stand-off
Grabbing attention

What exactly is at stake -- public morality, Islamic Shariah, writ of the state or an endless tale of illegal land grabbings? Jamia Hafsa resurfaces after a brief interlude...
 
By Noreen Haider
In the flier being widely distributed by the Lal Masjid administration, announcing the Nifaaz-e-Shariat-o-Azmat-e-Jihad Conference to be held in Lal Masjid Islamabad on April 7 as well as a three day Aitekaf invitation for students of all Madaris, the list of demands has changed dramatically.

A topical production
'Burqavaganza', a recent Ajoka production, attempted to comically tackle a social issue
 
By Sarwat Ali
First it was the scarf, now it is the veil. The refusal of some of the Muslim women in Britain especially of Pakistani and Indian heritage to unveil themselves has suddenly catapulted the veil or the burqa as a potent reminder of the clash of civilisations. This issue was handled comically in the recent Ajoka production 'Burqavaganza', written and directed by Shahid Mehmood Nadeem at the Alhamra, Lahore.

Lens of history
Work of F. E. Chaudhry, the grandfather of Pakistani photo-journalism, is archived by NCA, which held an exhibition to celebrate the man and his work
 
By Bilal Tanweer
If we go by Joseph Conrad's definition of art, wherein he referred to it as 'a single-minded attempt to render the highest kind of justice to the visible universe', then F. E. Chaudhry's work may appear paradoxical, for it fits and negates Conrad's claim at the same time.

Limits of Cubism
The recent solo exhibition of Mansur Rahi is a continuation of his lifelong romance with Cubism

By Quddus Mirza
Once asked what he was thinking while painting Cubist works, Pablo Picasso replied that while working, he and his fellow painter Georges Braque did not know that they were doing Cubist paintings. This statement, like many of his other comments, appears to be a joke, but it unfolds the process of art and reveals the mind of an artist. 

Dubai chalay
Dear all,
We recently had a brief stopover in Dubai, and I am still musing over the strange sense of unreality that the place inspires in me.
The shiny skyscrapers, broad streets, gliding flyovers, the sense of space yet congestion...It all reminds me of two TV shows from my childhood: the cityscape reminds me of the ambience of the city in the 'futuristic' cartoons 'The Jetsons', while the impersonality and strangeness of it makes me feel like Captain Kirk's team beaming down from the Starship Enterprise on to an unknown and orderly planet.

 

In the flier being widely distributed by the Lal Masjid administration, announcing the Nifaaz-e-Shariat-o-Azmat-e-Jihad Conference to be held in Lal Masjid Islamabad on April 7 as well as a three day Aitekaf invitation for students of all Madaris, the list of demands has changed dramatically.

The language of the announcement and the demands themselves speak volumes about the growing confidence of the Masjid administration in the movement it is all set to launch.

The list of the four demands reads as: Immediate reconstruction of the demolished mosques in Islamabad; immediate declaration of Islamic Shariat in Pakistan by the government; immediate promulgation of Quran and Sunnah in the courts of law and removal of the unIslamic clauses of the Women Protection Bill; immediate discontinuation to declaring Jihad as Terrorism by the government as it is the great sacred religious duty of Muslims.

The invitees have been given instructions to bring along books and printed material related to Jihad and their teachers told to consistently and emphatically stress on the urgent need of Jihad during their travel to the Lal Masjid. The flier asks them to come in large congregations and, if prevented at any point by the police, should stay in the nearest mosques, initiate their Aitekaf and do whatever they must to influence the local neighbourhood for the promulgation of Islamic Shariah in Pakistan and preparation for Jihad.

The flier also informs that the baton-holding madaris students have started their rounds in Islamabad markets and accelerated their movement against video shop owners. Many of the video shop owners have already agreed to closing down their shops for good, they claim.

Talking to TNS on the list of demands and how they have evolved into a student's movement Ghazi Abdur Rashid khatib Lal Masjid said: "Somebody had to do it.If the government has failed to cleanse the society then it's up to us. Vulgarity and obscenity is destroying the fabric of our society but nobody had the guts to get up and do something."

