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forgotten city Ehteram-e-Ramazan
Ordinance: an obligation? Sightless,
but not visionless
forgotten Life for 25-year-old Dileep Singh, an upper caste Hindu, belonging to the village Ranahoo in Achhro Thar (white desert), Sanghar district is extremely tough. However, it becomes even tougher when one cannot find a source of livelihood in his village. By Shujauddin Qureshi Singh has the option
to go to a city for finding a job, but then he would have to leave his
family Achhro Thar in Khipro Taluka (Tehsil) is actually a part of the grand Thar Desert, spread along the eastern border with India in the Sindh and Punjab province. It includes districts of Sindh like Tharparkar, Omerkot, Sanghar, Khairpur and goes up to Cholistan and Bhawalpur districts of Punjab. This part of the
desert got the name, Achhro Thar because of its lose white sand. Achhro
Thar is The total area of the taulka Khipro is 5,856 sq km (1,446,969 acres), out of which the desert is spread over 4,508 sq kms (11,13,860 acres). According to the 1998 census, the population of Thar desert was 41,483 (22,059 males and 19,424 females) and its population density stands at 9.2 persons/sq km, much less than the population density of 216 persons/sq. km in the rest of the province of Sindh. There are 145 villages in Achhro Thar with approximately about 9,000 houses. Almost all the
villages are devoid of basic facilities like potable water, health,
education and The same situation prevails in Ranahoo, which is a 150 year old village, mostly comprising Thakur and Menghwar castes of Hinduism. A beautiful temple with the statue of Kali Mata is built by the villagers there. Despite belonging to the upper caste, most of the people in this remote village reside in poverty. They do not have any other source of income except for livestock. No upper caste Hindu usually migrates even during the time of drought. So, Dileep Singh spends his entire day in his village, while looking after his goats. In his spare time, he, along with his other friends, does some social welfare work. They have formed a Village Development Organisation (VDO) with the help of a prominent support organisation, Sindh Agricultural and Forestry Workers Coordinating Organisation (SAFWCO). About 66 km away from the Khipro town, Ranahoo village does not have an infrastructure, health facility, and higher educational facilities. There's only one primary school there with a single teacher. Some boys of the village have got higher education, although girls cannot continue their further education after passing their primary classes. Like the rest of the desert, drinking water was the main problem faced by the villagers. Although a well and hand pump were available in the village, however both of these water sources were insufficient for the entire population of 350 people of the village. The water quality of the well was brackish, so females of the village had to walk about two kilometres to fetch drinking water. The VDO approached SAFWCO office in Khipro for the water issue. Luckily, funds were available from donors like Pakistan Poverty Alleviation Fund (PPAF) and United State Agriculture Department (USDA), therefore Safwco has installed a windmill for drawing ground water. The water now available is of drinkable quality that people from neighbouring villages use as well. Not only human beings, but animals of the village and surrounding areas are also drinking water from the ponds, especially set up for this purpose. As the wind speed is high in the desert, therefore it has been providing water round the clock. Even though 18 windmills have been installed in different villages of the desert, this alternate energy source is still insufficient for the entire population. "Only the government has the resources to fund these schemes in the entire desert. No NGO has the resources to provide facilities to all," said Altaf Mahesar, in charge of the Safwco office in Khipro. Besides working in Achhro Thar, Safwco is also working in other parts of the Sanghar district and other areas like Thano Bulan Khan, Badin, Matiari, Mirpur Khas, Omerkot Nawabshah and Hyderabad. Other NGOs are also working in the desert, but they are mainly addressing the education and health sectors. Mahesar said SAFWCO for the first time, has introduced the latest technology of wind mills and drip irrigation system in some villages from the funds provided by PPAF. "We have provided alternate solutions of the problems to the government, now it is up to the public representatives to include such types of innovative schemes in their development budget," added Mehaser. The pattern of settlements in Achhro Thar is different from the barrage irrigated area, as the Hindus live in separate villages. Houses in Achhro Thar are formed in a typical desert style, made up of thatches and wood. They are round in shape with mud foundation and are hardly sufficient for two to three persons. Because of high temperatures in the desert, these houses are very comfortable inside, they resist strong winds and there is no leakage of water during the rains. These