This summer, Karachi's witnessed a brand invasion of the massive, high-street kind. Foreign labels have ventured into Pakistan in the past, of course, but they're coming in greater numbers now, with bigger, better plans and their very latest collections. They realize all too well the power of retail in Pakistan. It's a one helluva force in an urban centre like Karachi with a population estimated to be between 15 to 18 million people; with a daily influx of new arrivals it's hard to tell. A substantial chunk of them have money and they want to spend it. That's why there have always been long lines of women queuing outside designer lawn exhibitions, sales on popular labels getting sold out within hours and designer bags and shoes being copied off and sold to the hilt by the opportunistic shopkeepers in local bazars. This is why four hugely popular, internationally famous brands have now opened flagship stores in Karachi. Apparel brands Monsoon, Mango, footwear and accessory chain Nine West and UK's multi-label giant, Debenhams have all set up base in the city by the sea with ongoing plans to expand to other parts of the country.

The common factor between all four brands: the spanking new Dolmen City Mall overlooking the seaside. It's uncanny that a single mall could bring in so much foreign investment but that's exactly what Dolmen City has managed to do. Big brands need spacious shops and Dolmen City had the space to accommodate these labels within its varnished interiors - Debenhams alone is one huge, 27 000 sq feet, double-storied, multi-label affair! The mall also attracts a varied traffic of customers on a daily basis; the window shoppers that wander in after a day at the beach, the families that stock up on groceries from the colossal Hyperstar and the shoppers who find it convenient to sift through their favorite brands that have more or less all opened up branches within the mall.

Abid Umer, CEO of Al-Karam retail, the group that has brought Mango to the country, elucidates, “We wanted Mango to be located in a mall that also housed other similar labels. This would help in attracting in the right customers, women and men who like wearing Western apparel and do buy into international brands. Conveniently, most other international chains as well as local fashion labels have all opened their shops in Dolmen City.”

Big brands, big malls and big designer names - latest collections by the likes of Jasper Conran and Julien Macdonald on the same floor as say, FnkAsia, Daaman and Ego … the tune to Pakistani retail is a-changing. Instep on Sunday takes a closer look:

Debenhams

The multi-retail chain Debenhams is a UK institution and comes to Pakistan complete with man-sized cutouts of the Queen's Palace soldiers standing stolidly at its entrance. Walking through the store is an experience in itself; let alone shop. Brought into Pakistan by Team A Ventures, the CEO, Yasin Paracha, explains that the designers at Debenhams have been selected according to the local mindset and shopping requirements. And hey presto, we've now got some of the hottest names in the UK now within our reach: Julien Macdonald, Jasper Conran, Matthew Williamson, John Rocha, Mantaray, Ben de Lisi, Thomas Nash and Jeff Banks are all part of the Debenhams entourage in Pakistan.

What's in store:

There's an entire floor dedicated to women and the options are endless. The apparel ranges from tunics to lowers to fitted, smart work-wear to sportswear to beachwear to dresses that vary from chic little black numbers to color-blocked ankle-length creations! There's a 'Shoe Salon' with a dazzling collection of heeled footwear, bags galore, sunglasses, perfumes and a cosmetics corner. There's also an entire section devoted to lingerie and sleepwear.

Moving on to men, there are work clothes, beach-wear, shoes, vests, casual tee-shirts, sunglasses and every form of trousers imaginable. The children's section, similarly, boasts an array of casuals, formal-wear, shoes, socks and tiny, adorable accessories.

A corner is also dedicated to bed-linen and home accessories featuring formal and basic bed sheets, duvets, towels and a small selection of frames and vases from designer names like Betty Jackson, Jasper Conran and our very own Al-Karam!

The prices:

With such a huge, diverse range of products, prices at Debenhams vary according to designer, design and fabric. Debbie Moore's casual sportswear line, Pineapple, begins at 1700 rupees while close by, Star by Julien Macdonald has dresses priced up to 12000 rupees (which are, by the way, selling like hot cakes - particularly a yellow, black and white, floor-length, color-blocked gown which the staff has had to restack three times already!).

Bag prices begin around 2000 rupees for the smaller clutches, moving up to 10000 rupees for the bigger, more complicated designs. Shoe prices escalate to 8000 rupees for the fancier, high-heeled variety but are reasonable otherwise; lingerie begins around 1000 rupees and continues on to above 5000 rupees.
Men's clothing, similarly, varies from tee-shirts at 1500 rupees to formal shirts and pants at above 6000 rupees. Children's clothing begins at 1000 rupees for casuals and goes up to around 7000 rupees for gorgeous, gorgeous 'occasion' dresses for little girls.

Basic bed linen begins at 1000 rupees and crosses the 10000 rupees mark for the satiny, formal variety by designer names like Julien Macdonald and Kylie Minogue.

What we like:

The variety, the choices! There's something for everybody at Debenhams and the store has deliberately been stocked with products that have prices that are mostly below the 10000 rupees mark. That's less than what many high-end local brands charge for a basic tunic!

