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Remembering Diana

 
The Diana Chronicles by Tina Brown will hit bookshelves in Pakistan soon. Being touted as one of the most insightful books on the princess whose life and death continue to make headlines, it is written by a former Vanity Fair editor who knew Princess Diana. Today, the People's Princess would have been 46 years old. Instep brings you excerpts from the must read biography that focus on the last days of her short, unforgettable life...

Paris. 31 August, 1997. The car that sped into the Point de l' Alma tunnel at 23 minutes past midnight was carrying the most famous woman in the world. You could see her displeasure in the tight expression caught by the security camera as she pushed quickly through the revolving doors of the Ritz hotel's back exit. Arthur Edwards, the dean of royal photographers, knew that look well. For 16 years there hadn't beea mood of the Princess
he had not been witness to. He had taken the very first picture of Lady Diana Spencer at a polo match one year before she married Prince Charles, and he was one of the first British photographers to arrive at the gates of the Pitie-Salpetriere hospital in Paris where she died. Like every other photographer in Fleet Street throughout the 1980s and 1990s, Edwards lived for - and on - Diana's smile.
On that last night in Paris with Dodi Fayed, the Princess knew things were out of control. So Edwards, a genuine favourite of Diana's, recalls today.

'She wanted to get home. She wanted to see the boys. She wasn't pop star. She was a princess. She was used to the front door, a red carpet. That whole Dodi thing - decoy cars, back entrances - that wasn't Diana's style.'

Edwards is wrong about that. The chaos of her last night was increasingly Diana's style, ever since the divorce which had transformed her from a protected royal princess into a free-floating global celebrity. The fact that she was rattling around Paris with a haphazard playboy like Dodi at the end of August was proof of it.

Dodi had used of a lavish apartment in a building belonging to his father overlooking the Champs Elysees, so what need did they have of a hotel suite? They were at the Ritz that night only because Dodi was intent on showing Diana every one of the trophies his father's prodigious wealth could offer.

No one pursued by paparazzi would otherwise choose this venue as a hideout. During the seasonal exit from town, Paris' most prestigious hotel is crawling with tourists. Even its more exclusive areas, such as its restaurant, L' Espadon, have a louche air of rootless extravagance. South American call girls with hirsute operators from emerging markets can be seen poring over the wine list under the trompe d'oeil of its opulent ceiling. Dinner for two sets you back 400 pounds.

The ambience this place typifies was exactly the kind Diana couldn't stand. She had just auctioned off all the grand and glittering dresses of her old life for charity at Christie's in New York. When she crossed the Atlantic for the opening preview in July 1997, Anna Wintour and I had lunch with her at the Four Seasons on Park Avenue.

'I've kept a few things,' Diana said about the upcoming auction, 'but you know that Catherine Walker with all the bugle beads? People in England don't wear those kinds of clothes any more.'

What struck me was how much celebrity itself had transformed her appearance. I have come to think that being looked at obsessively by people you don't know actually changes the way your face and body are assembled - not just in the obvious ways of enhanced fashion sense or tricks of charm and self-possession, but in the illusion of size.

The heads of world -class celebrities literally seem to enlarge. The years of limelight to inflated the circumference of Jackie O's cranium, it seemed her real face must be concealed by an oversized Halloween mask. If you looked into her eyes, you could see her in there, somewhere, screaming.
In the case of Diana, it was as if everything had been elongated and hand-coloured. The tall, soft-cheeked English rose I first met at the American Embassy in 1981, when she was a new bride, had become as phosphorescent as a cartoon. Striding on three-inch heels across the high ceilinged grill room of the Four Seasons, she towered like Barbarella. Her Chanel suit was a sharp, animated green, her tan as flawless as if it had been airbrushed on. The gently flushed skin of her face wasn't just peachy, it was softer than a child's velveteen rabbit. Her instinct was to move to America, and it was spot on. She would only ever feel at home now in the culture that invented fame the size of hers.

Diana was already worrying at lunch about where she might go in August. Putting out a deckchair at Kensington Palace was not an option for someone with an aversion to books. Besides, it would be lonely. 'It will be so difficult' she said, 'without the boys.'

