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instep
interview
Fashion fabulous!
Call them obsessive control freaks or perfectionists, fashion
designers Rizwan Beyg and Maheen Karim are two of a kind. While
Rizwan has been historical in the evolution of Pakistani fashion,
Maheen is breathing freshness into it every day. Cut from the same
cloth in terms of creative excellence, they are the perfect match!
By
Aamna Haider Isani
Photographed by Tapu Javeri
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There
are two kinds of designers to have made fashion famous in Pakistan:
those who have built enterprises and therefore success on a foundation
of excellent branding and marketing. And those who have most generously
been labeled 'control freaks': fashion designers who may not have
managed to build multi storey ateliers in every major city of Pakistan,
but whose attitude waves the flag of excellence on their smaller,
more exclusive studio spaces.
From two different time zones but having the same eye for excellence
are Rizwan Beyg and Maheen Karim: cut from the same cloth in terms
of qualitative obsession though different in as many ways as they
are alike. While one is a time hardened critic and very outspoken,
the other is a whiff of fresh air, eager to stick to the positive
and stay out of trouble.
When it comes to fashion though, Rizwan Beyg is infamous for controlling
his own shows, right from the collection to the grand production.
If there are rosettes on his runway, you can be certain that Rizwan
has put them there. And he is just as finicky, in fact more, with
the clothes he designs. Whether he is constructing an elaborately
embroidered kimono jacket for the Carnival de Couture or a simple
muslin blouse for his ready to wear Spring Summer 09 collection,
there is perfection in every stitch. They say God is in the details,
but where fashion is concerned, it's Rizwan Beyg all way through.
And then there is Maheen Karim, who has two years in the business
against Rizwan's twenty plus. But Maheen comes with the freshness
of youth and her own strengths of experience: a fashion degree from
St Martin's London followed by apprenticeships at Escada and Alexander
McQueen amongst other impressive names. That counts for a lot and
it shows in her work. Maheen pins her design ethos on a love for
luxury and she spins the purest of silks and chiffons into Western
wear that can easily be worn anywhere in the world. In just two
years, her sequined shift dresses (especially the iconic drop hemline
dress, which prolifically features as an integral part of all her
collections) have become her signature. Maheen is currently stocking
in Karachi, Lahore and Dubai and the only thing stopping her from
expanding all guns blazing is herself. In her own words she still
can't let an outfit out of her studio unless she has checked and
approved it personally.
You may be wondering why Rizwan Beyg and Maheen Karim are being
featured together but 'birds of feather flock together' and pardon
the cliché but that is the reason why Rizwan and Maheen gel
so well: they share an eye for fashion and a palette for luxury.
They are both exclusive in their takes on fashion and Rizwan and
Maheen have both won the Lux Style Award for Couture and Pret a
Porter respectively. They are both members of that exclusive fashion
club that thrives on perfection, rises from the elite and burrows
in deep rooted snobbery over so many others, though Maheen is still
modest and definitely more diplomatic about it than Rizwan, who
knows his strengths and has no reservations in flaunting them.
We meet at Rizwan's newly acquired studio in Clifton and he is every
bit the image of Rumpelstiltskin that he claims to be. Rizwan isn't
built big but this slight, blue eyed man with an unruly mop of brown
hair and glasses perched on his nose, dressed drown in a shalwar
kurta and trainers demands respect all the way. He refers to himself
as the fairy tale figure of Rumpelstiltskin because that is what
he feels he's been doing for the past few months: spinning gold
out of straw and staying awake all night to ensure it's done on
time. He has been prolific, whipping up 'emergency' collections
for international fashion weeks, Ensemble Avenue shows or stepping
in “like a Messiah" according to Zeba Husain. Rizwan
happily came to the rescue when Umar Sayeed (who was supposed to
show last year) pulled out of the Carnival de Couture "at the
eleventh hour". The fashion carnival has been facing unexpected
postponements ever since but Rizwan's pure white, unembellished
collection still hangs under lock and key in some forbidden corner
of his studio. He still won't let anyone preview it. |
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Maheen
has been just as busy. She has started stocking at the Boulevard
in Lahore as well as at Soiree in Dubai, and by her own admission,
is doing quite well.
