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city The
way we are karachicharacter
city The Abdullah Shah Ghazi Mazar is one of karachi's most prominent landmarks and carries within it a world of it's own. Whether seeking solace at the shrine, hoping for a free meal, or trying to earn a living there; everyone who frequents the mazar has a story to tell By Sumaira Jajja Sitting atop a hill
with a vista of the Arabian Sea, the mazar of Abdullah Shah Ghazi (R.A)
is a The entrance of the mazar is lined with flower shops and catering shops with a never ending onslaught of beggars who pester you for money while spouting oft-repeated, cliched catch-phrases disguised as duas. If you choose to walk away, all sorts of curses are hurled your way and if you give in to the demand, rest assured you might be the next king in the making with the promise of the world at your feet. The air reeks of water combined with the fragrances of rose and incense, which envelope the air around. Treading up the stairway lined with damp, soggy carpets which leads to the mazar, be prepared to be jostled from all corners. Someone with nimble fingers might show his crafty handwork and you might be wallet-less in no time. If you happen to be a woman, brace yourself for lecherous glances, nasty whispers and pawing, even if you are covered from head to toe. The cheap thrills these men get from such 'holy adventures' are still a bit of a mystery, but if you happen to catch the culprit, you will have no shortage of 'saviors' to thwart the offender.
While the mazar is on
one side of the bridge which serves as a great divide between two
different As Sadia offers fateha amongst other female devotees, a small woman with a robust child showers petals on the grave. Raising the child, she asks him to touch the tombstone, telling him that he will get candy and toys. Once she is out, this scribe approaches her. At first reluctant to have her picture taken or answer any question, she finally gives agrees to chit chat for a little while. Sardar Bibi hails from a small village in Hazara and her husband is a bus driver. As she strokes her child's hair, she says she and her son suffer from tuberculosis. "For a year we went to many doctors. I was scared of losing Abdullah but by the grace of Allah and Baba Shah Ghazi, my son is now cured and well." Some
may call it blind faith and disapprove of the practice of visiting
mazars, but Raees, a caretaker The largess of the Sufi saint is apparent at the langar outside the mazar. Everyday, thousands queue up for free food. Whether its runaway kids, squatters, the visitors, the niaz of Shah Ghazi is an offering they relish with delight. The greasy biryani and zarda combo feeds many who must have slept without food at all after a hard day's work other wise. "Had it not been for Baba Ghazi, I would not be able to have two square meals a day and save money to send back home," says Ramzan, a dholchi. Originally from Bhawalnagar, he left his work as a tiller there in search of green pastures. What was once a pastime has now turned into his livelihood. Dressed in a yellow dhoti kurta with his turban resting in his lap, Ramzan's face tells the story of despair and frustrations. Too embarrassed to go back home and tell them about his work in Karachi, he plays the dhol at the roadside from where he and his troupe are often picked up for wedding parties. "Iss shehr mein insaan ki izzat nahi hai! (There is no respect for humans in this city)," he says. Lamenting the fact that people look down on him and literally throw money in his face, Ramzan says its the mazar that offers him solace unconditionally. Ramzan
is not the only one. There are many more with their own heartaches at
this mazar. From Wading through the steady stream of devotees, if you ever want to look forward to a spiritual experience of sorts, head straight to the lane adjacent to the mazar. There is a peculiar stench in the air. The smell is of hashish being smoked by groupies. The sight is surreal, yet is a harsh reminder of how people try to forget their miseries riding on a high wave. The lane leads to a
small, dingy compound. Every Thursday night, the space turns into an
arena of sorts. The resounding thump of the tabla, the raspy voiced
qawal, the clapper boys and their As the clock ticks away, each clap of the tabla gets stronger, the harmonium sounds sharper with the vivacious qawal requesting patrons to listen carefully to the verses and then bursting into repeated chants of Allah hoo! The calming moonlight and the glare of the iridescent bulbs with incense-filled air is a scene that can only be described as out of this world. As devotees whirl to the music under the shadow of the mazar, trying to forge a bond with a higher power, one has no choice but to give in to the experience. hyderabad blues All dried out: Contaminated water in Sindh Studies have revealed that 80 per cent of underground water consumed in Sindh is contaminated, which can lead to serious health impairments. By Adeel Pathan As modern
advertisements commonly state; water is life. Unfortunately, this
natural resource has In Sindh, as in other parts of the country, the supply of water is just not enough anymore to meet with the demands of a growing population. There is a shortage of water, both for agricultural and drinking purposes. The water that is available is turning toxic due to negligence of the matter. The main and only resource of water for those living in Sindh is the River Indus. However a vast population of the province lives too far from the river and hence cannot benefit from it, instead having to rely on underground supplies of water. This is quite a tragic situation, as underground supplies of water in many districts of Sindh are more often than not saline and arsenic and carry other toxic substances as well. Underground water
