Beary tales from the jungle
Based on some ill-founded myths, men in Chilas consider bears their hated adversary
By Dr Raheal Ahmad Siddiqui
My first serious encounter with a bear was when one winter night Abbi, my father, read me a real-life drama from Kenneth Anderson’s book. The story was about a rogue black bear in a South Indian jungle which, in 1950s, single-handedly mutilated and killed 12 people before being shot dead by this famous big game hunter. I shuddered in my bed. The child in me could not comprehend the disturbing thought — that the ‘Smokey Bear’ of my comics could be so ferocious.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Just a little outside of the village of Kheiwa, in district Jhang, is the old graveyard of the village. It is a small vacant ground on a mound, with a few ancient Waan trees. Scattered all over the graveyard are broken pieces of bricks, charcoal grey in colour, due to their burning.

The only building that has survived in the village is a historical mosque — a small yet elaborately-designed structure, whose sanctity has been maintained over all these years — given that its bricks and wood from doors and windows have not been pillaged. But the mosque is now abandoned by devotees who would rather visit their newly-constructed structures in their new village.

This historical mosque was once also a madrassah, where as legend has it the lovers Mirza and Sahiban studied and fell in love. Given religious and social propriety, it is appropriate that the mosque stands abandoned, a cut-off from the past that the people of this village would rather forget.

When the village of Kheiwa was burned down by Mirza’s brothers to avenge the death of their brother, only this mosque miraculously survived. The rest of the village was decimated, and when a new village was established, the ruins of the older one became a graveyard, and the scattered bricks a remnant of the past.

About fifty kilometres from Kheiwa, next to the bank of another river (Ravi) is the historical village of Danabad, the village of Mirza. Here, lying outside of the village in shambles, protected by an arbitrarily constructed wall without any roof, are the graves of Mirza, Sahiban and his iconic horse Bakki. This physical evidence of the love story between Mirza and Sahiban is considered to be an inappropriate place to visit. The locals bar their womenfolk from visiting this magical shrine — they believe they become susceptible to elopement. Several women from their village have done so.

Mirza Sahiban, considered to be the last in the series of folk love legends of Punjab, when interpreted in the framework of an agricultural and patriarchal society that Punjab was at that time and still remains, is perhaps the most infamous one — a blemish on the metaphysical concept of love that was between, let’s say, Heer Ranjha.

Unlike Mirza Sahiban, Heer Ranjha’s love is considered to be an example of pure love, a manifestation of the divine, taking on a religious dimension in Sufi literature. Their shrine today in Jhang is a sacred space visited by devotees and lovers alike. The shrine of Mirza and Sahiban has become a taboo on the other hand. This is primarily due to the fact that Mirza and Sahiban’s love is considered impure, carnal.

For the orthodox guardians of folk, their act of lust permanently brought an end to the era of lovers in Punjab. There was to be no more Heer Ranjha or Sohni Mahinwal after how Mirza and Sahiban loved.

Falling short of these divine standards of love and then becoming the cause of Mirza’s death, Sahiban over the years has become a symbol of a weak lover, even unfaithful, when compared to the larger than life Heer.

While Mirza and Sahiban were being chased by her brothers after eloping, Mirza having reached close to his village, insisted they rest. Sahiban, caught between the loyalty towards her beloved and her brothers, insisted they head on but in vain. When Mirza slept, she placed his bow and arrows on the top of a Jand tree, so that when her brothers approached them, he would not be able to harm them, which he would have inevitably given his extraordinary skills with the bow and arrow. Mirza died believing he was betrayed. Sahiban is belived to have been taken back to Kheiwa and murdered by her brothers.

This Jand tree, which has been subject to numerous folk love poems and verses, stands a few kilometres from Danabad. Slightly bent, as if by old age and the guilt of Mirza’s death, the tree reluctantly lingers on to live through centuries. Its role in the folk history of Punjab has made it a site of a unique pilgrimage of keen folklorists. This is where Mirza Sahiban’s love story was brought to an end or given a start and this is where they are buried.