When asked if kidnapping women from the alleged brothel was justified, he said: "By all means. If the police was not doing anything, we decided to do it ourselves. This woman was running a brothel since 1992 and hundreds of people went there every day." The khatib of Lal Masjid, however, failed to answer why it took them fifteen years to take any reformative action against Auntie Shamim, owner of the brothel when -- at the reported rate -- thousands of people must have been affected from her evil doings.

When asked about the justification for encroachment, Rashid said: "According to the Islamic law of Haq Shufa (law of preemption) we had the first right to buy the land next to the mosque. When we wanted to buy it the Capital Development Authority (CDA) did not allow us so we had no choice but to grab it. It is our right." He did not give a satisfactory answer to how could a Haq Shufa or any such claim be made on a government-owned mosque which is the property of the Auqaf Department.

It is interesting to note that both the Khatibs Maulana Abdul Aziz and Ghazi Abdur Rashid were government employees in the mosque and they were both sacked by the government (Auqaf department to be precise) one and a half years ago. Going by rules, a government employee can not claim private ownership on a building owned by the government. Yet, in contrast, the suspended Imams of the Lal Masjid are not only adamant to possess the land, rather they are eager to extend its area by encroaching on the land owned by other government departments like the ministry of education

Madrasa Hafsa built adjacent to the Lal Masjid is still under construction. Not only is the land illegally grabbed, the building design too has not been approved by any authority. The present tiff started when the madrasa authorities started building the third and forth storey. The madrasa is one of its kind with more than a thousand girls living there as residents. The rest of the students are day-scholars. The madrasa has its own curricula and its own faculty largely drawn from the pool of old students.

The total area encroached in the name of Jamia Hafsa stands at 7439 sq yards -- out of which 3389 sq yards belong to Gymnasium plot, 450 sq yards belong to the Children Library, 400 sq yards belong to the Author's corner and 3200 sq yards belong to the CDA. According to a very conservative estimate, the total worth of the land encroached by the madrasa authorities is Rs 400 million.

Operating very much on its own, the madrasa administration is answerable to no authority. There is no audit of its accounts done by any of the government agencies. Ghazi Abdur Rashid told that they get upto Rs.10 million a month in funds from various sources for the madaris but he did not disclose the exact sources, saying it comes mainly through philanthropy. "We receive funds from people who give out of their own volition but we do not take conditional money. As a rule we decide how that money is going to be spent. We also have audits done but we cannot share its report," said Ghazi Abdur Rashid.

When asked about the government directive to sack the two brothers, Rashid said: "The government has no authority to sack us. We don't accept that. We are Ulema and not ordinary government employees." But how did they land in Lal Masjid in the first place if not as government employees? "Yes we were getting salaries and were government servants but still as khatibs of Lal Masjid we have extra powers and a very different status. They cannot fire us even if they want."

Ghazi Abdur Rashid also said they would be declaring the promulgation of Islamic Shariah in the country very soon.

It seems the initial demand of the rebuilding of the demolished mosques has clearly paled with the emergence of new demands. The situation is more like a standoff with the government -- with armed burqa-clad students standing in and around Lal Masjid. Clearly a test of nerves and strategic planning on the part of government which sees it as a delicate issue.

"They are using the female students as human shields and exploiting the name of Islam for their own vested interests. It is not difficult to carry out an operation for the demolition of the illegally built structure but we respect the presence of girls in the premises and do not want any harm to come to them," said I.G. police Iftikhar Chaudhry talking to TNS. 

"The Lal Masjid people are aware of the national and international political developments and are exploiting the situation. Everybody knows they are raising these demands because the government stopped the illegal construction of their madrasa," said Interior Minister Aftab Sherpao.

