INSTEP Magzine


instep analysis And the nominees are… a SHOCKER! No HSY, no Amir Adnan, no Nomi Ansari, no Karma and no Ather Shahzad. The LSA fashion nominations are a shocker, but we think they are the fairest ever!

Best Pret Nominees: Body Focus, Kamiar Rokni, Maheen Karim, Sara Shahid (Sublime) and Sonya Battla Who will win: Sara Shahid of Sublime looks all set to win this category. She may not do many shows, but she is the most prolific of all the designers nominated in terms of availability, which is the key to prêt. How can you buy clothes off the rack unless designers are effective stockists? Sara Shahid opened her flagship store in Lahore last year, while stocking at The Designers in Karachi and at the PFDC Boulevard in Lahore. Her elegance has won her a loyal clientele in both cities and she has an infrastructure that is growing fast enough to keep pace with the increasing demand for fashion. Also, this year, she launched a line of lawn separates which no other designer has done yet, which should also make her a definite nominee for this category next year

Who should win: This is the most exciting fashion category this year and all of these designers are winners in their own right. Iman Ahmed of Body Focus for her fashion savvy and consistency. Maheen Karim for her perfectionism and her refusal to compromise on her design sensibility to get a share of the bridal market. Sonya Battla for her collection at the Giorgio Armani show that was the most exciting to be made by any designer last year and Kamiar Rokni for striking out on his own and with such flair that he won the hearts of fashionistas in both cities and obviously that of the LSA jury. They are all winners, but then it must be said that it is the Lahore designers (Sara and Kamiar) who operate in both cities. Maheen, Iman and Sonya don't. This needs to change to make the prêt scene more vibrant in Pakistan.

Missing in action: Nomi Ansari, HSY and Karma did not make it to the nomination this year. Neither did Maheen's Gulabo or Deepak Perwani's DPhilosophy, despite the high profile Pakistan Day Parade. It is interesting to note that this year, the pret category is dominated by high end luxury prêt. Nomi Ansari hasn't done anything groundbreaking since he bought back the patiala. His prêt is too similar to his couture, it's just that it's in cotton. The only cutting edge collection was what he presented at the Lux Style Awards last year, but who wears golden hot pants and minis in Pakistan? HSY did two high profile shows last year where he showed a number of lines many of which can't be bought at a retail store to date, for example HSY Active. He is also doing so much that he does not have a USP anymore as far as clothes are concerned. He only has the best marketing machine in the business.

Karma seems to have floundered since Kamiar Rokni left. Maheen Kardar Ali has yet to come up with a collection that defines her ethos. She needs to do a show that puts her fashion identity on the newly redrawn map of Pakistani fashion. And Maheen's Gulabo, though a contender for the past two years didn't make it this year. This is because while it remains a big seller, it plays it safe. Gulabo may have been a novel concept when it began but now it is something we take for granted. Wearable? Yes. Worthy of a nomination for Best Pret? Not anymore. Deepak Perwani's DPhilosphy collection has been his best for women yet, but he has been too busy flying it all over the world instead of showing it here in Pakistan which is why it hasn't had much of an impact. Designers need to realise that to make a big bang at home is as (if not more) important than making one on foreign shores.

Best Couture Nominees: Rizwan Beyg, Nilofer Shahid, Saadia Mirza, Sana Safinaz, Umar Sayeed Who will win: Nilofer Shahid for showing at the Boucheron outlet in Paris during Paris Couture Week. It is Nilofer Shahid's award this year as clearly as the Lux Style Award for Best Couture should have gone to Rizwan Beyg last year. Unfortunately, last year the Ten Year Plus Award for Fashion Design category was alive and well last year, so HSY ended up walking away with the Best Couture prize. But when it came to best couture, nobody held a candle to Rizwan Beyg's Carnivale collection. Similarly, this year, no one holds a candle to Nilofer's achievement. And it is great to see the worthiest of names compete with her.

Who should win: Nilofer Shahid for the aforementioned reason, even though everyone in the category did beautiful work last year, especially Rizwan Beyg who wowed Islamabad with his show last year and Sana Safinaz whose shoots show that they are coming up with their most innovative designs yet. Missing in action: Nomi Ansari, HSY, Karma and Faiza Samee. With the 10 Year Plus category abolished, it will be difficult for the young Turks of fashion to get nominated for best couture unless they can match the intricacy and flair of the senior designers. And that is difficult but not impossible. After all, the tasteful Saadia Mirza did manage to get nominated didn't she?

Model of the Year (female) Nominees: Fauzia Amir, Fayeza Ansari, Nadia Ali, Neha Ahmed, Nooray Bhatti Who will win: Fayeza Ansari, because the impact that this girl has on shows remains unmatched and her poses in print and that size zero body has all the biggest designers beating down her door. Who should win: Fayeza Ansari because she has the makings of a great fashion model. She chooses her projects carefully and you'll never see her appear in an unfashionable product advertisement. At a time when models are bcoming jacks of all trades venturing towards television and film, such puritanism must be commended. It is fashion that excites Fayezah first and foremost and that ethic must be encouraged. Missing in action: Annie Ali Khan, who was very prolific in print, but we think her height did her in. Also Nadia Hussain, Iraj and Vaneeza but that is because these nominations show that it's time to be out with the old and get in the new.

Model of the Year (male) Nominees: Abdullah Ijaz, Ameer Zeb Khan, Iffi, Hareeb and Rizwan Ali Who will win: Rizwan Ali, because he has done some of the most dynamic shoots, one of the most memorable being for Munib Nawaz shot by Khawar Riaz. Rizwan has oomph in print and mystery on the runway. Who should win: Iffi, who has redefined tall dark and handsome He looks like a beefed up Shallum Xavier and he has bee stung lips that could put Angelina Jolie to shame. Iffi has a great height and he prowls the catwalk like a black panther. His is not a typical Pakistani face, which is what makes him a great model. Missing in action: Adnan Malik because he juggles too many careers to excel in any one and Emaad Irfani who has been edged out by worthier competition this year.

