The way we are
War of the zoos
By Naurin Sultana
Have you ever wondered why the Karachi Zoo is not like the one in Lahore? Although both zoos are in the same country, yet a huge difference exists. The question is why?

For those who still frequent Irani cafés in Karachi to socialize over a plate of Chello Mahini (rice and fish), Chello Kebab, and a cup of Sulemani tea, its time to bid farewell to their 'Irani hotel walas', as a majority of them have packed their bags, leaving Karachi for good.

Of approximately a 100 Irani cafés, restaurants and bakeries in Karachi during the 1960s, 70 per cent of shops have already been closed while the rest are fighting odds to survive these days. Amongst them are Café New Subhani and Khairabad Coffee House, two of the oldest Irani cafés in Karachi selling Persian as well as Pakistani food items near Fleet Club and I.I.Chundrigar Road respectively.

Run by four Iranis in a partnership and on rent, these two cafés have been notified to vacate their shops by their respective building owners, as, given the hike in real estate prices in Saddar Town, these two shops are expected to mint millions by their respective owners. However, despite notification, the Irani owners of these two cafés are not ready to vacate their shops and aim to fight the owners in court instead. "We have had this shop for decades," says Abbas Ali, the 60-year-old owner of Khairabad Coffee House. Abbas believes that since generations of Irani immigrants spent their lives expanding food businesses in these areas, minting money themselves while adding value to the area in return, they have an equal right to this place. However, despite claiming his right to the shop, Abbas is not determined to continue with Khairabad if he loses in court. "It is not profitable anymore," he says of Khairabad, adding that since there has been a decline in his customers over the past few years, its of no use to continue the café at a new location in Karachi now.

Other Irani owners of cafés and restaurants share similar views. One such owner of a renowned café on Regal Chowk at Saddar on condition of anonymity says that despite suffering losses in business, he was not that determined to move to Iran until the death of Ms Benazir Bhutto and the recent hike in prices. "Ghee prices have doubled from 900 rupees to 1800 rupees while a sack of flour to 1900 rupees from 1190 rupees," he says, adding that this rise in prices has made it impossible for him to make much profit now. He is sad that contrary to the 19th century, when his Irani ancestors easily made fortunes by setting teashops in Karachi and then expanding them to restaurants, he finds it difficult to even survive in Karachi now. "Karachi is not the same anymore," he complains.

True, Karachi is no more like it used to be during the 1880s when farmers from the village Yazd of Iran started moving to the sub-continent. Oil had not been found in Iran till then and poverty forced Iranis to travel to this part of Asia to make enough money to feed their families back home. According to what was told to the third generation of Iranis by their parents and grand parents, Boman Abadan, a Shiite Irani, was the pioneer of Irani cafés in Karachi. Boman set his teashop near Empress Market by the name of Abadan Tea Shop in 1882. Abadan's success in the tea business encouraged other Iranis to move to Karachi as well. "Most Irani migrants belonged to the Yazd village in Iran," says Farsheed Rohani, the Bahai owner of Café Eros at Regal Chowk. Followers of the Bahai religion moved to the sub-continent primarily for the purpose of pioneering; i.e. spreading religion. Moving to this region in 1908, they started pioneering from Lahore and then in Karachi during the 1920s. Following the footsteps of Shia Iranis, the Bahai Iranis too got into the business of teashops with Isfandyar Bakhtiari, the owner of Parisian Restaurant and Bakery as a pioneer of Bahai-Irani tea shop in 1920.

"Iranis got into this business because it was easy to sustain," says Farsheed explaining that setting up a chai-khana not only cost Iranis little money, but also did not even require them to learn additional skills. Farsheed adds that another reason to get only into the chai-khana business was that tea is a sellable item in coastal areas like Karachi and Mumbai. Therefore, cafés soon became a nice business for Iranis in Karachi where, "there were not enough quality teashops at that time," according to Farsheed. He adds that before Iranis there was only the concept of dhabas in Karachi which is why the spacious restaurants made by Iranis received a warm welcome in the city.