Despite the actual presence of the mosque, the shrine and the tree, where the story unfolded, no one can be certain if this folk love legend is actually true. This is also the case with Heer Ranjha, where the shrines and the villages exist but there is no historical evidence the couple actually existed.

For Mirza Sahiban, however, a few additional evidence points that there might be a Mirza and a Sahiban and their doomed love story. The first and particularly important is the ruin of the historical village of Kheiwa, burned down by the brothers of Mirza to avenge his death. The fact there is a mound outside of the village having buried within it the secrets of the lost society, one is left wondering if the burning of the village was actually an act of Mirza’s brothers.

The second tradition that gives credence to the historicity of this folk story is a that the Sayyals (Sahiban’s family) started practicing female infanticide after the murder of Sahiban. They started doing so to avoid the birth of another Sahiban. This practice was stopped by the British government as is noted in Sir Lepel Griffins’s book The Punjab Chiefs. The book implies that the story is indeed true.

However, having said that one is left wondering how Sahiban’s body reached Danabad after her murder at Kheiwa by her brothers. In this case, one could argue that Sahiban might not be actually buried there and only symbolically. The truth cannot be stated as a fact, given the nature of how this folk story has been handed down to us over generations. But given the ruins at Kheiwa and the practice of infanticide among the Sayyals, one cannot easily shun this story as fiction.

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Mirza Sahiban’s grave.  — Photos by Sohail Abid

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The killer tree.

 

 

 

 

   

   


 

Beary tales from the jungle
Based on some ill-founded myths, men in Chilas consider bears their hated adversary
By Dr Raheal Ahmad Siddiqui

My first serious encounter with a bear was when one winter night Abbi, my father, read me a real-life drama from Kenneth Anderson’s book. The story was about a rogue black bear in a South Indian jungle which, in 1950s, single-handedly mutilated and killed 12 people before being shot dead by this famous big game hunter. I shuddered in my bed. The child in me could not comprehend the disturbing thought — that the ‘Smokey Bear’ of my comics could be so ferocious.

Like all other pre-teen children of my time, it was Rudyard Kipling’s ‘The Jungle Book’ which introduced me to jungles of the subcontinent. Through Mowgli, I learnt about the snake fighting mongoose, the social setup of a wolf pack, the hated habits of hyena, the cunningness of the jackal, and the evil tiger ‘Sherkhan’ who wanted to kill my favourite man-cub.

But Mowgli had some good friends in the jungle.

The foremost was the wolf pack which nurtured and protected him as one of its own. ‘Bagheera’, the Black Panther also cared about him, but it was the old ‘Baloo’ bear which taught Mowgli the laws of the jungle. The most important ‘law of the jungle’ was ‘it never ordains anything without a reason and it forbids every beast to avoid killing a man’.

Reading Kipling’s book allowed me to enjoy rambling in wilderness without any fear of being attacked by a beast.

During my wanderings in recent years in Gilgil-Baltistan, I found out that the people in Chilas (Diamer District) consider bears their hated adversary. Their antagonism is based on some ill-founded myths — like bears kill their livestock for food.

Bears are not compulsive meat-eaters. But are frugivorous, and climb trees to forage. They are fond of mulberries, honey, potatoes and dig out roots. The man-bear conflict usually occurs when bears, driven by hunger, raid apricot orchards in June or maize crops in September for food. So, the black bears are killed by the villagers for their depredations to crops.

The easy availability of firearms is an added factor leading to the extinction of this specie from the valleys of Chilas.

I visited some of the valleys in my quest to save the black bears of Chilas. People in Dariel and Thore Valleys told me bears were originally offsprings of men who were driven into madness by their inability to pay their debts, and who took to the hills to avoid their creditors.

In Thurli Valley, 20 kms short of Chilas, I learnt people still believe bears are the distorted form of humans and sometimes they behave like pet animals. To substantiate this claim, Badar Jamil, an old but sturdy Gujjar, narrated me another folklore. “Long ago, at dusk an old woman saw a dark coloured animal lying outside her cottage. Taking it to be her cow, she dragged it by its ear and had it securely shut in the pen. Next morning it was found to be a bear.”