"Can I model your white collection?" she asks as
she walks into Rizwan's studio that is no less than Alice's
Wonderland and begins draping an exquisite peach lace sari
on herself. Usually designers discourage other designers from
visiting their studios in case innocent inspiration turns
into plagiarism but that apprehension doesn't exist between
these two. There is instant camaraderie between them, a comfort
zone that is built on mutual admiration as well as respect
for each other's competence. Rizwan ostensibly enjoys the
role of mentor and guiding light as Maheen, still nascent
to the industry, refers to him for advice on things as basic
as kaarighar wages and politics. |
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"Darling anything for you," Rizwan responds though he
still refuses to unveil it. This man is a charmer above everything
else; his polished art of conversation makes it easy for him to
get away with murder. Well read and articulate, he hardly ever loses
an argument and he loves to talk. Rizwan generously adds that the
best thing about Maheen is that she may be able to appreciate what
he does as a designer but will never go back and try to emulate
it. Her personal signature is too strong. Of course, Rizwan Beyg
has been an object of inspiration for many other less original designers:
his heavily embroidered jackets and multilayered skirts like the
ones he showed in 2006 at the CDC have made their way to many other
ateliers and collections since.
"Of
course the Carnival de Couture can happen without Indian content."
- Rizwan Beyg
The
conversation turns from mutual admiration to the more pertinent.
It is March and the Carnival de Couture – fashion's most coveted
platform - has been postponed one time too many. Rizwan's virginal,
white collection remains untouched but he is adamant to save it
for the big night. The CDC is, after all, every designers dream
platform as there hasn't been a more high profile in Pakistan yet;
the only Pakistani designers to have graced it are Sana Safinaz,
Faiza Samee, Nilofer Shahid and Rizwan Beyg. And Rizwan is still
basking in the glory of that night when he stole the thunder from
Indian designers Tarun Tahiliani and Manish Malhotra and walked
away with the limelight. He is now ready with his second collection
for CDC, for whenever it happens.
"Of course Carnival can happen without Indian content,"
he responds to a genuine concern that it is a changing relationship
with India and therefore the impracticality of getting Indian designers
and Bollywood stars for the event that is causing delays and cancellations.
"Why are we so fixated with the Indians? Why not celebrate
our own heroes?" he questions passionately only to be cut off
by Maheen who feels that Bollywood stars is what "aunties who
buy invites for the Carnival want to spend money on."
Rizwan disagrees: "I think it's our own fault. No one in Pakistan
wanted Thai food until it was introduced as an option. The same
applies to Indian content. People donate to other charities like
the LRBT or Lady Dufferin and attend their balls, which have no
Bollywood stars. It's only the CDC that has given them Indians and
that's why women expect Indians to be at CDC. We need to move away
from this whole Indian obsession."
"No one is coming to Pakistan," he adds. "You need
to cross borders to make your mark. Buyers are not coming for a
Pakistan Fashion Week; I've been saying that for ages. We need to
go to international fashion weeks. It's not about selling all over
the world but about the recognition that showing abroad brings you."
"In
terms of recognition, the Lux Style Awards help in getting your
name out there."
- Maheen Karim
Last
year one saw the beautiful Maheen Karim, a vision in white, receive
her very first LSA for Best Pret Designer. Her first award was as
controversial as Rizwan's fourth consecutive win for Best Couture
Designer.
Many designers in the industry felt that Maheen was too young and
new to the industry to win and
Rizwan now too predictable to continue winning like this. In some
ways Rizwan agrees that two of his awards should have been given
to Nilofer Shahid (for showing during Paris Fashion Week) and Sana
Safinaz (for the impeccable work they have been doing for years).
That said, despite Rizwan winning four times, he has been the LSAs
biggest critic.
"The LSAs (in 2007) should have just been given to her (Nilofer
Shahid) for showing in Paris. But everyone said her portfolio was
very weak. That is one of the biggest problems I have with the LSAs.
Why do portfolios matter so much? When you're a well known designer,
your work should be recognized for what it is worth. Sana Safinaz
should have won by now. They have been working so hard for so long.
For heaven's sake, give them an award! The funny thing is that it
wouldn't have mattered to me; I'd be just as happy if Nilofer or
Sana Safinaz had gotten the award."
Maheen, on the other hand, delighted with her win admitted that
while the LSA may not have translated to monetary profits, it helped
immensely in terms of recognition.
"I had people congratulating me from Faisalabad and Australia,"
she says. "The emails flowed. I do think it helped in getting
my name out there. Suddenly certain photographers who had no interest
in working with me started calling."