All these reasons collectively earned fortunes for the Irani migrants who sent messages back home: "come here, this is a good business," and thus the number of Irani immigrants to Karachi increased. They rented small teashops in different areas of Karachi, clustering mainly in Saddar, which was the city centre during the British era and then through hard work and quality services were able to extend teashops to restaurants as well as bakeries.

The café business for Iranis in Karachi continued to thrive during the British era and became even more successful after partition when Saddar continued to serve the purpose of city centre for the migrants. As Arif Hasan, renowned architect and urban planner, observes migrants in Karachi included bureaucrats, poets, musicians and intellectuals; therefore their coming made the social and intellectual environment of Saddar as a city centre very rich.

Therefore the cafes not only survived after partition but they thrived exuberantly, specially during the '60s and '70s which are regarded as the golden era of these cafés in Karachi. "There were some 100 Irani cafés, bakeries and restaurants in Karachi at that time," says Abbas.

One of the most famous among the Irani cafés that time was Café George which was referred to as a special restaurant i.e. where waiters were tipped for their services. Made in the 1940s at Frere Road, it was run by Mehrban Jamshedi and was one of the elitist cafés of its time and catered mainly to bureaucrats, ministers, government officers and families belonging to affluent classes who would "wear dinner suits" to come to this café. According to Farsheed, whose café, Eros was just a walk away from Café George, "people would pay one rupee for a cup of tea that would cost them only an anna in some chaloo restaurant only because it was worth it." Farsheed says that the quality of the food served at Café George and the cleanliness of the restaurant along with the uniformed waiters who reminded people of the British era was what that took people to Café George.

Others in the list of popular special restaurants were Fredrick Cafeteria commonly known as Cafeteria. It was the first west open restaurant with a garden in Karachi. The café had a wine bar on its first floor and was licensed to sell alcohol. Others in the list of popular cafés were Café Jehangir, Café Darakshan, Café Pehlvi, Café High Class, Café Iqbal, Café India and many more. Other than special restaurants there used to be Irani cafés like Café Eros that were called chaloo restaurant where a cup of tea cost one only one anna and no tip for the waiter. According to Farsheed, as one could sit there for hours over a single cup of tea and could even talk aloud "chaloo restaurants served a platform for political and intellectual discourse as people could debate in louder voices here."

Besides Saddar, Iranis set up their cafés in other areas of the city including Tower, Juna Market, Kharadar, North Nazimabad, Shah Faisal Colony, Landhi, Bandar Road and Numaish as well but, "they were in majority in Saddar for their clientele poured in from the adjacent cinemas."

However things begin to change after the '60s when the appearance of Saddar changed with the affluent moving from Saddar to areas like Clifton and the residential area being commercialized. The burning of the wine shop at Fredrick by students in 1968 served as a catalyst to the changing situation and more and more Iranis "closed down their shops, left for Iran as the mobile and television shops replaced their respective cafés," says Farsheed.

Today, almost four decades past its golden age, the leftover Irani cafés are the same as they were before. Yet, with the same old-fashioned wooden furniture, menu card and commitment that would attract throngs of customers, Irani cafés now fail to attract a large number of Karachiites. As a customer at Café New Subhani remarks, "neither does the food taste good nor does the ambiance offer anything exciting to spend 100 rupees on Chello Kebab."

"Karachi is changing," feel the Irani café owners while admitting that they failed to keep up with the change. Admitting their failure to compete with roadside stalls on I.I.Chundrigar Road that serve a decent lunch for a few bucks, Abbas says that he now feels a dire need to change Khairabad's set up to attract more and more customers. However, he equally feels the need for young Irani blood to make changes in order to make Khairabad a running business again. However, Abbas is sad that Irani café owners in Karachi lack such support from their younger generation. "Our children are too educated to run a café where they have to fight the riksha wala and bus wala for a few rupees."