Other than Lal Masjid, Khatib Abdul Aziz is also running Madrasa Faridia in E/7 as well as 18 other madaris all built on encroached land in and around Islamabad, according to CDA member Estate Brig. Asad. These include, Jamia Saida Samia G-7/3, Madrasa Fatima I 9/4, Madrasa Umme-Kulsum Bara Kahu, Madrasa Ruqayya Banni Gala, Madrasa Qabtia Chak Shehzad, Madrasa Khatija, Madrasa Hajra, Madrasa Khola Golra for the women and Jamia Faridia E/7, Madrasa Zaid Bin Sabit Lal Masjid, Madrasa Saidna Umer Masjid Muzzamil, St 94 G/11-3, Madrasa RehmatullilAalamin Loi Bhair PWD Islamabad, Madrasa Usman Bin Affan, Madrasa Syedna Talha Bin Abdulla, Siri Chowk Bara Kahu, Madrasa Muaaz bin Jabal Bara Kahu, Madrasa Syedna Saddiq Akbar Bani Gala for boys. These and some of the other affiliated madaris are built on state owned land worth billions of rupees

The problem is not new and so is the phenomenon of land grabbing. It happened a long time before the present government assumed office. But it has certainly mutated to a point where we are seeing the emergence of powerful mafias in the premises of government-owned mosques who have declared themselves authorised to interpret and implement their brand of Shariah.

In the particular case of Lal Masjid, it is interesting to note that they have no support from the Wafaq-ul-Madaras or any other religious group in the country. They also have no support from political parties like Jamiat Ulemae Islam or Jamaat Islami.

All eyes are now waiting for the final verdict from the government side. Would it buckle under pressure or the writ of the state re-established remains to be seen.  

Capital developments

As per CDA records...

According to CDA records Lal Masjid is the oldest mosque built in Islamabad .The land for Lal Masjid was allotted some time in the 1960s and it was a 260'x 260' plot which is 8377.78 sq yards. The mosque was constructed by CDA. The construction was funded by the Finance Ministry and the mosque belongs to the Auqaf Department. The Imam and Moazzan quarters were further added in 1979. The Imam quarters are built on 400 yards and the Moazzan quarters were built on 111 yards. (Late) Maulana Abdullah was appointed the first Imam of Lal Masjid.

In August 1981 on the directive of President Zia-ul-Haq No 833, PC-I a grand restructuring of the Lal Masjid was done at the cost of Rs 7.255 million. General Zia was greatly interested in the expansion and renovation of the mosque so that large congregations could be held there until such time that the Faisal Mosque was ready. Funding was provided to the mosque in 1982 and again in 1984 for further renovation.

On December 12, 1988 an area of 15'x 40' (66.67 sq yards) was allotted for the Girls' Madrasa by the government. On the recommendation of the the Auqaf department additional area of 25'x50' was given for the madrasa in May 1994. The total allotted area of the Lal Masjid to date is 9094.45 sq yards which is 1.88 acres.

But in March 2001 the madrasa started encroaching on a 3389 sq yards plot adjacent to the mosque which was already allotted and earmarked for a Gymnasium. Several verbal notices were issued to the madrasa authorities and the khatib of Lal Masjid but to no avail. The first written notice was issued to them in 2002 which again failed to produce any result. In 2004 further encroachments were made and the 450 sq yards of plot allotted to Ministry of Education for the building of a public library was occupied by the madrasa. Another notice was served by CDA on 9-12-2004 but to no avail. As the inevitable next option an operation was planned by the CDA for the demolition of the illegally built building but they failed to do so because the ICT did not provide them with adequate police force.

Further notices were issues in Dec 2005, April 2006, and January 2007 without producing any results.

Capital Development Authority Ordinance 1960, clause 49C says: "If any building, structure, work or land is erected or constructed in contravention of the provisions of this ordinance or any rules, regulation or order the DC or any person empowered on his behalf may by order in writing, require the owner, occupier or person in control to remove, alter or demolish the building."

