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instep
exclusive
Putting on theritz
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| Nilofer
Shahid made her second trip to Paris Couture Week. She didn't show
at the main event with all the hoopla, yet her collection showing
at the outlet of the prestigious jewelry design house Boucheron was
small and intimate. Nilofer chose Frieha Altaf for coordination, Tapu
Javeri for photography and music and Mubashir Khan to do the hair
and make up of 13 European models. Nilofer was invited by Didier Grumbach,
President of the Chambre Syndicale de la Haute Couture to show her
collection during the Balenciaga tribute at the Joyce Galerie. Nilofer
is still in Paris and chances are that even as you read this she will
be at the Joyce Galerie de Valois or somewhere near by. Her collection
will be exhibited there till February 9, 2007. |
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In
the early '80s, a song by Irving Berlin became an anthem for us fashion
people. "If you're blue and you don't know where to go to/Why
don't you go where fashion sits/Puttin' on the ritz?" It continues
to linger in memory.
High fashion, high style - the epitome of which is Paris Couture Week.
It's every fashion choreographer's dream. So when Nilofer Shahid informed
me that she would be showing there, I volunteered my services immediately.
Dreaming of million dollars couture shows, the likes of which are
produced for John Galliano for the house of Dior, the ticket for which
is the hottest priority on every fashionistas wish list. Would we
get into these shows? What would be the learnings from Paris Couture
Week? Would it be worth it to take a week out of my crazy schedule
away from my kids?
Yes, it was worth it! Working on a couture show in Paris for a Pakistani
designer is making history for our fashion industry. Standing next
to a 6 feet 2 inch model in 6 inch high heels and feeling like a midget;
digesting the fact that there is no French model amongst us, only
13 beautiful girls from Brazil, Columbia, Latvia, Hungary, Denmark,
India, Slovakia etc, you begin to understand what international fashion
really is... |
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Day
1: Arrival
Customs hold us to check Nilofer's baggage, which has her personal
jewelry. They are lost at how much there is. She explains that she
needs it for dinners and shows she will be attending. She stays
on while Tapu and I are deposited to Hotel Burgundy in the heart
of Paris.
Day
2: Casting
Tapu and I head to the Boucheron Salon to have a look at the venue.
We are introduced to Christine, Nilofer's PR manager in Paris and
Marco, the art director for the event. Both Tapu and I feel the
coldness from Marco who seems to be threatened by our presence and
keeps on saying condescendingly: "This is how it happens in
Paris."
In the end it was hard for him to even produce a business card or
get us any invites to other shows that week. Christine, on the other
hand, informed me that she mostly handles PR work for Pret Week.
This was her only show for couture. We also meet the President of
the renowned store. |
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Since
the casting is from 3 pm to 5 pm, Tapu and I decide to wander off
to the famous historical shopping paradise, Gallery Lafayette. After
a little self-indulgence - purchasing Fendi glasses - we head to Paul's
- the famous bakery for espresso and French delicacies.
Then we head off to the Pakistan's commercial consulate for the castings.
It's just after 3 pm and the girls have a two-hour window so they
keep arriving. All the girls are herded in by Marco, who points out
their features, their figure, their hands and even their bust size
to us in their presence. We can't help feeling like its close to Bakra
Eid and the goats are on sale. However, they are so beautiful that
making the choice of picking only 12 girls is not easy.
The comp cards are placed on the floor and decision is taken. We retire
to the next room to sift through some music and finalize it. "Is
Vinnie coming?" Nilofer asks. I message her again, hoping she
got the visa. The music is done and in walks a beautiful Brazilian
babe. We already have our 12 models, so she becomes a fall back. |
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Tapu
and I head back to the hotel and get a call from Sheheryar, Vinnie's
beau inviting us to dinner at KONG; a Philippe Stack designed Japanese
cum French club and restaurant. We go of course, but head home later
because Tapu has to mix the music for the show.
I wake up to find that some of the clothes are stuck with customs,
as are both of Nilofer's assistants. It's up to me to fit all the
models. What is painstakingly clear is that none of the girls fit
into the clothes from the chest. The best fittings are on the Columbian
and Brazilian models. Also, Zanna (the six foot two) model has the
best walk so, in spite of her short hair, she into the ideal choice
for Noorjehan transforming into Josephine. The Columbian model is
chosen to carry the gown for the finale because she is voluptuous.
Mubashir Khan, our stylist arrives with Fauzia, his assistant and
gives a presentation on his idea of what he has in mind for the show.
He has seen the girls, taken the designer's brief and understands
the limitations of time. (Most of the girls are auditioning for Armani
and won't be with us till 10:30; the show is scheduled for 3). |
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The
wedding gown arrives but the Columbian model is long gone so she
will be fitted tomorrow. Nilofer and I do last minute adjustments.
It's a Saturday night in Paris but there is too much at stake so
the team calls it a night except for Nilofer. She still has to pack
the giveaways and send out the press kits.
Show
day: Sunday January 21, 2007
It's cooler today. Realizing this, I wrap my Sunday bazaar coat
around and arrive at the show room. Mubashir is already at work.
The truss is up, blue lights are used as opposed to our usual amber.
The DJs - Romaine and Julia (also a model for Dior) - are going
through Tapu's music compilation. Marco asks us to add applause
at the end of the music. The advice is taken but not applied; applause
should happen naturally. The time for rehearsal is now or never.
I instruct the girls on their turns and stops, the descent down
the rather precarious stairs as well as the stance to assume in
the gallery. It is effortless; they are a dream to work with.
The guests arrive and are seated on Napoleon chairs; a red carpet
is laid out inside the store. Video cameras take positions and the
black suited security guards look perfect for their part. The one
lady who stands out is journalist, Diane Pernet. As interesting
as Isabella Blow, dressed in black she looks like she's stepped
out of a Spanish funeral with her black bouffant, lace veil and
red lipstick. . |
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Nilofer hasn't arrived. I call her a few times. The photographer
tells me, "Relax, all shows in Paris are late. Once we waited
an hour and a half for Jean Paul Gaultier."
Nilofer arrives fashionably late. The show begins; every garment
is applauded. I ask the girls to slow down; I need to finish in
20 minutes, not 10.
When it's over, I make my way down to see and meet as many guests
as possible but most have already left. It's a very busy week for
fashion. Elie Saab is showing tomorrow, Katie Holmes and Tom Cruise
have arrived for the Armani show, but no tickets are available for
these events.
-–Photography
by Tapu Javeri |
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