which contains high concentrations of arsenic and salt serves as slow
poison and Dr Mohammed Yar Khuhawar is a scientist who heads the Hi-Tech Resources Central Laboratory of University of Sindh at Jamshoro and has done a number of researches on the water situation from water scarcity to condition of available water and presence of arsenic and contamination in water. Sharing the findings of his research with Kolachi, the scientist observes that the studies being conducted with regard to water are meant for academic activities but the results are also being shared with the government and concerned departments. "80 per cent of the underground water which people of Sindh consume is not fit for human consumption at all," he reveals and says that while no authority can be blamed for the arsenic and salinity, because it is natural; discharging toxic and industrial waste along with municipal waste water is easily avoidable. In his latest research
report on the effect of arsenic contamination of underground water on
human Dr Khuhawar observed that villagers, including children, displayed darkening of hands and soles of the feet, along with black spots all over the body, which is an indication of arsenic poisoning. "We have conducted an extensive study on the basis of samples collected from Matiari, Dadu, Thatta, Badin, Nawabshah and Khairpur (the hometown of Sindh Chief Minister Qaim Ali Shah) and found underground water unfit for consumption of humans because of a very high concentration of salt," he says and adds that it is on this basis that it can be claimed that 80 per cent of underground water is unsafe for consumption. "During times of water scarcity, salt concentration may rise to 1000 PPM (parts per million) and can be used for human consumption but if water becomes too salty, then it should not be used for drinking purposes," he elaborates. Filter plants decrease the arsenic factor in water, says Professor Yar Mohammed Khuhawar and explains that, "the demand for water is increasing because of the rise of our dependence on agriculture and at the same time, water is becoming scarce." Professor Khuhawar points out that his research is based on the study of 30 different parameters of quality of water. To a question about affect of global warming, he says that this factor is beneficial for increasing water quantity because of melting glaciers but stresses that there is a dire need to recognize the water shortage problem and that available water, especially underground, is unsafe. Contamination of water should be checked and measures should be adopted to contain this factor. A World Health Organization (WHO) report says that: "long term exposure to arsenic via drinking water causes cancer of the skin, lungs, urinary bladder and kidney, as well as other skin changes such as pigmentation changes and thickening (hyperkeratosis)." Provision of clean drinking water should be top priority of the newly instated government. However the powers that be at the centre, as well as in Sindh have not spoken a single word in this regard despite the fact that this problem should be fixed as soon as possible. Pakistan's current population of 141 million is expected to grow to about 221 million by the year 2025 and will have direct impact on the water sector for meeting domestic, industrial and agricultural needs. The previous government carried out some researches and studies in this regard and results showed that water supplied to citizens in many districts of the country is contaminated. With the advent of summer, diseases related to the season are already enough of a threat without having to worry about poisonous water too. With studies pointing out the problem and it's causes, measures must immediately be taken to contain and fix the problem of contaminated water. The way we are Sunday or funday! By Madiha Ansari It might not be a well-maintained market, but it is still the only one of it's kind. Karachi's own Sunday Bazaar, or as it is commonly known: Itwar Bazaar, is an urban adventure that has to be experienced to be believed. It is a place where items of daily use are available at rates much cheaper than at other shops and upon much scavenging, some pretty novel items can be found too. From the couturier to the experimental fashion student and the begum sahibs; this open market is an accessory haven for anyone with an eye for fashion. It is located in all major localities of the city, the largest being in Gulshan-e-Iqbal and DHA. One of the things that make the Sunday Bazaar really appealing is the fact that it is open from late Sunday morning, way into the evening, allowing shoppers to come and go at a leisurely pace. It is not a flea market, because one can also find brand new goods being sold at affordable rates. Sunday Bazaar is a hoarder's delight, and nothing is too trivial to find its way into this bazaar. From toys to gadgets, utensils, crockery, lawn suits and children's clothing, accessories, handbags, artificial jewellery, shoes, books and even pets; Sunday Bazaar has it all and then some. People from all walks of life throng this bazaar to buy anything and everything. As one customer said: "there is almost everything in store for everyone." The stalls selling t-shirts are a favourite with shirt lovers, which are available in all sizes, fabrics and colors. Sometimes one is able to find designer shirts for a fraction of their original price, ranging from 50 rupees to 250 rupees, the best thing is that prices are always negotiable. Similarly, branded jeans are also available at very cheap prices. A girl buying jeans was of the opinion that, "the variety and prices available in the bazaar are much better than those found in other markets. Even Zainab Market does not have so much branded material as one can find here." Bags of all