types of houses are often built on top of the settled sand dunes otherwise, they may collapse if sand shifts due to winds. There is no other employment opportunity for people in the desert, except for rearing livestock. People keep goats in a large number, but other cattle like cows and sheep are raised and sold for purchasing food and other essential items. The communication revolution has also provided some relief to the people in the form of Wireless Local Loop (WLL) phones, which are used in the villages mostly for emergencies. Achhro Thar is quite isolated as compared to the other barrage irrigated areas of Sanghar district. Due to the lack of infrastructure, people have no access to other modern modes of communication like newspapers, electronic channels and the Internet. A few people can buy newspapers published in Sindhi language from Khipro town when they visit it for their personal work or buying food items. Several villages in the desert have no access to electricity either so only some people have access to radios to keep themselves updated with news and politics. BBC is the favourite channel for those who own radios. Thar is spread over 4,508 sq. kms but due to the lack of metal roads, the transport system is non-functional and camels are still the prominent mode of traveling. Only a few single-cabin four-wheel pickups can be observed, used for the transportation of people and goods. The fares of transport are very high and unaffordable for the poor masses. The increase in petroleum prices have hit hard to the poor Tharis, forcing them to travel by foot or use the "ship of desert." Their social development is hampered by the high cost of transport. In the case of an emergency, women or children cannot be taken to hospitals immediately, which often causes unnatural deaths or further complications. Even though the over all condition of women in the entire rural Sindh is deplorable, the situation in the desert is even worse. Females have no access to their basic needs including primary health. Literacy rate among them is very low. They not only perform all household chores, but go to far flung areas for fetching water. And in the evening, they are expected to look after their livestock. Compared to other parts of the Sindh province, people in Achhro Thar reside in peace. Rarely, conflicts in intra or inter community arise. No robbery cases are ever reported in the area. If a conflict takes place, the local community heads sit together and resolve the issue without resorting to violence or involving legal processes. Most of the inhabitants are the followers of Pir Pagaro, who has established a very effective governance system, which not only provides spiritual uplift to the followers, but also ensures peace. In return, the followers have to pay some donations on a regular basis to the chief associates of the area appointed by Pir Sahib. This is the reason why the people vote for the candidates of the National Assembly, Sindh Assembly or local bodies, belonging to the political party of their spiritual leader. No other political party has been able to obtain votes from this area in the previous elections. A small number of followers of Makhdoom Shah Mehmood Qureshi of Multan and Makhdooms of Hala also live in Achhro Thar. However, inspite of the poverty and limited resources in Achhro Thar, the people are very peaceful and appear content. But they cannot be neglected foreover; the government needs to uplift the living standards of these deprived people. Dr Hathi Singh: A messiah in the desert Dr Hathi Singh is the only qualified doctor in Achhro Thar desert. Relinquishing the comforts of big cities, Dr Singh not only runs a medical centre, established by a non-government organization, Sindh Agricultural and Forestry Workers Coordinating Organization (SAFWCO), but provides medical facilities to over a dozen surrounding villages in the desert. He does this without any compulsion and says he finds solace in serving people of his area. When SAFWCO started its development activities in Achhro Thar way back in 2003, the organization's volunteers found Dr Hathi Singh practicing in a private clinic set up in a single-room hut of his village, Rablahoo, about 60 kilometers away from Khipro town in the desert. Khipro is Taluka (tehsil) headquarter of Sanghar district. Access to this remote village is very difficult as no link road or public transport is available. Only a pick-up runs once a day to transport people and goods from various villages in the desert. Some people still use camels for transportation in this part of the desert. Located between unsettled dunes, the village Rablahoo comprises about 30 cone-shaped thatched houses. All of them belong to upper-caste Hindus. But this distinguishing feature does not make them any superior as most of them are living in abject poverty without any basic facilities. Thirsty of potable water, most of the people are unemployed and do not have any other source of income except for their livestock. When the NGO decided to extend its medical services for the people of Achhro Thar desert, they hired Dr Singh for