Responding to a question as to why did the CDA authorities fail to demolish the illegally constructed structure when it was under construction, CDA member Estate Brig Asad said: "At that time administration's anti-encroachment [wing] had only 25 people. There were no weapons, no equipment and no way to carry out an operation without the help of ICT (Islamabad Capital territory) chief commissioner and IG Islamabad. They provide the necessary support through the magistrate and police for any demolition operation.

"Because of the fact that this particular madrasa has female students the authorities were always apprehensive of taking any extreme action against them. The madrasa authorities exploited this situation to the maximum. An operation was planned for 9-12-2004, the CDA authorities were ready for it but the necessary backup was not there so it was called off."

-- N. Haider

First it was the scarf, now it is the veil. The refusal of some of the Muslim women in Britain especially of Pakistani and Indian heritage to unveil themselves has suddenly catapulted the veil or the burqa as a potent reminder of the clash of civilisations. This issue was handled comically in the recent Ajoka production 'Burqavaganza', written and directed by Shahid Mehmood Nadeem at the Alhamra, Lahore.

To veil and protect the women -- your women -- was one of the fundamentals of the civilised, especially those living in the heartland of Indian Muslims i.e. Awadh, Delhi, Punjab, Rajasthan, Madhiya Pradesh, Hyderabad Deccan. But with the onset of colonial rule it was seen to be a cultural practice meant to keep the women away from the man's world, and hence in the modern context perceived as a retrogressive cultural practice. There has been unease and a sense of guilt about all this among the male dominated society at large and many other forms and styles of covering the body -- the scarf, the chaddar, an abridged burqa and long coat have been consistently experimented with to assuage that guilt.

This obvious indicator of modernisation was stopped in its track by the crisis of identity, which the Muslims faced all over the world. The clash of civilisations paradigm pitted them against the West and the limited consensus arrived at in response to contemporary challenges is being eroded in the wake of questions of identity. The Iranians had done that in their own country 28 years ago, but when the women living in Britain started to assert their cultural identity multiculturalism started being stretched to the limits.

This has been a contentious issue and it seemed to have been laid to rest with the women working side by side with men but due to the changes in the world political scenario this has again become a live issue and obvious yielding itself to satire dipped in acid by writers, painters, musicians and dramatists.

Ajoka has staged plays which have been topical and thus have had the leverage of drawing a quick response from the audience. The topicality of the issue establishes a bond between the play and the audience. All the characters in the play were veiled, they appeared in a burqa. The plot was thin but it was made colourful and effusive by the singing and dancing as well as the use of the multimedia facilities like video clippings on screen. Actually the play was in the form of skits, strung together by a vague storyline, or a hint of a storyline, and it seemed that the storyline pointed towards some sinister plot that was working under cover to disrupt the social order or to push society towards an obscurantist end.

In the last scene of the play when all the hooded or veiled or 'burqaed' characters appeared on stage and began to dance, throwing off their veils to reveal their masks of well-known  national and international figures, it pointed to some conspiratorial underpinning. It took some of the fun away from the play because the situations within the paradigm were quite hilarious and the butt of much lampooning and slapstick. The play should have rested at that and the effort to bind it a serious purpose looked a little limp. 

Such issues like the purdah have enough gun powder to blow off a citadel. And the motives for the debate and the sides which are taken in the debate and conflict are not engineered from abroad or the strings are not being pulled from the outside but the explosions lie barely hidden, tucked away in a corner.

This issue which was basically a social one has now become political with the assertion that one has witnessed in Islamabad. And internationally it is causing disruption within western societies, the cringing of which is affecting the general relationship with the West. At one level it is an act of courage to tackle such issues and one knows that Ajoka has never shied away for the fear of conflict. The video clippings were hilarious and added variety to the production while most of the  songs , some even sung live were parodies and some sung in such a manner that they appeared incongruous to their original intent. Usually one has been critical of the quality of singing and musical input of the plays in the past but in this production as the purpose of the singing was to stretch the net of irony it served its purpose adequately. The cast of the play consisted of Sarfaraz Ansari, Iqbal Naqvi, Imranul Haq, Nosheen Sheikh, Raza Abbas, Khola Qureshi, Asif Japani, Azaan Malik, Usman Zia, Shahzad, Yaqoob Masih, Nadeem Abbas, Waseem Luka, Meena, Razia Malik and Vicky.