The third generation of the Irani migrants, contrary to their ancestors who were farmers, comprises of engineers, lawyers and doctors and is not very interested in the café business where, "one has to face a lot of problems ranging from customer behaviour to tax issues," says Farsheed who was a high court advocate himself yet gave up his practice to continue his father's profession. However he feels that this generation of Irani cafés is not ready to face such problems now.

"The future of the Irani café is bleak," says Abbas, "and it will survive only if it is changed along with the changing trends in Karachi." Farsheed believes this to be true but does not know if café owners in karachi will be able to fight the drastic changes in the city.

Karachi has certainly something very unique about it apart from being the biggest Pakistani city. Karachiites appear to be nocturnal creatures with a never ending yen for fun. Be it a restaurant, a hotel, a fast food hangout, a coffee shop or a chai ka dhaba; Karachiites, especially the younger lot can be found hanging around at any given time of the day.

A few years back one would choose a place like Area 51 or Evolution for a little get together and downtime with friends. Over time though, preferences have changed and with the mushrooming of coffee places all over the city, Karachiites have found a new obsession. 'Going out for coffee' has become a familiar phrase and common phenomenon.

There is also the 'cool factor' attached to being a coffee freak. Coffee shops in Karachi provide a lovely atmosphere in which one can completely kick back and relax, albeit for a high price. Those who frequent coffee jaunts tend to find their pockets considerably lighter at the end of the day. But the cool comfort of these shops is worth the price one has to pay to enjoy it.

Coffee shops in Karachi attract all sorts of people. The morning crowd usually comprises of teenagers bunking school, or housewives trying to get over a chaotic morning. Lots of young professionals prefer to have informal meetings at these shops. One can also often spot the young and the broken-hearted, nursing their wounds and hashing their issues out over cups of coffee. There are those who sit aloof with a laptop for company and those who raise a little hell with their friends. It is not just the coffee that is attractive at coffee shops, the opportunity to people-watch is a great pull as well.

Being a Public Relations student, one benefits from these coffee shops at an academic level too. For answers to surveys, quotes and views of the public, coffee shops seem to be the best place to go. People more often than not smilingly answer all questions which is quite a confidence booster.

U and Me Coffee, Espresso, Costa Coffee, The Elbow Room, Indulge, Café Coffee Day, Cafe 9, Avenue Art, The Grapevine at the Pearl Continental hotel have successfully created a niche for themselves. Zamzama is of course flooded with cool coffee shops but areas like Tariq Road have coffee shops like Kahva and Roasters too.

"Coffee and sandwiches make a good meal to catch up over with friends," says Fariha smilingly as she walks into Costa Coffee with friends, "it beats inviting people over for dinner!"

Fariha feels coffee shops offer much more than just coffee. "They aren't just coffee shops, you see," she says, "they have everything. I come here to gossip with my buddies and have fun. For further motivation, the variety in their menu keeps me coming back for more!"

Interestingly, many Karachiites prefer dhabay ki chai over gourmet coffee. Rabya, a university student and aspiring journalist says, "tea is generally consumed more here, I would prefer to see more chai shops or dhabas than coffee houses."

A few tea lovers enjoy spending their time in open air dhabas at Nipa, Gulistan-e-Jauhar, Nursery etc.

"The feeling at uncle's dhaba is inexplicable, the doodh-patti is amazing. I missed it a lot while I was in USA, nothing can taste better than this dhaba tea," says Adnan, sipping his favourite beverage at a dhaba near Gulistan-e-Jauhar. Adnan has recently come home from America and loves the fare offered by dhabas and thela walas. Coffee shops give him a feeling of being in a foreign land again. He can even go to a dhaba in his night suit, which he loves.

Romances often blossom at coffee shops, this brings to mind the lines: "Where lovers first love and then marry/ Where there is place for every Tom, Dick and Harry."

Zaid personifies these lines, as he sits at his favourite coffee shop, Espresso. "I've been to most of the coffee shops in town," he says, "but I love Espresso the best, as I have some fabulous memories attached to this place. I can sit here for hours without company as I find the atmosphere very romantic."