his services. Initially, commuting was a problem for the doctor as well so he was provided with a camel by the NGO. "Dr. Hathi (meaning elephant) now rides over a camel to provide medical health facilities to the people of surrounding villages in far flung areas of the desert," laughs Suleman Abro, the CEO of SAFWCO. Unlike most NGOs, SAFWCO continues to run its medical health center through its own resources after the donor-assisted project ended. Working as a Field Medical Officer, Dr Singh says he is content with providing services to his people. Since he is married to his relative, a village woman, his family is not demanding either. Dr Singh has two young sons. He says he was fortunate to have acquired intensive medical education on merit as his poor family could not afford to bear the expenses of his education. Dr Singh received his primary and secondary education from a school in a nearby village. "Later, one of my relatives, Saroop Singh, who was an advocate, offered me the financial and moral support to acquire higher education. He offered me to live with his family in Hyderabad as well." Based on his merit, the hardworking student later got an admission at one of prestigious medical colleges of interior of Sindh, Liaquat Medical College, Jamshoro. Besides providing medical treatment to the ailing community, he also conducts Participatory Community Health Dialogues in nearby villages, provides family planning services and coordinates vaccination campaigns of the government. He also provides health education and basic hygiene lessons in schools. The common diseases treated at his medical centre included throat and stomach infections, anemia, Malaria, Peptic Ulcer, Dysentery, cough, influenza, hypertension, skin and eye infections. However, lack of paramedical staff is a major handicap for the doctor. Although some community health workers or Lady Health Visitors (LHVs) and TBAs (Traditional Birth Attendants) are available in different villages, there is no qualified female nurse. In such a case, being a male doctor is disadvantageous as women in the village are hesitant to receive treatment for gynecological problems. Dr Singh is then dependent on LHVs and TBAs in the vicinity for help with obstetric emergencies. But despite the obstacles and a meager remuneration from the NGO, Dr Singh says "he is content with his life" with a sense of fulfillment apparent on his face. - SQ Life in the fast lane By Urooba Rasool There is a breed of drivers in Karachi who can be
spotted peering down their noses at lesser beings. We at the leading edge of investigative journalism have not given the CNG rickshaw driver the coverage he deserves. It must be said, however, that such an oversight has made the slightest difference to his self esteem. This is because as anyone in the habit of using public transport knows, the only thing more luxurious than a CNG rickshaw is an Airbus A380. The CNG rickshaw has many qualities that make potential passengers swoon over it and smirk at pedestrians as they go sailing past in one. CNG rickshaws have wide legroom. They have squishy sofas. Some even have doors and little plastic windows that slide shut. In rickshaw world, this is the equivalent the back portion of a Khyber turning into a hotel suite. Normal, diesel-run rickshaws, on the other hand, are deficient in the squishy sofa/door/window department, and come equipped with a skeleton-rattling metal bar wedged along your spinal cord in uncannily the manner required for you to lose all feeling in your legs for the next three days. 'We are Better Than You and More Sophisticated Than You,' is what people who claim to be adept at reading faces have said of the CNG rickshaw driver. One of these adept face-readers is the normal rickshaw driver. If you think he has failed to notice these shiny new vehicles, you are mistaken. If, hypothetically, you wind up inside a normal rickshaw and encounter a CNG rickshaw illegally venturing down the opposite end of the road, the normal rickshaw driver will scowl at it. "Hmph. Look at him, thinks the police won't trouble him just because he drives a CNG rickshaw," he will say darkly, because, as everyone knows, never in his life would he ever dream driving the wrong way on the street. It is unfortunate that normal rickshaw drivers feel this way, because they tend to take out all this bitterness on unsuspecting customers. You: I need to go X road. You would need to turn right from Y signal. Rickshaw driver (frowning): Hmmm. Are you sure you want to go there? You (teeth gritted): Yeeeeees. Rickshaw driver: Oh, all right then. But I won't turn right – I want to go on straight ahead. And after charging you an obscene amount of money, that is exactly what he will do. 