Though many of the members of Ajoka have been associated with the group for years, the necessity to build up a second level of performers and theatre skilled personnel cannot be over emphasised. Recently Ajoka Women Day presentation of plays, short plays, skits -- call it what you may, were handled by the second string and the outcome was rather indifferent. The advantages of having greater depth of initiated talent in the field is essential. Some of the persons like Sarfaraz Ansari and Malik Aslam who have consistently worked for the theatre group should be adequately prepared to handle both the creative and the managerial sides.

In the last 20 odd years Ajoka has mothered theatre and many a split in the family have subsequently resulted in more groups being formed. The consistency is quite commendable. The key word can be no other than keep at it.


Lens of history

If we go by Joseph Conrad's definition of art, wherein he referred to it as 'a single-minded attempt to render the highest kind of justice to the visible universe', then F. E. Chaudhry's work may appear paradoxical, for it fits and negates Conrad's claim at the same time.

I say this because of the possible levels of interpretation of Chaudhry's work. At the most banal, it is photo-journalism from basics to its best: images are starkly clear in what they convey without a hint of ambiguity in the image, stating the meaning and the message unmistakably. At the same time, they are aesthetically qualified: the proportions, subjects and light, all find their balance in Chaudhry's camera, and in all the photos exhibited, there was no uncertainty about who was the subject and for what reason.

Broadly speaking, Chaudhry's work which was exhibited at NCA gallery last week could be divided into two crude categories. One is the official and political photography, wherein Chaudhry captures the political history of Pakistan through images. Scenes from the Muslim League meetings and conferences were the highlight of this category. What was especially noteworthy was a clear tilt towards the overwhelming presence of Jinnah's photos at various occasions ranging from casual tea parties, playing golf and billiards, to his addresses to huge gatherings. This was a choice of the exhibitionists and not a preference, says Nadeem Omar who was one of the people who were instrumental in getting F. E. Chaudhry's work to the NCA archives. "I don't think there is any particular slant in his photography. Jinnah's was his first picture, and partition happened during his early career. [When archiving] we had categorised his photographs into several categories, from photojournalism on different political subjects to the visual chronology of Pakistan Times -- including Faiz's imprisonment and release photos."

If this is true, then the exhibition was a rather inappropriate representation of his work, because judging by the exhibition itself, the purview of Chaudhry's subjects does not seem to go beyond Jinnah, Bhutto and Lahore -- and hence, fail to do 'the highest justice to the visible world.'

However, the other category was of 'some wonderful exceptions.' These were the ordinary subjects of Chaudhry's photos: scenes from cockfights, ceramics pottery, straw-cap weavers, cloth market, and evening view of the Government College Lahore. These were done in the trademark clarity visible in the previous works, but they were also fused with a sense of compassion and humanity, and moreover, they were aesthetically pleasing. Indeed, it is no mean achievement, in any form of art, to render the ordinary as extraordinary which holds one's attention and arouses a sense of wonder. Indeed, it was here where Chaudhry seemed to fulfil Conrad's criterion.

One of the most fascinating dimensions of Chaudhry's work is the time they span. His work is a photo-history of Pakistan starting from the Pakistan movement itself. His first snapped photo of Jinnah dates back to 1936, where Quaid stands addressing a gathering a Muslim League gathering; he then weaves important historical moments in turns of his camera roll: the migration of 1947, protesting Hindus against the creation of Pakistan, scenes from the Walton refugee camp, 1958 flood, last photo of Z.A. Bhutto before execution, etc. Curiously, there were no photographs after the 1980s (except for one where Chaudhry is receiving a Pride of Performance award from Zia ul Haq, dated 1987); this marked absence also seemed to be a rather strange preference by the exhibitionists.

