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instep
review
Colour me wicked
There can never be a dull moment at Nomi Ansari's fashion shows
and with this debut solo appearance, this design whiz proves that
he may have miles to go before he rests, but he definitely is on
the right path…
By Aamna
Haider Isani |
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| Nomi
Ansari is what any bright, young designer should be like. He's quirky,
carries an attitude on his shoulders and he has a distinct style of
his own which, as is the character of the word 'fashion', keeps changing
with time. But though his personal style is constantly on the move,
there's one thing about Nomi Ansari that remains a permanent in his
life. And that's his true love for colour. |
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So,
seated around the curving runway of Asad Tareen's newly revamped store
in Karachi, awaiting Nomi Ansari to unveil his first ever solo show,
one knew what to expect. The collection would most certainly be an
exciting explosion of colour. And the fact that it paid homage to
Bollywood certified that expectation. And in that, it didn't disappoint.
The venue itself was bustling with activity and Nomi's friends, in
all shapes and sizes, had turned up to give him a round of applause.
There were no expectations of great surprises that evening –
Nomi had made it very clear that it was going to be a small capsule
collection, “so don't expect something too extravagant.--
Yet
what did come across as something just as strong was the spirit of
camaraderie for the design whiz. The design industry turned up in
great force but more amazing was the presence of society heavy weights
like Zeba Hussain and even former Unilever Chairperson Musharaf Hai,
who is actually responsible for nurturing the Lux Style Awards into
existence.
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Amongst the beautiful young girls who fluttered around and were evidently
die-hard Nomi fans, several links to the music industry floated in
too. VJ Faizaan Haqqi attended, probably in moral support to his fellow
VJs who would be walking down the catwalk that evening. Rup and Q
from the band Josh made a late appearance as well, while Radio Jockey
Tapu Javeri, also and perhaps better known for his way with the camera,
couldn't resist the 2000 rapid shots that he clicked away. Between
the heavy summer heat that threatened to reduce everyone to a heap
to the equally invigorating fashion climate that lifted spirits inside,
it was most definitely a happening night.
The
fashion show was just as enterprising. More than just a spring/summer
collection, what Nomi put out what was more of a recap of everything
he has ever created and would work this summer. So while there wasn't
a patiala in sight, one did get a healthy dose of the floral embroidered
kurtas, the embellished tops and the carefully constructed bridal
ensembles that one can easily identify as Nomi's ethos. The collection
went beyond his DNA line (Diffusion by Nomi Ansari) as some outfits
were most definitely bridal couture. But what linked them all was
the burst of colour, the attention to detail and the occasional suggestion
of fashion innovation – the yellow Jodhpuri kurta being an example
of that.
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The
show dramatically opened to the notes of Pink Panther's theme track,
which momentarily confused – was this Hollywood or Bollywood?
– but the bubbling entry of VJ Anoushay in a wavy blond wig
laid all doubts to rest. This was Bollywood all right and Anoushey
could easily have stepped in as cabaret dancer Helen any day. She
actually insisted on an encore entry as she wasn't happy with the
lights first time round! From the whimsical and outrageous hairdos
and the dramatically painted nails, Bollywood rocked into full action.
As models sashayed in to famous Bollywood tracks, the show set into
fast motion. It was obvious that the audience was having great fun
with the combination of it all – an eclectic assimilation of
clothes with an equally entertaining selection of music. Can anyone
resist the rhythmic beats of the original 'Mehbooba O Mehbooba'? There
was hooting and cheering all way through and all it would have taken
was better weather and bigger space for this evening to turn into
a Bollywood party!
This collection was by no standard the best of Nomi Ansari –
one has witnessed more powerful collections by him at the Lux Style
Awards – but it was a beginning nonetheless and more than anything,
it served its purpose. It brought forward the ease with which Nomi
Ansari designs ethnic wear – that is his USP - though it also
hinted at uneasy relationship he has with westerns. The leopard skin
tunic, for instance, didn't gel well with the vividness of the rest
of his pieces. |
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That said,
amongst his generation of designers – those who graduated
from the Pakistan School of Fashion Design a couple of years ahead
of him but are regarded as his peers – Nomi may not have been
able to build a label as big as HSY, Karma or even Maria B in terms
of volume but it can be said without doubt that he has been able
to establish the most significant signature. In a recent survey
held at Instep, it was ascertained that he was one of the very few
designers in Pakistan who have become a household name in Pakistan.
Conspicuous by being missing from the list of fashion nominees in
this year's Lux Style Awards, this show was Nomi's way of standing
up and saying that he may be missing from that list but he won't
be missing in action. It was a good natured step that pointed towards
great sportsman spirit and it actually felt great to watch Fareshteh
Aslam, Awards Manager for the LSAs and Frieha Altaf, along with
many of the jury members sit in the front row and cheer him on for
it. The fashion industry certainly needs more good will as was witnessed
at this show.
The future is very bright for Nomi Ansari. He's got the makings
of a designer who knows his strength and will certainly go places
if he focuses on building it higher. It may be premature to compare
him to Manish Arora, but in his love for colour, Nomi definitely
is Pakistan's favourite pop artiste.
--Photography:
Rizwan-ul-Haq and Fayyaz Ahmad
Hair and makeup: Sabs
Venue: The Designers Runway Store
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