Few Septembers ago when the maize crop was ripe, this Gujjar, along with a relative, was walking along the Thurli stream. In full moon, he saw a silhouette with pointed ears, perched on the top of a Mulberry tree. He fired and something came crashing down through the branches. “It cried like a baby,” he recalls. Another shot by his companion silenced the three-month-old cub forever. In the later part of the night, mama bear returned and in rage tore apart the tree. The only thing left on it was sort of a nest where the baby bear was perched.

Gottlieb Wilheln Leitner (1841-1899), an Austro-Hungarian Orientalist and the first principal of the Government College, Lahore was deputed in 1866 by the Punjab government on a mission of linguistic inquiry to Kashmir and Chilas.

He recorded an interesting story of a bear and Ghalib Shah, a ‘one-eyed man’, who resided in a village near Astor: One night he saw a bear hastily eating his crop. The man got his gun and pointed it at the bear. The animal ran around the “blind side of the man’s face”, snatched the gun from his hand and threw it away. The bear and the man wrestled for a time, but both gave up struggle and retired. The son of that man still lives at the village and tells this story.

The fight between the bear and the ‘one-eyed’ man ended in a draw.

Legends are mostly made of stuff with happy endings. Dramas in real-life are just the opposite. Take, for instance, Furqan’s encounter with the bear.

It was May 1994. After spending a night in village Battian, about two hours walk from his home in Thurli Valley, 17-year-old Furqan and his friend climbed a ridge in front of the village at 9.00 in the morning to collect the bark of Timroo tree which in folk wisdom cures jaundice. He almost stepped on a male bear which was sleeping under a Timroo tree. He turned and fled, closely followed by the bear. As Furqan glanced back to see his pursuer, he found a black bear with white marks on his chest, standing on his hindquarters. The bear struck Furqan with its front paws.

Furqan’s friend heard his screams and saw him and the bear ‘bear hugging’ each other. He fired in the air so as not to harm Furqan, who by now was badly mauled, while the bear hearing the shots started running.

 Furqan coolly inquired from his distraught friend the whereabouts of the bear and on knowing that it is moving up the slope, insisted that his friend should shoot this marauder first. His friend fired three shots, missed all and then the fourth shell got stuck up in the chamber. By now, totally blind, Furqan took the gun from his friend, but was unable to dislodge the cartridge. He collapsed.

Furqan was carried to his home on a charpoy, still bleeding. Luckily the SDO B&R Department was on a routine inspection of Thurli Valley. Furqan was sped away in his jeep to Chilas where he received his first medical help, 12 hours after the incident. The same night he was shifted to DHQ hospital Gilgit. He was discharged after 22 days, but his life would never be the same again. He carries deep scars on his scalp and face, and is blind in both eyes.

Since then, no bear attack has been reported in Diamir District. It is considered a shy, solitary creature which gives right of way to humans. She-bears are known to show aggressive behaviour while rearing cubs. Last year, a full-grown bear ran passed an eight-year-old boy in Gais Bala Valley. No harm was caused to the excited boy.

The unprovoked aggression in the case of Furqan is easier to explain in terms of Mowgli’s laws of the jungle which says that “none of Jungle People (wild animals) like being disturbed and all are ready to fly at an intruder”.

Despite strict wildlife laws against poaching in the country, the ruthless killing of wild animals continues unabated. Baloo, the old bear, taught jungle laws to the man-cub Mowgli: “Is there anything in the jungle too little to be killed? No. That is why I teach you these things. Hunt for food, but not for pleasure.”

The more I read Kipling’s book in recent years, the more I am convinced we need to apply the jungle laws as taught by ‘Baloo’ the bear on ourselves.

The writer is a conservationist and an animal right activist and can be reached at dr.raheal@gmail.com

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Furqan sitting outside his home in Thurli Valley.

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Thurli valley in Autumn.


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