"The best thing to me is that it is critical acclaim, it's
recognition from our peers," adds Rizwan while pressing on
the problems he still had with the judging system
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"Its
all done is a dubious way," he reflects. "Of course
the industry needs the LSAs but the LSAs need to have a system.
It's a great event, a great platform but my problem is the
judging process. It still hasn't been made clear. The solution
is very simple. You let the jury pick out four nominees and
everyone from the same field who hasn't been nominated votes
for one winner each them. Designers should vote for designers
and photographers for photographers. Why was ZQ looking at
my portfolio? I'd be more comfortable with Maheen Karim –
a qualified designer - looking at my portfolio. Having a make
up artist vote for a designer is like asking a maali to talk
about good food."
"I don't think Lux looks at it so technically,"
Maheen pitches in.
"Which is the problem," says Rizwan. "I know
the work Maheen has done in comparison with the work Usman
Dittu has done. I know my trade. Every year there is constant
controversy.That needs to stop." |
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There
was also a bit of controversy around Rizwan initially boycotting
the Lux Style Awards.
"I was banned from the Lux Style Awards one year. Musharaf
Hai banned me. Fareshteh (Aslam, LSA Awards Manager) told me,"
he furthered. However, when contacted, Fareshteh Aslam completely
denied the accusation.
"Musharaf Hai has always had the policy of inclusion,"
she clarified. "No one has ever been banned from the LSAs.
In fact when some of the Karachi-based designers called for a boycott
against certain Lahore-based designers and journalists, Musharaf's
reply was that the Lux Style Awards will never ban any designer
from the LSAs."
"Media is a double edged sword"
– Rizwan Beyg
But bans have gained popularity over the past few years. Designers
have asked for certain journalists to be banned from the Carnival
de Couture and Zeba Husain has always resisited while other journalists
(this one included) actually have been banned from certain fashion
shows in Lahore as well as Karachi. It's almost become a new phenomenon
to have taken Pakistani fashion by storm.
"I've never banned anybody," states Rizwan as Maheen speculates
that a certain fashion journalist may have been banned from the
Lux Style Awards.
"You know I've reached a stage in my life where there is so
much negativity and it serves absolutely no purpose at all,"
says Rizwan. "The media all over the world has become a double-edged
sword. I have to say that certain journalists – not all because
some do have ethics and integrity – are power players and
they begin manipulating people. But it doesn't apply to everybody.
It's like any other field. Some models have ethics, others don't.
It boils down to individuals. But my problem with media is that
they have been promoting mediocrity. We're going to end up with
all our stars being mediocre and they'll never be able to survive
an international audience. The media is creating monsters who will
one day turn around and bite them in the bum."
"More and more people are becoming quality conscious,"
adds Maheen, "but more or less, they follow what the media
says. Media needs to have that kind of responsibility."
"There is a complete 'have pen will write' syndrome,"
agrees Rizwan. "Just because you can write doesn't mean that
you have the authority to rip people apart. No 20 year old journalist,
even straight from Harvard, can comment on a Bunto Kazmi or Faiza
Samee."
On that note the conversation turns towards the controversial and
steers off the record. There is a lot to be said, a lot that needs
to be heard but as Rizwan says, one should keep it positive at times
like this when there is far too much negativity in the air. So constructively
speaking, Rizwan Beyg is going places this year. He has been voted
one of the 100 most influential Asians by the Ahlan Masala magazine
in Dubai. There were nine Pakistanis on the list, only one of them
a designer. Rizwan is also working on a range of his own screen
prints in swiss voile, chiffon and silk which will be constructed
into "the ubiquitous shalwar kameez" as ready to wear
this summer. He plans to expand his retail spaces and also add a
café to his studio in Clifton. "I'll call it Ecru,"
says the man who has been refered to as 'Rizwan Beige' for the longest
time. And before that happens, he will launch his very first collection
for Ensemble Karachi. Luckily, the Carnival De Couture also appears
to be rising on the horizon in April.
Maheen Karim is looking up in her own way. She is usually slow and
steady in approach but the current season has roped her into preparing
for the upcoming Ensemble show, which means she will be retailing
two different collections at Labels and Ensemble, though nothing
has been confirmed as yet. And Maheen is in no hurry to take the
express train to the top, though needless to say she will get there. |
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