For William and Harry, August meant Balmoral with their father and deluxe vagrancy for their mother. Everyone from her old life had withdrawn to family lodges in the Scottish heather or rambling villas in Tuscany. Diana, no longer HRH, was not so welcome in such circles now. The moneyed players of her newer London circle didn't rush to ask her to stay in August either. Who could face the palaver? It would be worse than having Madonna.

Not because Diana herself was spoilt or demanding. On the contrary, her notion of hedonism was to iron her own and her hostesses' clothes herself. ('I've finished my ironing. Would you like me to do yours?' she called downstairs to Lady Annabel Goldsmith and Jemima Khan on a private visit to Pakistan in 1996).
But it was one thing to enjoy the luster of having the Princess of Wales to dinner in London, quite another to put up with her houseguest requirements for longer than a weekend. It needed a fortress to keep the press and the loonies at bay. Only Dodi's father, Mohamed Al Fayed, was keen and rich enough to take on the aggravation.

The Egyptian merchant, who in 1985 had bought the Mecca of London shopping, Harrods, in the hope of storming the British Establishment, still dreamed about royal connections. His yacht, his Cliffside compound in the South of France, his Ritz hotel in Paris were Diana's new castles in the air. 'He has all the toys,' she told a friend.

The result was that her last two weeks with Dodi had been like a made-for-TV version of her honeymoon with Prince Charles in 1981. Instead of the royal yacht Britannia with its Royal Marine band and crew of 220, there was Mohamed Al Fayed's feverishly refurbished Jonikal, acquired for 12 million pounds the day after Diana wrote to confirm her invitation, and the piped-in music of Julio Iglesias.

Instead of a black-tie dinner on board Britannia for Egyptian President Anwar Sadat, it was smooching with Egyptian lounge lizard Dodi Fayed over caviar and candles. Instead of the disciplined, floating privacy of a closely guarded royal destination, it was a pestered cruise of the Mediterranean's highest-profile resorts in a shark pond of paparazzi.

There were similarities between the first and last men in Diana's life. Both were cowed by powerful fathers. The heir to Harrods, like the Prince of Wales, pursued Diana primarily because his father encouraged him to. Even the two bodyguards on the Paris trip, Trevor Rees Jones and Alexander 'Kes' Wingfield, reported not to Dodi but his dad.

Dodi had been all set to marry a Calvin Klein model named Kelly Fisher on 9 August 1997, until, on 14 July, his father summoned him from Paris to join the first holiday with the Princess and made wooing her an urgent imperative. The baffled Fisher was kept out of sight in St Tropez on board Al Fayed's B-list boat, the Cujo. Dodi visited her at night in secret until she wised up to the subterfuge and tried to sue for breach of contract. But it didn't matter to Diana if Dodi was his father's puppet as long as he picked up the tab and was nice to her. She told one of her confidantes, Lady Elsa Bowker, that with Dodi, she felt so 'taken care of.' Diana needed that.

In August of 1997, Diana was seeking to replace what she had possessed as a still married princess with a superstar's version of the same, a life of guarded insulation. She had swapped the stiff upper rictus of courtiers for the Hollywood equivalent: the celebrity servant class of healing therapists, astrologers, acupuncturists, hairdressers, colonic irrigationists, aromatherapists, shoe designers and fashion stylists. Even her 17 million pound divorce settlement could feel strained by this ever expanding support network. She sometimes had as many as four therapy treatments a day at 200 pounds a throw.

The problem for Diana now was that her new court could preserve her ego but not her person. Because she stubbornly refused to retain her police protection officers, seeing them as spies for the enemy camp, she was doomed to seek protection from the paranoid rich.

Mohamed Al Fayed supported a costly apparatus of bodyguards, surveillance cameras and informers. On his own trips to Paris, he traveled with eight bodyguards and was transported from the airport in a bullet-proof Mercedes with a medically equipped back-up car. Dodi, it seems had inherited his father's obsession. A former girlfriend, the model Marie Helvin, was both irked and amused that a night out with Dodi always featured security goons with pockets stuffed with 'bungs' as they called the wads of cash they were handed to buy off any trouble, alerting each other on walkie-talkies of Dodi's imminent arrivals and departures - as if he was a head of state with dangerous enemies, instead of an affable, slightly hopeless party boy.