Best Fashion Photographer Nominees: Deevees, Guddu Shani, Khawar Riaz, Maram Aabroo and Rizwan-ul-Haq Who will win: Guddu Shani, who have been doing the most amount of work in Lahore. Every issue of Libas is chock full of their work, which stands out. This husband and wife team is touted as the new Ather Shahzad of Lahore, but that isn't fair. They have an identity of their own. This is why they are doing the prestigious Sana Safinaz campaigns, amongst others. Who should win: Rizwan ul Haq who wasn't even nominated last year and many fashion insiders were shocked at that oversight. This year Rizwan is and justifiably. Inspired by the great fashion photographers of the world, he has the most distinctive signature style. And when compared to Guddu Shani, while they are defined by their beauty, Rizwan's USP is his edginess. Missing in action: Ather Shahzad, who lost originality when they started their own beauty salon and their shoots have become too predictable over the years. And Tapu Javeri, who has done some great shoots, but just not enough of them.

Best Hair and Make up Nominees: Guddu (Guddu Shani), Khawar Riaz, Munazza Rizwan (Deevees), Depilex, Maram Aabroo Who will win: Khawar Riaz, who stylizes women and men with equal affinity. Khawar has done a major chunk of all commercial campaigns last year and he has been equally active with fashion. More so, he is responsible for giving Veena Malik her fashionable makeover, as well as consistently coming up with a steady trail of male and female models. Khawar is just as passionate about his profession as he was a decade ago and his sincerity shows through his work.

Who should win: Khawar Riaz because he did the most amount of work last year. Or if not, then Depilex, because they have stylized some of the high profile shows last year, especially for Rizwan Beyg. And they are the only enterprise after Nabila and Tariq Amin, who have a set-up big enough to manage fashion shows and not just fashion shoots. Plus, the 'photographer-stylist duo' team, which is a tradition exclusive to Lahore, has not been that healthy for the growth of creative fashion. It takes fashion towards being more of a business than an art and it is not healthy for collaborative work which is the only thing that leads to interaction within the fashion industry. As opposed to this the photographer-stylist duo has traditionally led to the formation of insulated cliques that over a period of time evolve into mafias.

Missing in action: Mubashir Khan, Tariq Amin and Nabila. Mubashir swore off being part of the Lux Style Awards after he was overlooked as a nominee years ago. Mubashir, with his styling of the Carnivale de Couture last year proved that he is indeed one of Tariq Amin's best protégé's. But then like Tariq Amin and Nabila, he hardly did any work last year. And we think it is a healthy sign that despite the giants of the styling community choosing to stay away from shoots and shows, hair and make–up remains a very vibrant category indeed.

Best Menswear Designer Nominees: Deepak Perwani, Ammar Belal, Munib Nawaz, Kuki, Ismail Farid Who will win: Deepak Perwani, because he's got the flair as well as the classicism to appeal to all age groups. The young, hip and happening boys buy Deepak Perwani and so do the more mature men. Deepak has been very prolific last year and his menswear is accessible in both Lahore and Karachi, so he will easily win this category again. Who should win: Ammar Belal because the well-dressed are swearing by his suits. Though he does not make traditional men's clothing - thus affecting his market as the shallu is what most men wear in Pakistan - his Western wear is immaculate. Ammar Belal's campaigns are the most talked about in town and between his design ethos and the natural spin he has on fashion, he is the most deserving in this category. Missing in action: Amir Adnan. Though Amir Adnan may be the most successful menswear designer in Pakistan, his label has become more about traditional and commercial clothing than cutting edge fashion. But then Adnan openly says that over the years he has become more of businessman than a designer. So it should be all the same to him. Best Retail Brand Nominees: Khaadi, Stoneage, Ego, Crossroads, Labels Who will win: Khaadi, because the traditional angle it takes on fashion makes it more popular amongst the masses and that is what retail is all about. Khaadi has revolutionized the concept of hand (or machine) spun cotton in Pakistan Who should win: Crossroads, because they have raised the bar for retail when it comes to casual, ready to wear western clothing. The youth of Pakistan swear by this brand. Crossroads has been consistent in the turn-over of seasonal collections - it follows international forecasts - and their campaigns are savvy as any high end fashion brand, if not more. Missing in action: Generation and Cynosure didn't make it. Generation, that defined style in the late eighties and early nineties still sells, but it doesn't remain contemporaray anymore. Cynosure too, though reasonably priced, misses out on being stylish enough to make it to the LSA nominee list. Best Emerging Talent Nominees: Anoushay (model), Rabia Butt (model), Fayyaz Ahmad (photographer), Fazal Abbas (photographer), Nida Azwer (designer) Who will win: Rabia Butt who featured in the maximum number of ad campaigns last year continuing with the Shehryar Sumar's V9 lawn and Maria B lawn this year. And then there are the Crossroads campaigns and countless others. Rabia's strength is her versatility and the fact that she does it with such ease. She is being touted as the next Vaneeza Ahmad and in 2009 we predict she will be in the Best Model category and in all probability will walk away with the trophy. Who should win: Nida Azwer is a young designer making waves in Karachi. She has an edge that reminds one off a young Sonya Battla in the making. She does the edgy clothes and even so she is fully capable of making the lovely outfits people will prefer to buy. We predict that Nida Azwer will come out this year and she has a long way to go. This LSA nomination is just the beginning for her.