And the apparel at Debenhams is according to international sizes and standards - no flappy armholes or untidy stitching here. While plenty of foreign children's apparel chains have opened up in Pakistan, this is the first time that proper high street clothes for men and women has been made available locally in such a big way. We've never had so many different varieties of imported jeans, shorts, tops and dresses to choose from at a local store before. Also women certainly have never had so many affordable lingerie options available to them before. More power to the shopper and an impetus for local brands to up their game, improve upon quality and reduce prices.

Then of course, the designs are lovely! There's no question about it; Debenhams is very, very British. The flowery English summer dresses, the fitted blazers for men, the striped, sashed dresses for little girls and the printed flowery dress shirts for boys … close your eyes and you're almost walking the English countryside! Or perhaps singin' in the rain down at Trafalgar Square!

What we don't like:

The designs are very British, which is a-okay - unfortunately, so is much of the fabric. The polyester and other synthetic cloth used in many of Debenhams apparel may be ideal for the rainy, chilly weather of the UK. In Pakistan, it would just have many of us break out in to a heat rash! The hot humid weather of Pakistan requires clothes that look great and are, at the same time, comfortable. Fabric is what has made brands like Khaadi such a huge success. It's what could leave a lot of Debenhams' current stock go unsold.

Eid wish list:

Full-length, belted flappers from Star by Julien Macdonald; fancy clutches by Debut; silk scarves and satiny colorful heels by Debut; handbags to match any outfit by Red Herring, Jasper Conran and Collection at Debenhams; the miraculous 'invisible shaping waist-nipper' in the Lingerie section; formal pants and shirts for men by Thomas Nash; occasion-wear for girls by John Rocha and Butterfly; formal waist coats, ties and pants for boys by Blue Zoo; shoes for children by Blue Zoo … the list is endless!

Monsoon

High-street, high-end British fashion for women and children waltzes into Pakistan with Monsoon. This is yet another project taken on by Team A Ventures - incidentally, the group has brought in quite a few international chains in to the country, such as Mothercare, Next, Timberland and Accessorize - and with Monsoon, they have their eyes on clients who value quality and exclusivity over high, high prices.

What's in store:

Clothes that look like they're right off some international fashion week runway: gowns, halters, jumpsuits, tops, flowing floral dresses and sexy short numbers. There's the occasional swimsuit and a limited collection of shoes, fancy clutches and accessories for women. For little girls, there are small accessories, a select range of casuals, embroidered satin shoes, pretty flip-flops and taking centre stage, princess-y gowns in net and taffeta with beaded bodices, ruffles and pleats. For dapper little men, Monsoon has dress-shirts with matching ties, waistcoats and ties.

The prices:

The very basic tops begin at about 3000 rupees and prices climb up to the 15,000 rupee mark, with very embellished dresses priced at above 20,000. Shoes and clutches mostly cost about 6,000 rupees, accessories around 3000 rupees, the formal clothes for children can cost as much as 9000 rupees.

What we like:

There is lovely, timeless formal wear, mostly in pure cotton, silk and chiffon. The prices may be relatively steep but the designs, prints and minute detailing at Monsoon make each outfit stand out. Even the very small range of shoes at the store are unique - where else can one find embroidered, sparkly ballerina shoes for little girls?

What we don't like:

Monsoon's clothes may be beautiful but they're also very expensive. The variety is also very limited with only a handful of shoes, bags and jewelry in stock. With so many more options and cheaper prices available at the relatively economical Mango right next door and Debenhams just a few paces away, Monsoon may not be able to gain much popularity.

Eid wish list:

Open-toed, strappy gold shoes available in both flats and heels; black and gold clutch; party frocks for little girls in taffeta and net; dress shirts for boys and statement necklaces, earrings and bracelets for girls and women. Also if you are imaginative, you can get a pair of flappers or capris and team them with a dress or tunic. Now that fusion wear is all the rage in Pakistani fashion, you will be surprised at how you can throw together foreign brands for an uber stylish desi look.

Mango

The Spanish take on women's apparel and accessories swoops into local shores with the help of the Al-Karam group, who aside from being lawn giants, are also responsible for bringing international brands like Splash!, Babyshop and Lifestyle to the country. Mango has over 2000 stores worldwide and has launched in Pakistan with its eyes set upon women with a penchant for fusion wear and smart, slick, Western designs.

What's in store:

Crisp, modern work-wear: button down shirts, trousers, capris, fitted jackets; jeans; loose flappers; tunics and dresses to die for; shoes; bags; scarves; jewelry and sunglasses for women.

The prices:

The simpler designs begin at 3000 rupees with prices escalating to around 12000 rupees as designs get more complicated and fabric gets formal. Bag prices begin at 3000 rupees; shoes at 8000 rupees and above; jewelry ranges between 1000-2000 rupees.