For Diana the hunted, the security was a powerful attraction. So was the bonhomous atmosphere of the Fayeds' extended family. Alienated from her own, she was relaxed by the warmth as much as the wealth.
For women over 35, glamour has three Stations of the Cross: denial, disguise and compromise. As she entered her 37th year, Diana told herself she was looking for love. But what she was really seeking was a guy with a Gulfstream. Her needs at this juncture had more in common with those of second-act sirens like Elizabeth Hurely than with those of anyone currently residing in Balmoral.

She was reaching the point at which she could no longer kid herself that men of large seriousness and modest means, like Hasnat Khan, would be able to spirit her away from her fame to a life of low-key normality. She had enjoyed escapist idylls with him that worked only when, and because, they were secret.

Khan, hidden under a blanket in Burrell's car, would arrive at Kensiongton Palace with Kentucky Fried Chicken for dinner a deux with the Princess. When he took her on a date she wore a black wig and glasses, and thrilled to the excitement of standing undetected in a line at Ronnie Scott's jazz club. 'I'm queuing!' she crowed happily into her mobile phone to her 'healing therapist' Simone Simmons. 'It's wonderful!'

Diana saw this as the cosy index of her future life with Khan. But it was Marie Antoinette stuff, a daydream that would have exploded when it collided with reality. In the multimedia age, downsizing was unfeasible. Besides, she would have died of boredom.

And so Diana - like her role model Jackie Kennedy, who tired to re-create the fortress of the American presidency with the playthings of Aristotle Onassis - was scouring in her last days for a new kind of prince, one who could under-write the needs of global celebrity. Aboard the Jonikal, where she was supposed to be wrapped in dreams of becoming Mrs Fayed, Diana was appraising the CVs of suitors with better long-term prospects than the affable Dodi.

She still called Khan's apartment and left him messages, because she loved him and couldn't help herself, but she also kept other possibilities on the boil, such as the New York financier Theodore Forstmann, who owned not only a Gulfstream aircraft but also the company that manufactured it. From the boat she was deep in discussion with the Chinese entreprenueur David Tang, who was helping her make plans for a three-day visit to Hong Kong is September. Tang was not a boyfriend, but Diana's new interest in China was also stoked by Gulu Lalvani. The 58-year-old Hong Kong-based electronics entrepreneur was founder of Binatone, a company valued at some 300 million pounds.

Friends called him 'the Crater of Tranquility' because of his could disposition and pitted complexion. In June, Diana took him dancing at Annabel's, the Berkeley Square nightclub, in the hope of making Hasnat Khan jealous. She did not understand that it was just this kind of exposure that her medical hear-throb most derided and dreaded. The deluge of trashy images from the Jonikal must have filled the earnest Khan less with regret than with relief that he was not part of the madness. It was the prospect of just such career-trivialising photo ops that had made him run for the hills.

To Diana, the 42-year-old Dodi seemed perfectly cast for a romance of retaliation against both her ex-lover and her ex-husband. 'She just wanted to make the people at Balmoral as angry as possible,' her friend Lord Palumbo told me.

Her choice of agent provocateur was actually a gentle soul whose childhood in Egypt and expensive European boarding schools had been as lonely as Prince Charles's. Dodi's parents were divorced when he was two, with Al Fayed winning custody, but the father was almost never home. 'He spoiled Dodi, which is not the same as being there for him,' said the film producer David Puttnam.

When Dodi was 24, his father set him up in a film company, which meant he could date actresses and call himself an executive producer. He got lucky with his very first project, Puttnam's Oscar-winning Chariots Of Fire, in which his father invested 2 million pounds. It gave him the right to hang around the set until Puttnam threw him off for handing out coke to the cast.