'Customer satisfaction' is not a course stressed upon in Rickshaw Driver School. Of course, if you put yourself in the rickshaw driver's shoes, you will find that the world is a very disagreeable place that has no room for things like customer satisfaction. He has to avoid being flattened on by buses a thousand times bigger than his tiny little rickshaw. He has to dodge spit balls from the drivers of these buses. He cannot beat the rates being offered by these horrible drivers, which are still infinitely more attractive despite inflation. He has irritating passengers who wail in anguish when they're inside his vehicle and see an empty CNG rickshaw strut past. These are the same people who say silly thing like "But we are entitled to a student discount." (What is a "discount" anyway?) He needs to make money, so his eyes light up when he sees a naive, unassuming-looking person emerging from the gates of A Certain University, backpack slung over shoulders, asking meekly to be taken home. He is only human, all he wants is more cash, so slipping on his Oscar-winning face, he solemnly tells her the rates change at night, and asks for more than double the amount she was willing to pay. She refuses to believe him, and huffs and stalks off, only to board a CNG rickshaw a few metres away. It is all terribly unfair. Just because another rickshaw is shinier and has nicer upholstery, it can get away with all sorts of things, including hefty charges that passengers otherwise rudely laugh at. So if you can, try to spare a thought for him as you rub the feeling back in your legs from your squishy sofa in your CNG rickshaw. citycalling This Ramazan, look out and lock up Most people assume that crime declines during the Holy month of Ramazan, but law-enforcers have a different story to tell. By Sabeen Jamil City administrators
say that those who want to enjoy this Ramazan should lock their vehicles
at all Over the past few years during Ramazan, there have been increased incidents of mobile phone snatching, vehicle theft – two wheelers in particular – and scuffles breaking out between frustrated drivers on jammed roads minutes before Iftar. According to data maintained by the office of SSP Investigations South, each year, the Ramazan crime rate is higher than the previous year. For example, there were almost double the number of vehicles and mobile phones stolen in Ramazan in 2007 than in Ramazan in 2006. Statistics say that, during the first half of Ramazan in September 2006, a total of 500 cars were reported stolen. By contrast, only 410 cars were reported stolen in all of July and 393 in all of August. The number of mobile phones and motorbikes stolen during that Ramazan remained average, with 672 motorbikes and 3710 mobile phones reported stolen or snatched. However, the following Ramazan, the numbers of mobile phones and motorbikes snatched or stolen increased. A total of 4949 mobiles and 1227 motorbikes were reported snatched or stolen. This figure was not only higher than the previous Ramazan, but also higher than other months of the year. Just a month before Ramazan started, for example, 919 motor bikes were stolen. During the same period, 423 cars were reported, a figure which rose by 130 during Ramazan. Police sources believe that the reason for this hike in crime during Ramazan is because there are more opportunities for potential burglars. "People don't lock their motorbikes," says SSP Investigation Officer Niaz Ahmed Khoso. He points out that generally just before Iftar, people rush towards the pakora wallas or samosa wallas without locking their cars or motorbikes, providing a golden opportunity for anyone wishing to steal them. "Motorbike theft also increases because of 'joy riders'," adds Khoso. According to him, youngsters often snatch or steal motorbikes for a ride on the eve of Eid, and sell the spare parts afterwards. The motorbikes they steal are either randomly parked somewhere just before Iftar, or outside mosques during taraweeh, where they are left unattended for hours. Khoso says that for the past two Ramazans, Gulshan-e-Iqbal and Sadar have been the "hot areas" for such crimes. "There are some 300 mosques where hundred of people come for taraweeh in this area alone," he says. A police officer from a local police station gives his own reasons for the crime rate being higher in Ramazan, beginning with "It is very easy to steal a mobile phone during Ramazan." He says that the reported mobile thefts are common around shopping centres and food stalls just before Iftar, where it is easy to slip a mobile phone out of someone's pocket without being noticed. "People don't realise it in crowded places where everyone is in a hurry," he says. He suggests that to avoid such thefts, mobile phones be kept in the front pocket, and that people should avoid thronging by drivers fighting on streets during traffic jams. Deputy Inspector General Traffic Wajid Durrani has appealed to people to refrain from loitering on the streets during Ramazan to aid the flow of traffic. Traffic police have identified 106 intersections prone to traffic jams during Ramazan, especially at the time of Iftar. Durrani says that four or five traffic constables will be deployed at these intersections, but adds that there can be no free flow of traffic without the cooperation of the citizens. City administrators hope that with extra police forces patrolling the streets and preventive measures taken by the citizens themselves, the crime rate during this Ramazan can be controlled.
