instep
review
Fashion history saunters down Ensemble Avenue
Bunto Kazmi's catwalk debut, Sana Safinaz do Western prêt, Rizwan Beyg turns from Carnivale colour to monochrome and Adnan Pardesy makes fashion impact. Pond's Ensemble Avenue was short and sweet but even so a tour de force. Here's why…

By Muniba Kamal

The coats that came out are perfect for winter weddings and can be used to accessorise Western wear too. The bustiers were funky and the saris sported by Nadia Hussain and Vaneeza Ahmed sparkled with an almost other-worldly iridescence. The outfits were luxury prêt done in the best of eastern tradition. Bunto Kazmi knows what she loves doing, she does it to perfection and she knows that this is what her clientele expects of her. One did appreciate that she stuck to her blazing guns and not attempt doing dresses as many couturiers attempt when they turn to prêt, and normally unsuccessfully. It is best to excel at what one does as opposed to being Jack of all and Master at none.

That someone of Bunto Kazmi's stature and experience is agreeing to make off the rack clothing shows the evolution of Pakistani fashion.

Even the grand masters are willing to play according to the new rules, even though they don't really need to. Bunto Kazmi is the premier bridal wear designer of the country and she certainly doesn't need the prêt sales. That she is making a line that is more accessible to people and is willing to come out on the ramp and on record has added immeasurably to Pakistani fashion.

Sana Safinaz have done the same. The women who do the most volume when it comes to bridal in Pakistan and who have done prêt, in limited quantities from their kaarkhana only, completely reinvented their brand in style. When they opened the show, there was some doubt as to who was showing. The designs walking down the ramp were unbelievable in terms of both variety and quality - flowing kaftans, risqué and racy tops worn on faded denim, gave way to white contemporary eastern formals and culminated in series of jewel-toned dresses that flowed and were held in place at the top by well crafted metal.

"Is this Adnan Pardesy?" people wondered, as the rollicking, lively collection came sauntering insouciantly down the ramp. And when the name Sana Safinaz was announced, the applause was wild and absolutely spontaneous. The girls have come into prêt and how. One has always known that they could deliver the goods, both because they have the necessary exposure to Western fashion, but also because when you see them in real life, you don't see them in the signature Sana Safinaz garment. Their prêt line is exactly what you would catch them in at a ball or on vacation faraway from Pakistan.

Their turn on the catwalk was followed by Rizwan Beyg whose entry was marked by Nadia Hussain sashaying down the ramp in an immaculately wrapped turban, tight white pants, a white top with black cutting across it like a sheath and a flowing white cloak. That this high fashion drama unfolded to the strains of the Bollywood hit 'Dilbar Dilbar' made it all the more striking. The opening was typical Rizwan Beyg, send out that one image that is so powerful that it sets the tone for what's to follow. It was incredible to see that he had picked up on the turban, that has been all the rage on international catwalks this last season and incorporate that into his segment.

The press in the front row commented that there were strains of Carnivale coming through and one must agree. The jackets, the skirts, the motifs did remind one of Carnivale, even though it had been stripped of colour. But the difference was that the clothes were more structured and more wearable. There were no voluminous gypsy sirts, but there was a flow and easy movement to the dresses.

Later on, when talking to the Rizwan Beyg, one discovered that he had made these clothes last minute because his original collection for the second Ensemble show had now become his collection for the Carnival De Couture that will be held in December. Apparently, designer Umar Sayeed decided to bow out of the Carnival at the last minute for reasons best known to him and Rizwan Beyg graciously stepped in.
Since he last catapulted his talent back into the stratosphere by showing the Carnivale collection and easily outclassing both Tarun Tahiliani and Manish Malhotra, Rizwan may have landed but he's hit the ground running. He is all about fashion talent these days, truly excited by the industry. At the Lux Style Awards, he thanked young designers for "making fashion fabulous" and at Pond's Ensemble Avenue, he was all gung go about Adnan Pardesy's black and white collection.

The inclusion of Adnan Pardesy in Ensemble second showing shows that with retailers stepping in to up the fashion ante, talent will find platforms. Adnan is more about the craft of fashion than the business of it and that has shown through both in his shoots and on the runway. Even at Ensemble Avenue, he showed that he has flair with the stiff skirts and tights combined with Mary Jane shoes that made a definite statement. When he starts stocking at Ensemble later this year, he promises a more wearable line. That he has shared the platform with his peers like Bunto Kazmi, Sana Safinaz and Rizwan Beyg means the world to him. That he will be stocking at a store with them, means even more. This in itself is a milestone in Pakistani fashion, which gets a bad rap for being an industry that recognises talent on the basis of who they know as opposed to what they know.

One must mention the sponsors. One appreciates that Unilever is sponsoring platforms like the Lux Style Awards, the Carnival De Couture and the Ensemble shows in turn are strengthening local fashion brands. That they do this in a very dignified way without their branding being shoved down our throats is also laudatory. One wishes that other companies would take note of how they are playing the sponsorship game. Branding by association is far more desirable that which is in your face - the latter actually has the power to put you off a product/brand for life!
And one last note, the prêt collection Tarun Tahiliani is stocking at Ensemble these days was also shown, but the less said about it the better. The second seasonal show of Ensemble was too phenomenal and too historical for Pakistani fashion for one to analyse where Tarun Tahiliani is going wrong; it seems a far better idea to end right here.