The city of lights with a throbbing night and a busy day life has a vibrant cultural life as well, which is widely appreciated by outside observers. Faiza Rehman, when asked why Karachiites embrace every trend so enthusiastically, especially the coffee craze, says, "Its difficult determine a generalized attitude because of the socio-economic disparities and cultures all thriving in one city." But it is because of this diversity that Karachiites adapt to everything easily. With so much happening in one city at the same time and everyone working hard to keep up with it, it is a blessing that Karachiites have coffee shops to bank on to help them unwind!

Kamran Masood is a happy go lucky and a remarkably successful man at a very young age. Life to him is fun and frolic but you can't say that he has not seen the ups and downs of life.

Apart from a frivilous side, Kamran has a focused side to his personality with which he calibrates his potential and aims for personal growth. He might seek out the lighter side to life, but this does not mean he does not think about the people and issues that surround him.

By profession he is related to the media and he feels the media boom in Pakistan has gone a long way in educating masses about various things.

Born in Karachi, he has spent all his life in the city of opportunities making good use of each one that has come his way.

Kolachi: How long have you lived in Karachi?

Kamran: I was born in Karachi and have lived here all my life.

Kolachi: Where did you get your early education from?

Kamran: I did my early education from KGS and St Paul's School, then went to DHA Degree College after which I studied Civil Engineering at Sir Syed University. Besides this I have also done a course of flying form Schon Air and have done flying for a year.

Kolachi: Having such a diverse education how did you come into the field of media?

Kamran: Three days after my exams I went to an advertising agency where I was immediately offered a job and I joined due to the good salary package. Later, I was lucky to work with big names in the advertising world and did some of the biggest campaigns in Pakistan.

Kolachi: Having spent your entire life over here how do you feel about Karachi?

Kamran: There are memories unlimited, I feel that I simply love the city and can't imagine a life outside it.

Kolachi: What do you find most attractive about Karachi?

Kamran: Karachi is my birth place. It has a life unmatchable to that of any other place in the world …its one of the best cities in the world!

Kolachi: How do you find the people of Karachi?

Kamran: The people of Karachi are very helpful and loving, whenever they see you in need they will always come to help you.

Kolachi: Having traveled a lot would you prefer to leave Karachi and live somewhere else?

Kamran: I have visited the world's most enthralling and beautiful destinations, but there is no place like Karachi, and it is because of this, that though all my family lives in Canada I am still living in Karachi.

Kolachi: What makes Karachi unique to you?

Kamran: There can't be just one special thing about Karachi, its each and every thing. I like the sea, the morning walk, the food, the people and the fast and busy life!

Kolachi: How do you see the boom in media industry for Pakistan?

Kamran: I think it's great, it surely is very beneficial and has contributed to the awareness of the masses. Of course it may have its downfall at a certain stage but the overall effect on Pakistani people is there to stay which is a good indicator.

Kolachi: What do you feel about the changes in the city?

Kamran: With all the construction taking place, Karachi is becoming a beautiful and comfortable place to live in, plus I don't think there is just one kind of change coming about in the city; as the structural face of it is changing so is the lifestyle and ways of people. It is a city in which people from all the strata of life get a fair chance for advancement and this benefits both the people who are not just natives of Karachi but the migrants too.

Kolachi: With the current state of law and order in the city, do you feel safe in Karachi?

Kamran: I don't feel insecure in the city, whatever comes with the city my fate, but we should all just be careful and never forget Allah during our actions.

Kamran Masood is a man whom we can say has been there and done that and is still striving to achieve more. He can easily be described as extremely jolly, with his positive outlook on life making people he comes across feel uplifted. He keeps the world around him alight with his warm humor and loud presence.

With all his aspirations and successes, he truly emerges as a gem studded Karachiite and is one of those people who add character to Karachi by not just their achievements and things they contribute to the city through their work, but by their presence too. Living and laughing loud, such is Karachi's character.