Ehteram-e-Ramazan Ordinance: an obligation? As Ramazan draws
nearer, it will not just be a trying time for those who fast but the
non-fasters are As eating and drinking in public places is considered illegal under the said ordinance to maintain the sanctity of the holy month, many argue that the mere presence of such a law defies the purpose of the sacred month during which a person observing the fast is expected to be more tolerant as they carry on with their routine lives. Under the said law, those who do not abstain from eating or drinking in public places during Ramazan are fined for the offence. Although not very stringent, police officials use the ordinance to harass individuals, mostly gutka and niswar addicts in the lower-income neighbourhood of Karachi, as a means to earn 'extra money' during the month. A police official stationed near the Arts Council roundabout, when questioned, denied the allegation further clarifying that "it is imperative to do so for maintenance of sanctity of the Holy month." However, interestingly, no formal case has been registered with the CPLC (Citizen's Police Liaison Committee) under the said ordinance in the past few years, Kolachi learnt. "We did not receive any complaint against someone for violating the Ramazan Ordinance last year. There is no formal FIR lodged. The violators possibly get away with paying a small fine to the local police for the offence," an official informed. He added that the law is implemented strictly only during dictatorial regimes and the situation was worse during General Zia's era. At the time, under the ordinance, the offence was also punishable with imprisonment for maximum three months with a possible fine of Rs500. During a survey conducted by Kolachi, mixed responses were received on the presence of such an ordinance. "I don't understand why fasting should be a matter between the individual and the state, while prayers - which is an equally important and obligatory pillar of Islam - be regarded as a personal issue of the individual," remarks a university student Shumaila Tariq, criticising the presence of such an ordinance. She argues that opening of restaurants in Ramazan to cater to the needs of those Muslims who do not fast, Non-Muslims and foreigners living or visiting the city should not be considered 'illegal' per se. "During the Holy month, people in general would respect and care for those who are fasting without the state having to instruct them to do so," she adds. Although trends are gradually changing with some restaurants and bakeries running their businesses in the quiet hours of the day in certain posh localities of the city during Ramazan, by and large the restaurant industry suffers a loss at this time of the year. Most eateries then extend their opening hours at night to make up for the loss incurred during the day. "You see we have no choice. Even if we do have customers during the day, we fear we may be fined for hurting the sentiments of those who fast during the month," says the operations manager of a leading coffee house in Zamzama. Moreover, to avoid attracting the attention of law enforcement authorities, most fast-food outlets across the city usually run their businesses through delivery services only. "The implementation may not be as strict, but you may never know so we chose to remain closed throughout the month," says Waqas, son of the owner of Golden Fork Restaurant on I.I Chundrigar Road that only serves customers for lunch. Canteens of most workplaces located on the road remain closed during the month as well. While restaurants struggle to minimise their losses in the coming month, one can only hope the law enforcement officers and people in general to go easy on those who do not fast instead of taking offence. After all, the Holy month teaches one to be more tolerant of other's needs. By Aroosa Masroor
Smartly dressed with
glasses perched on his nose and a watch strapped around his wrist, it is
difficult Seventy-two-year-old Abdullah Haji Mohammad, former vice-president of the Karachi Chamber of Commerce and Industry (KCCI), lost his sight completely 12 years ago. His life has changed drastically, but he has not let this affect his spirit. Today, he practises astrology, which came to him as an inspiration from a friend. He is committed to cultivating an optimistic attitude in people. "Being blind at birth is better than losing your sight later in life," he says. "If you had not seen this beautiful world, you would not know what you are missing." Mohammad is visually impaired because he inherited a disease called Retinitis Pigmentos. It was a gradual process, one for which he had been preparing since he was diagnosed in 1959. There is no cure. Still, he has had a full and vibrant life. All his children - two daughters and two sons - are well settled abroad. During his 30-year career at the KCCI, as a fine public speaker Abdullah Mohammad headed many important delegations and presented research papers on business, in addition to running his own garment export