kinds, sizes and materials can be found in the right and left corner of the bazaar. Straw bags, beaded and embellished evening bags are easily available. Mrs Azmat, a mother of two, buying a handbag said, "I like the variety of bags here. Being a working woman, i usually visit the Sunday Bazaar to buy bags and jewellery to match my dresses. The prices here are quite reasonable as compared to other places. No matter how busy i am, I try to take out time to visit the place." These hand bags range from 150 rupees to 500 rupees. School bags are aplenty, the prices of which range from 200 rupees to 400 rupees. Bags bearing cartoon characters like Superman, Spiderman, Barbie and others are a great attraction for young children. Similarly, vendors selling toys are surrounded by children of all ages, persuading their parents to buy some for them. Belts are also sold in the weekly bazaar, which are priced from 80 rupees to 200 rupees, coveted by men and stylish girls looking for a good bargain. A customer was of the opinion "although the quality of belts is not so good, they can be used casually." Things attractive to girls are found in abundance in the bazaar. Jewellery of all kinds is available and girls of all ages throng these stalls to find something for themselves. Beautiful rings, necklaces, earrings, pendants and nose pins in bronze and silver are sold. A few semi-precious stone vendor also makes earrings, bracelets and other items which are priced from 120 rupees onwards. A girl buying jewellery from one of the stalls said, "I like to buy jewellery from Itwar Bazaar as there is a lot of variety and the prices are also affordable". Shalwar suits, both stitched and unstitched are also available. Beautiful, trendy and cool lawn prints as well as georgettes are available in different prices and colours. Prices usually range from as low as 200 rupees to high as 1000 rupees and above. Similarly ready made suits for both men and women are also available. One Mrs Haq, buying some beautiful lawn prints said, "the prints sold here are usually the same as sold in markets, but as they are quite expensive, I prefer buying them from here, as the prices are also reasonable. Besides these prints fade out quickly in the blazing sun so its better to buy suits of 200 rupees instead of 1000 rupees." With shalwar kameez, trendy slippers are a must, therefore footwear can be found aplenty in Itwaar Bazaar. One can find all varieties of shoes from chapals and sandals to more formal shoes, from kolhapuri chapals to khussas. The prices vary with the kind of shoe one is buying. In the center of the bazaar is the place of attraction for students and book worms. One will find them crowding book stalls every Sunday. A mind boggling variety of rare and hard to find books can be found from time to time. Usually the books sold here are second-hand, but that does not affect the quality of the reading material, as was said by one customer buying some books. The prices start from 25 rupees to 200 rupees or above. Those fond of pets can also find something for themselves as a wide range of pets like chicks, quails and parrots are available. Although these stalls attract pet lovers but some buyers also trade pigeons, parrots and roosters. The most popular among kids are chicks which are available in different colors. Affordable household things like embroided table mats, cushion covers, sofa bags are also sold in the bazaar. Children's clothes, hair accessories and other necessary items are available in a large quantity as well. Fruits, vegetables, oil and ghee are also sold in the bazaar. Despite the big retail outlets and malls which are blooming day by day, the Sunday Bazaar keeps thriving and continues to attract a large number of people which only increases with time. The Sunday Bazaar is truly a place where anyone and everyone can go and find just about anything! karachicharacter Step by step With so much chaos and
negativity all around us, the thought of community service is a soothing
one. Noorali Virji, an Assistant Internal Audit Officer at AKESP, is
also a dedicated community service worker. At this young age he has
developed a sense of facilitating and guiding those who need it. This
community service comprises of counseling people and suggesting
guidelines regarding any matter. Kolachi: What is your qualification and work experience? Noorali: I have done Bachelors in Commerce Kolachi: What does the community service you offer comprise of? Noorali: I work at my community centre where we give religious education and guide people towards a better future. My job entails making necessary logistic arrangements and slight dealing of management as well. I also gave religious education, but then left because of other major tasks. Kolachi: What made you come towards community servicing? Noorali: In our community there is a strong concept of community servicing. I was attracted towards it because I have seen my elders serving our community in different areas. They motivated me to carry it out as well. It really gives me satisfaction that I am playing my role in the betterment of our community. Kolachi: Karachi being a pool of problems, how would you think your services benefit the city? Noorali: Helping one person can solve the problem of at least one out of billions, so can work on an individual level. If everyone does their share in helping their community, then it will be a huge help to the city at large. Even a journey of thousand miles starts with the one small step! So little or more, a start is a must. Kolachi: Have you provided services in any other city? Noorali: Not yet. Kolachi: How has the experience of community servicing been for you so far? Noorali: Its fantastic! it gives a great degree of satisfaction and we also get to learn a lot from each other as we work. Kolachi: How