Have you ever wondered why the Karachi Zoo is not like the one in Lahore? Although both zoos are in the same country, yet a huge difference exists. The question is why?

Previously known as Gandhi Garden, Karachi Zoo used to be a huge park before the government decided to turn it into a zoo. However, it is not serving the purpose of being a real recreational place, let alone of being a zoo. There has been a shortage of animals and poor maintenance can be witnessed at almost every level. Comparing Karachi Zoo with the Lahore Zoo, Tariq, 31, said that the Lahore Zoo is much better as it has an appealing entrance and the animals are definitely healthier and more active than those present in the Karachi Zoo. Maybe it's because of the treatment and the way in which these animals are fed. According to Asma, a schoolteacher, the zoo has nothing to attract visitors!

When the Deputy Officer Management, Ismail Shiekh, was questioned about the deplorable condition of the Karachi Zoo and the huge difference that exists between the Lahore and Karachi Zoos, he said that if people knew ground realities, they will never make comparisons. "Both the zoos are working in extremely different atmospheres. The Lahore Zoo is run under an autonomous body; that means they have their own board of revenue. Whereas, the Karachi Zoo works under the City District Government Karachi (CDGK), which already has other things on its priority list," said Sheikh. He also said that the Lahore Zoo board has their own budget and they can carry out any work independently. "We have to prepare the proposal file and forward it to the CDGK. Then whenever the CDGK gets time to consider our file, they invite tender applications and after selecting a party, the work starts. So, this slow and lengthy process further increases the problem manifolds," complained Sheikh. The management of Lahore Zoo was entrusted to the Wild Life and Parks Department in 1982. The Karachi Zoo still works under the CDGK. Therefore, the Lahore Zoo has had enough time to establish itself as a good zoo.

A grave problem faced by the management of the Karachi Zoo is the paucity of staff. The total strength is around 230, which includes Grade one to Grade 19 officers. However, due to the retirement of many employees, 58 seats are vacant and need to be filled immediately in order to improve the over all condition of the zoo. Unfortunately, the government has put a ban on increasing the workforce, hence Karachi Zoo has a total of 175 workers of which 12 are replaceable, that is, they don't turn up the whole month, yet they get full attendance and salary. Some of them even work for other government departments. This leaves the total strength of staff to 163 people, who look after the Zoo. Ironically, the Karachi Zoo's official website claims that it has a total manpower of 242 including six technical staff and the rest are trained and semi-skilled workers.

"The main source of income for the Karachi Zoo has been the elephant, Anarkali and the Mumtaz Begum Show. But the death of Anarkali has further reduced the income, leaving the entire burden on Mumtaz Begum Show," said Sheikh. Furthermore, whatever revenue is generated, goes into the government's account and not a single penny is spent on the development of the zoo, while the Lahore Zoo uses its entire income for its improvement. According to Sheikh, the zoo is not getting any fund from the government and whatever it earns through different means also goes to the government. One wonders how to compare the Karachi Zoo with the Lahore Zoo under such circumstances!

Talking about the means adopted by the Lahore Zoo to attract visitors and increase its income, Sheikh said that the Lahore Zoo has tried new ideas such as introduction of Multimedia Network and printing ads on entry tickets. "A large number of Pakistanis and foreigners visit the Lahore Zoo on a daily basis and their number reaches millions over the weekends, holidays and on special occasions. The Multimedia Network serves the purpose of hand to hand marketing, advertisement and business promotion," said Sheikh. He very disappointedly said that no such measures are being taken for the Karachi Zoo.

As a citizen, it's our responsibility to think that criticizing and blaming is not going to bring any change in Karachi Zoo. People need to investigate why it is so. The citizens also need to pressurize the concerned department to provide Karachi Zoo with the same facilities as Lahore Zoo. Its high time that CDGK looks into this matter. Otherwise, as in the past, the city will lose another recreational asset.