business. He wrapped up his garment business after losing his sight, but still attends his office regularly. He writes letters, prepares invoices, and is in charge of ordering all the foreign cosmetics of his wife's beauty parlour in the Defence Housing Authority. He does all this without having learnt any Braille or the use of a voice recognition software – he does not have the patience to master the former and has not made much progress with the latter. He dictates his letters to be typed by others, but is irked by spelling mistakes they may make. Nevertheless, Mohammad has learnt to adjust his lifestyle with his impairment. His day starts off with his cook reading him an Urdu newspaper. Much of his time is taken up by being an active member of the Pakistan Association of the Blind. Mohammad has plans to set up an institute for blind children. "I would continue to work for the cause even if I were to be miraculously cured tomorrow," he insists. In 1976, Abdullah Mohammad's determination to master the field of telling horoscopes propelled him forward in the business along with the help of several books. His programmes are still aired on PTV and ARY Digital Network everyday. Practise has made him successful and allowed him to make accurate predictions. He does not charge a fee for his services as he believes what he does, gives people hope. "Horoscopes define the characteristics and nature of a person with the help of moon signs and its relation with other stars, he says as he talks about how the art of predicting horoscopes works. "Religion is its true base. Date, time, and place of birth are the most important inputs needed to calculate data for every individual." When inquired about the future of Karachi, he laughs. "This place has given space to many great Sufis, and it shall always be blessed with their prayers." Regarding the economic and political turmoil prevailing in the country, he believes that from September 25 to November, a layer of peace and economic stability will flow in Pakistan. Abdullah Mohammad's predictions about the former president Pervez Musharraf not stepping down have proved to be incorrect. He has an explanation for this. "Forecasts are not 100 percent true." He claims that his real predictions were that Musharraf's close allies would leave him in the end, but he would not lose power. "The national interest in favour of peace and stability grew against his power, so he had to step down based on personal advice," explains Mohammad. He believes in democracy, and is not satisfied with the election process in the country. He cited examples of local government bodies and representatives in India and the United Kingdom, where people show their national feeling and interest towards their country when casting votes. "Here, the base is not strong enough. The regular political faces get elected again and again. There is no economic and political stability." Abdullah Mohammad wants to serve his country by contributing his talent to help the nation regain confidence. "It is very satisfying when I get positive feedback," he says. The turning point in life was the year 1996 when he lost his sight. Before that, he used to heavily engage in social activities. "Once you lose your sight you are totally dependent on others and you lose your pace for everything. Being depressed is no solution. Staying content opens up the path to patience and success," he stresses. Abdullah Haji Mohammad may have lost his eyesight, but not his faith in the Almighty. He has accepted God's will, but if need be, will even go to Timbuktu in search of a cure. He does not care for unwanted sympathy. All he wants is people's respect and admiration. |
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behind. People in the desert are very fond of their homes, so they
seldom leave their abodes despite having financial difficulties. Marvi,
the legendary folk female character of Sindh, loved her home so much
that she refused to live in the King's palace. Similarly, every man and
woman in the desert refuse to move elsewhere.
distinct from other parts of the desert in the Tharparkar district
because of its rapid shifting sand dunes. Deserts in other parts of the
district have relatively more settled dunes. Achhro also possesses a
large cultivable area for vegetation.
sanitation.
Cruising past in their flashy vehicles, they lounge back in the driver's
seat and gaze out snootily at whoever passes by them. I am talking, of
course, about the CNG rickshaw driver.
times, keep their mobile phones hidden from view, and avoid loitering on
roads just before Iftar. If not, they warn,
likely to get their fair share of trouble because they can be charged
with offending the former group under the Ehteram-e-Ramadan Ordinance
promulgated in 1981 by General Zia-ul-Haq.
to imagine Abdullah Haji Mohammad is visually impaired as he walks into
the room. With a firm handshake, he acknowledges my presence as though
he could see. I later learn that the spectacles he wears are to avoid
unwanted sympathy.