What we like:

Everything is just so wearable. The clothes at Mango are primarily in cotton, silk and lightweight linen. There are dresses that could steal the thunder at an evening soiree and everyday tunics to be worn over a pair of jeans or even over ajar pants for a modernized shalwar kameez. Mango hails from the hot climes of Spain and the brand's line-up is exactly right for the equally sweltering temperatures of Pakistan. 

The prices are also right up our alley - a dress for less than 10000 rupees, one-of-a-kind jewelry for 2000 rupees and it gets better: a seasonal sale where everything cuts off to nearly half the price. That's a bargain!
In addition, there's a regular flow of new stock in the store. According to the brand's international policy, stock that isn't selling well is rerouted to Mango branches in other parts of the world and is replaced by new stock on a weekly basis. An updated collection, according to the Pakistani mindset and requirements - makes complete sense.

What we don't like:

The relatively new, lesser known H.E. by Mango label has not been launched simultaneously with the womenswear. With a growing entourage of local male apparel designers and even a Men's Fashion Week in the works, the men in Pakistan are now getting quite fashion forward. If the current collection is anything to go by, H.E. may just turn out to be a roaring success in Pakistan. We hope the label launches soon and gives the Pakistani male a taste of the stylishly hot Spanish sun!

Eid wish list:

High stilettos in bright purple, green as well as sedate black, white and brown; earrings and necklaces that would go well with any outfit; sunglasses for the hot, sunny Eid day up ahead. 

Nine West

The U.S. based handbag and footwear chain opens up in Pakistan after conducting extensive surveys in the shopping wonderland commonly known as Dubai. According to Burj Fashion, the organization behind Nine West's advent in Pakistan, many of the label's customers in Dubai were Pakistani. This is the clientele that Nine West initially hopes to harness before it gains greater recognition and forges onto more extensive pastures.

What's in the shop:

Shoes: flats, low heels, high heels, and sandals; bags, ranging from clutches to larger bags; laptop bags; wallets; wristwatches; sunglasses and a very select range of jewelry.

The prices:

Shoes are generally priced above 5000 rupees with fancier heels escalating up to 12000 rupees. Bag prices vary from about 7000 to 9000 rupees, wallets cost about 4000 rupees; sunglasses 5000 rupees; wristwatches between 7000 and 9000 rupees; accessories at around 3500 rupees.

What we like:

We've seen Nine West products being sold locally plenty of times before; a handful of bags and shoes brought in from abroad and stocked in a handful of stores. There's certainly a demand for Nine West products and an official shop of the brand makes sense. And while some buyers may crib about the high prices relative to local labels (what can one expect with the rupee trundling deeper and deeper into devaluation?), one tends to pay more for foreign brands because of the better quality of their products. Shoes, especially, need to be comfortable and with Nine West joining the market, local manufacturers may just try to improve their own standards. Besides, a trip to Nine West in Dolmen City is certainly more cost effective than a seasonal sojourn to Dubai. Some of the designs make such funky style statements: shoes in neon colors or with buckles or tassles and bags in bright pink and orange.

What we don't like:

One look at the Nine West website and you know that the Pakistani shop is stocked with less than a quarter of the label's complete seasonal collection. Moreover, some of the designs - especially the bags - are from older collections. Nine West, in its first few months in Pakistan, may be test running the market but we do hope that we get to see more or the latest stock in the store. Less of the God-knows-why ever popular sequined shoe variety and more innovative shoe designs, perhaps? Ditto for bags: less of the flowery, bulky variety please and more of the satchels and smaller bags that look so enticing on the website and have sadly, evaded the Pakistani outlet so far.

Eid wish list:

Flip-flops and heels with straps, buckles, preferably in neon colors; strappy flats in silver and gold; wedges and espadrilles in a range of colors; bags in funky prints, double tones and satchel-shaped designs.

It’s all about the USP

There's something for everybody at Debenhams.

Monsoon make each outfit stand out. Even the very small range of shoes at the store are unique.
Everything is just so wearable at Mango;  dresses to steal the thunder at a soiree,   everyday clothes too.
Shoes need to be comfortable and with Nine West joining the market, local manufacturers may just try to improve their own standards.

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Super fashion forward: Monsoon is arguably the most fashion savvy retail store when it comes to Western wear. Summer dresses, easy tees, lowers of all sorts in a plethora of colours it’s a pleasure to browse through and buy. It’s pricier than others but then the quality and being so on trend speak volumes. Develop you own style, mix the West up with your East.

Caption

Best foot forward: Make a bold statement with those shoes and bags and you can dress up anything you have. Nine West is a welcome addition to the retail scene that sorely lacks stylish shoes.

Caption

Mango’s Spanish roots are clear in their choice of fabric which keeps the heat of summer in mind. Here they seem to be stocking mostly cottons, silks and lightweight linens - so weather friendly.Team colourful Mango pants with a funky local designer kurta, throw on those heels and look like an individual.