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book
review

Yours deliciously, Tapu Javeri
Instep takes a bite out of Tapulicious, the photographer's second book after I, Voyeur

By Muniba Kamal

 

You've got to lick it, before we kick it!
Tapulicious is the most gorgeous book from one of the gorgeous men in the fashion industry. Tapu Javeri, the one women swoon over, who has featured as a poster boy for designer Deepak Perwani and MNC brands. And who has graced the catwalk  umpteen time as a celebrity model. With his tall frame, easy going attitude and firangi looks, Tapu is eye candy, but he is always uncomfortable on the catwalk, smiling shyly, walking very fast, a man obviously dying to get the hell off the stage. His place is in the photographer's pit at the end of the runway, armed with a camera, shooting till the show stops. He is a voracious voyeur, hungry to catch anything and everything – back stage, front row, in the aisles.

Tapu Javeri has chronicled all three fashion weeks for posterity alongside his other colleagues. He is not a celebrity fashion photographer sitting in the front row. He does not have a team of kids working for him. He is a one man show, painstakingly clicking each and every collection, even though at the moment most of those collections aren't important enough to be archived. Documenting is so very important. And that is what Tapu's archives are – visual documents - of people and moments in time captured in a freeze frame forever. 

Anyone can click a photo, but photographers are those who lift the image to the realm of art. Browse though Tapulicious and you will see a master at work, and not of the pompous, artsy, holier than thou variety. When it comes to photography in Pakistan, Tapu is the Grand Priest of irreverence. This comes through clearly in Tapulicious, the first photo in which is of the voyeur himself, taken by Nubain Ali, a budding photographer with Tapu lying on the ground surrounded by cameras. The tag line is tongue-in-cheek arrogance personified "I click, therefore you are."

Talking pictures
It's as if the people in Tapulicious didn't exist before he saw them – browsing through the book you realize that they had never before existed as he saw them through his lens, freezing them in a series of moments in time out of which that one magical moment jumps out at you when the subject's expression, the background, the light, the timing of the click conspire to give that one shot that jumps out at you amongst fifty others. This book, with just names and no explanations whatsoever is full of them. Each page is fabulous, flipping through it you get a similar sense of thrill that you do browsing through those magnificent coffee table books by legendary photographers like Herb Ritts and Richard Avedon. Tapulicious has something extra that pulls at your heart strings – it is us - Pakistan - as a cultural nation.

The cover is a shot of Iraj in a white wig and pale lips posing as 'Marium Antoinette' as Tapu likes to put it. One of his favourite girls (supermodels are Tapu's girls), the other being Aaminah Haq, it's a striking picture. When Tapu bought that white wig in Paris for Iraj to pose in, he knew what he was aiming for. The image is weird, yet beautiful, and Iraj has it in her to carry it off. That's the wonderful thing about models, they converse with the camera. And it is the fashion shots that make the book truly Tapulicious, and no model features more than Aaminah Haq, who ruled print till she left modeling. It is her face that jumps out at you fringe and tanned, lips slightly parted. It is Aaminah who swam for Tapu's unforgettable underwater shoot and the crazy shoot for Ammar Belal where she posed as Madonna in Who's That Girl? Gene Simmons from KISS and Marilyn Mason, carrying every look off. Bibi, Aliya Zaidi, Sadaf Malaterre – the golden girls are all there.

A dedicated follower of fashion, it is Tapu's images of oomph amplified to the max that make the book truly Tapulicious. Browsing through the pages, letting the pictures soak in, you will sense that Tapulicious is actually a flavour. Tapu chooses action and props a lot, Aaminah swimming or dancing, Deepak Perwani with the red angel from the 'Na Ray Na' Video, Abida Parween in the throes of ecstasy at an Urs, Reshma staring at you with a piercing intensity with those brilliant blue eyes – the pictures he chooses are unusual, whether intentionally created or spontaneously captured, they are theatrical, lively or make a statement that screams out loud.  

Reading visuals
The book is also brilliantly laid out thanks to Kiran Aman and her team at Still Waters Publishing, merging fashion seamlessly with the music personalities Tapu has shot for publications and album covers and the politicians and artists he shot for posterity. So in this book, you will find Sherry Rehman looking to her right towards a shot of Meera, wild Ali Azmat looking through a fishbowl right opposite picture perfect Vaneeza Ahmed. Icons like Iqbal Bano and Noor Jehan get a page to themselves with contact sheets. Naheed Siddiqi stands with arms outstretched opposite the late Ustad Nusrat Fateh Ali Khan and his face fold out into two pages featuring Naheed's close up and her ghungroo clad feet that hold you in thrall. You come across Nazia Hasan, Vital Signs, Junoon and everyone who came after them in a single shot Tapu had shot for the cover of a news monthly. He's photoshopped newer stars like Zeb and Haniya into that picture, back then Hadiqa was the only girl. And years before the pop music industry flourished the way it eventaually did, there is a shot of Anita Ayub in a burqa, from her glorious hey days as the first Pakistani sex symbol in India, that lasted till Dev Anand's flop was released.


That was way before Meera arrived on the Indian screen and therefore more prominently than ours. Her border crossing smooch with Ashmit Patel launched a thousand headlines and almost as many fatwas. Media had bloomed and that blitz remained unforgettable. As unsavoury as it may have been it elevated Meera to superstar status, but even Mahesh Bhatt couldn't have projected her with the sensuality Tapu Javeri did in a shoot for X-tra. In Tapulicious, you can see Meera's gorgeous face, hair done up Grecian style, her chin on a man's bare shoulder, a bitten apple in one hand. It's a striking image of the maiden and the forbidden fruit – the story of Meera foretold. It shows an incisive perception (coming from both Tapu and Fifi Haroon who styled that shoot), and says it all without making Meera look tacky or judging her, as filmmakers and television programs often do. 



More than words
For those who understand why a picture is worth a thousand words, Tapulicious has much to read into. Otherwise, there is no reading matter, apart from the Introduction, written by Samina Ibrahim, the preface written by Fifi Haroon and the Foreword written by Fareshteh Aslam. It comes across as strange that a book has all three, but that is made up for by the fact that all three women are legendary editors and worked with Tapu for shoots in Newsline, X-Tra and Instep respectively. Other than this, the pictures do all the talking. What is subtly and rather cleverly employed is the signage the book employs. As a record of Pakistani icons, it uses the iconography of recording and playing devices next to the name. The Pause icon is used for music bands that have broken up, Play for personalities who are living, Stop for personalities who have passed away, Record for all musicians and singers and the power symbol has been assigned to all of Tapu's unusually artistic work. It's a great effort, made possible by Pond's as a part of their Brand Council which Tapu is a part of.

While some people one spoke to felt the absence of text, I would rather go with the theory that these pictures don't need words. None of the great photography books have them, for the simple reason that they don't need them. A great photographer's eye suffices, revealing so much without saying a word - that's how Tapulicious tantalizes.