As for F. E. Chaudhry the man, he is considered a living legend for many reasons other than his contribution to photo-journalism in Pakistan. He stands at 98 now with a working memory, and according to Nadeem Omar, "he has managed to get himself acknowledged by the state, despite being a Christian he was able to survive vicissitudes of political drama... His artistic endeavours are worthy enough to fetch a prize in any international photography fair, which as you may know, he actually managed to get, even quite earlier on in his career."

As an appendix, one must mention the valuable step taken by the National College of Arts for archiving F. E. Chaudhry's work. They have done it meticulously and quite wonderfully. Even the larger prints at the exhibition were well-produced. However, it is not a recommended exercise for an ordinary person to access those archives; but that is a different story altogether.


Limits of Cubism

The recent solo exhibition of Mansur Rahi is a continuation of his lifelong romance with Cubism

By Quddus Mirza

Once asked what he was thinking while painting Cubist works, Pablo Picasso replied that while working, he and his fellow painter Georges Braque did not know that they were doing Cubist paintings. This statement, like many of his other comments, appears to be a joke, but it unfolds the process of art and reveals the mind of an artist. When a creative person is on the verge of inventing or doing something new, in most cases he is not aware of its uniqueness, and it is only afterwards (and in most cases by the critics) that the newness of his creative outputs is realised.

It also implies that if an artist decides to discover a new style or way of working, it is not a natural phenomenon, but often an imposed quest. On the other hand, sometimes the new movements and schools of thought emerge without prior planning and normally these are discovered after a certain time has passed. However in our art scene, many artists assume a style and start producing works under that specific technique of image-making. In that respect their artistic production is not a process of creative inquiry, but merely a means of acquiring some distinct method.

This approach can be well observed in the recent works of Mansur Rahi, shown in his solo exhibition at Native Art Gallery, Lahore. The exhibition (inaugurated on March 27, 2007 and held for a week) comprised of his oil paintings and charcoal drawings. Most of his works were based upon human bodies, along with a few small surfaces with bulls and heads of charging horses. All of these images were drawn in the Cubist scheme, with parts of figures dissected into simple geometric shapes.

Rahi's romance with Cubism is not new; in fact its presence can be traced in his previous works -- since the 1970s (to be precise). Earlier, cubist forms and circular lines were used to construct lyrical surfaces in subtle colours and delicate shades. In those paintings, one could glimpse a recognisable imagery, but it was subdued and merged with the background through textures and tones. The artist, being trained in the Bengali tradition of watercolours, utilised the experience of water colour painting in order to build his oil canvases with layers of transparent colours and sharply defined lines.

What he created and continued for years is now emerging as a sad scenario. The earlier surfaces with the painterly sensibilities are substituted with works about female figures and faces. In his latest paintings, the artist has focused on representing some kind of mythological characters with odd proportions. The human bodies were drawn through a network of lines and blocks in a distorted manner. Yet this distortion was meant to communicate the strength of the figures and to convey beauty of the limbs. At the same instance in several works, female (and some male too) faces were painted (in intersecting geometric shapes and lines), enhancing their beauty and bestowing them an importance by adding crowns and jewellery.

In these works, human rather female body was depicted with strong muscles, stretched due to the moving postures. Along with their exaggerated contours, a number of those women were accompanied by tiny birds. Those birds were perched on the hands of faceless, yet fully formed female figures. Looking at the motif of woman and bird in Rahi's work, one could not help recalling the fascination of our painters with female and bird. Probably it all began with Shakir Ali's work (if not inspired from the Rajput and Pehari miniatures!) in which nude women were painted with birds. The combination of birds and women has continued in our art. It appears that this subject or set of imagery is quite popular among the painters, viewers and collectors.

There can be many reasons for the success of this theme, but probably for a painter, putting a bird next to female figure is an attempt to induce some depth in an ordinary academic figure study.But on the other hand, some artists -- actually the initial explorers of this subject -- tried to locate the element of beauty in both, the bird and nude. For them bird, besides being a sign of freedom, was also a symbol of the man (the artist).