can the media help to raise awareness about community servicing? Noorali: The media can play a good role in spreading awareness. If any entity initiates a plan of forming a body that serves the city, things will start getting better. What we need is someone to initiate this step. Kolachi: How important is community servicing? Noorali: Very essential! It makes those involved with it much more aware of what is going on around them, rather than just being insular individuals. If this sense develops in all citizens, then society as a whole can prosper greatly. Kolachi: How can community servicing be promoted? Noorali: The media can play a big role in this, by initiating a platform for existing and aspiring groups and individuals offering community service. Kolachi: Why would you say Karachi is special to you? Noorali: Karachi is the heart of the nation and the centre of all attractions. In short it reflects well on Pakistan and is a fast developing city. Kolachi: For you Karachi is… Noorali: Home of opportunities and challenges as one can experience the true meaning of life here! One can get to learn a lot here. Kolachi: What is the best thing about Karachi and it's people? Noorali: Karachiites have learnt to never give up. People here are very confident and know how to move ahead in life. Even in difficult times they find alternatives to cope up with the most tedious of situations. People here are really hardworking, as they are the citizens of one of the biggest cities in the country. Kolachi: According to you what positive impact can community service have on our society? Noorali: Community service plays a vital role in every society. Being Muslims, our religion also directs us to help out the needy. By following this Islamic teaching, our society can flourish in the true sense of the word. It can also help our society truly base itself on Islamic teachings. Kolachi: Would you make community servicing your sole profession? Noorali: I'm not sure about that. Kolachi: What would you say your motto in life is? Noorali: Do whatever your heart tells you! Hoping to do much more for humanity, Noorali Virji has already devoted more than five years to community servicing. According to him, community servicing plays an essential role in developing a society. Here in Karachi where we can spot those making mischief constantly, we can also easily spot those easing others' troubles. A paradoxical mix of the good and the bad, such is Karachi's character. |
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landmark of
Karachi. To experience the richness (and poverty) that city offers to
all and sundry, a trip to Abdullah Shah Ghazi is a must for every one. A
city within a city, the shrine of Baba Shah Ghazi is a melting pot of
people and emotions. Every day, thousands pay their respects to the
saint who lies buried here and return to their homes feeling a bit more
peaceful. Easily accessible from all corners of the city, the mazar is a
popular site with those seeking spiritual gratification, with a bit of
recreation thrown in for good measure.
worlds
in Karachi, its not an unusual sight to see the downtrodden segment of
society rubbing shoulders with elites at the mazar. Call it faith or the
lack of it, as much as the poor believe in the miraculous powers of
Abdullah Shah Ghazi, the rich and powerful too show their devotion to
the saint by paying frequent visits to his shrine. Sadia Karimullah, a
mother of three children is at the mazar hoping to win the saint's
favour. "My sons are appearing for their o'levels and I came here
so that Baba will listen to my prayers. I hope they both get good
grades. If that happens I will feed a 1000 people here at the mazar,"
says Sadia as she is followed by her entourage of servants carrying the
nazrana (offering), garlands and tinsel trimmed chadar. She made her way
towards the tomb, visibly agitated at the Thursday rush of humans that
seems to engulf the mazar.
of the tomb says that there is no harm in this practice. "These
people come and pay their respect to Baba Abdullah Shah Ghazi. For them
he is a waseela, a portal through which their prayers might be heard.
Allah is the only being who can grant us our wishes."
masseurs who are picked up for their services by men in luxurious cars
and many a time abused and not paid, to hijras and prostitutes who
satisfy the lust that harbours in the shanty quarters; from mothers with
ailing kids looking for a miraculous cure, to men who come in here to
find peace, the shrine offers a deep insight into the sub-cultures of
Karachi.
thwacks, the Sufi verses, all this creates a milieu that is hard to
resist. The listeners to this mystical concerto range from pot smokers
to young men from the interior. There are times when a foreign-returned
patron might show up at the zikr and yuppie sightings, though rare, are
an occurrence too; but the event, by and large remains a men's only
affair. As the qawal sings Allah Hoo, Jhoolay Lal or the smashing Bhar
Do Jholi Meri Ya Mohammad, in unison the attendees listen.
become a hard-to-come-by commodity, especially in Pakistan and sometimes
when it is available; it is contaminated with all sorts of substances,
making it unsuitable for consumption. It should go without saying that
the situation needs to be harnessed and fixed as soon as possible.
promotes a number of diseases in the people who consume it.
health in
the Tando Allahyar District, the scientist revealed that water quality
based on total dissolved solids (TDS) was mostly observed within
acceptable limits for human consumption. But underground water in three
villages including Allah Bux Arbab, Khair Muhammad Jarwar and Haji Saleh
Halepoto is highly contaminated with arsenic.
Noorali Virji considers himself fortunate as being the part of this
community service in the provincial capital, Karachi.