The indeterminate nature of the movie business suited his temperament. His house in Beverly Hills was party central, a magnet for freeloaders, gold diggers and deal jockeys exploiting his childlike generosity. He threw, on average, four parties a week. 'He was good at being rich,' Marie Helvin said fondly. 'He was always sending me long-stemmed roses and boxes of mangoes.'

In the course of his six-week relationship with Diana, he showered her with a multi-stranded seed pearl bracelet, a Jaeger-LeCoultre wristwatch studded with diamonds and a gold dress ring with pave diamonds that was on her finger at the time of the accident.

Dodi's cash came from his father, not from business success. Like many coke users, he was terminally indecisive. His butler once waited three months in an apartment in Switzerland for Dodi to decide whether he wanted to live in Paris, London or Gstaad. Girlfriends would sit all day packed and ready for Dodi to show up to take them to LA on the private plane.

His bodyguards found his ever more erratic movements a source of rising consternation. Working for him was a nightmare at the best of time. 'He hated sitting in traffic, always wanted to push through, jump, lanes, to try to get somewhere more quickly,' said Trevor Rees Jones. 'He's order me to speed up when I knew there was a speed camera coming.'

Rees-Jones began to feel sorry for the Princess; he believed she deserved better. On the first Al Fayed vacation at his St Tropez estate in July, with William and Harry in tow, Rees-Jones had been touched at how carefree and warm she was wandering around a funfair and going on the rides with her kinds. 'She was lovely,' he reflected. 'And her children were fantastic. She could do miles better than this guy, for Christ's sake.'

Prince William shared Rees-Jones's view. He felt mounting dismay at his mother's relationship with Dodi and was uncomfortable with the Al Fayed Displays of conspicuous consumption. The pictures of her frolicking aboard the Jonikal in a August led to a blow-up on the phone. The 15-year-old was dreading the commentary from schoolmates when he returned to Eton for the autumn term.

It's doubtful whether Dodi could have long withstood William's disapproval. Nor would Diana herself have withstood any indication of Dodi's renewed drug abuse, which she abhorred. Unreliability of any kind annoyed her. In her role as Princess she was crisply decisive and punctilious in obligation.

What happened to that Diana on this extended summer folly? When we lunched together in New York in July, she was so self-possessed, so exhilaratingly focused. She saw Tony Blair's election as Prime Minister as a new broom that would sweep her old life away and entrust her with a humanitarian mission. Blair told me he had Diana in mind to boost efforts for overseas aid and debt cancellation.

Only months before the Jonikal left on its pleasure cruise, she had undertaken the most courageous mission of her life, campaigning against anti-personnel mines. As recently as 8 August, she had flown to Bosnia with Lord Deedes, the venerable former editor of the Daily Telegraph, who was impressed by her 'silent stillness, how good she was at hearing and dealing with grief, simply stretching out a hand to touch, applying her own brand of soothing tranquility.'

Yet, just three weeks after her stellar performance in Bosnia, here she was on a hot night in August, reveling in high-life flash, pursued by the farting motorbikes of the international press. While her boys were nestling in the bosom of the Windsor family at Balmoral and she was floating, Wallis-Simpson-like, around the pleasure spots of the Mediterranean.

So thoroughly have Diana's last hours been refracted through the prism of competing recriminations, it is easy to forget why she accepted the invitation to go on holiday with the Fayeds in the first place: she believed they offered protection. Yet it seems that she died because they weren't looking after her.

Not Dodi, whose plans were as chaotic as he was; not Al Fayed, if he approved his son's cockamamie notion of using HenriPaul to drive them instead of a qualified chauffeur; not Henri Paul himself, who was found to be concealing a blood alcohol level three times the legal limit. Little wonder that Mohamed Al Fayed's storm of grief at the loss of his son has been so volcanic in its projection of blame.

It has often been said that, by the end, Diana was in a spiral of self-destruction. I prefer to think of her last exhibitionist weeks as a relapse, a wounded and wounding gesture triggered by the ruin, once again, of all her romantic hopes it is one of the saddest ironies of her life that, just when she was on the point of casting off the most toxic elements of celebrity culture and using her fame as collateral for daring social activism, she should be locked by death in a freeze-frame of deadly glitz.