However, the art has a strange tendency to predict the future, without any planning on the part of painters. Thus the earlier makers of woman and bird, in an unconscious way, foresaw the later situation of women in our society. Mainly because, the way the concept of cage is associated with the bird; the Islamic Republic became known for restricting her female population. Thus one could read an analogy between bird and woman, as both were put behind bars.

But the recent works of Mansur Rahi or other perpetrators of bird-woman theme do not suggest this kind of interpretation. For these painters the beauty of female form is best suited with a bird, since the two can be painted in inexhaustible numbers for aesthetic purposes. This frame of mind was evident in his show, in which two works with identical objects and same composition were rendered in two different hues. It not only implied that the subject matter was chosen as a decorative element, but that the artist's attitude was not dissimilar to a fabric designer, who prepares a pattern in its multiple colour variations.

A stage in the history of art that altered the course of European painting and introduced multiple views in a single work now has been reduced to merely a formula for our painter. And naturally, once the intellectual content is not needed, the geometric shapes and distortion of forms serve to concoct typical art pieces. An activity that Rahi proudly pronounces as Cubical fractionism, Analytic Cubism, Cubical rayonistic formalism, Neo-cubo-precisionism and Neo-cubical Romanticism in the catalogue of his exhibition. Terms that are pompous, pretentious and do not mean much yet signify the limits of Cubism -- both for Picasso, who abandoned it after some years, and for our painter, who has taken it for its surface value, if it has a value anymore.

 


Dubai chalay

Dear all,

We recently had a brief stopover in Dubai, and I am still musing over the strange sense of unreality that the place inspires in me.

The shiny skyscrapers, broad streets, gliding flyovers, the sense of space yet congestion...It all reminds me of two TV shows from my childhood: the cityscape reminds me of the ambience of the city in the 'futuristic' cartoons 'The Jetsons', while the impersonality and strangeness of it makes me feel like Captain Kirk's team beaming down from the Starship Enterprise on to an unknown and orderly planet.

Everything looks clean and shiny but the number of vehicles on the road is a little daunting. Just getting out of the airport seems to take ages and then along the broad motorways you have time to gape in wonder at the high-rise landscape.

Many of the beautiful hotels combine traditional architectural elements with modern design to create a sense of identity and history. But despite this the place reminds me of another beautiful and fake place -- Sun City in South Africa. Sun City is a spectacularly beautiful place but its architecture evokes all sorts of histories (Roman, Mayan, African, generic ancient) that never existed there! In Dubai, they have recreated a clean and sanitised version of a souk (bazaar), which seems a contradiction in terms anyway! The shiny, clean and tourist oriented facade just adds to the sense of unreality and the impersonal air of the place.

This is the desert city that has an indoor ski slope and the world's largest water park and which will soon have an adventure park (Dubai Land) 'larger than Singapore'... which is all amazing but it does make you feel as if you have stepped into a theme park rather than a city with people, history and character...

I suppose with all its efficiency, Dubai is aiming to be like what Beirut was in the 1960s when it was known as 'the Paris of the Middle East'. With all the investment and tourism the place seems to be booming, but I still find it somewhat surreal. Human Rights Watch has documented the human cost at which the high rises are going up, where the labour (mostly from South Asian countries) is not given proper medical care or compensation, and often not paid as promised, but we rarely think of this as we use the glossy facilities of the city.

On our way to the airport to fly out, we were caught in the evening rush hour traffic. That is also the time when most of the construction labourers are bussed home. My young daughter saw a group of them lining up to board their bus and was astonished by the sight of these scrawny men in a long queue who, rather ironically were wearing orange jumpsuits. Since her only point of reference was Guantanamo Bay prisoners in orange jumpsuits, she exclaimed in confusion, "who are those people, are they prisoners?". Anyhow, we almost missed our flight because of that traffic jam for more than two hours. And that was when I really kept wishing that I could just call the Enterprise and tell Scottie to 'beam us up.'

 

Best Wishes

Umber Khairi

 

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