The region of Campania in Italy is famous for its gorgeous landscape, spring-like climate and fertile soil. The Romans fondly called it Campania felix (fruitful Campania) due to its assorted attractions such as the city of Naples -- famous for its lively and artistic atmosphere; the breathtaking Amalfi Coast and Sorrento Peninsula; and the imposing Mt. Vesuvius surrounded by archaeological finds.

I came here to visit Pompeii -- the archeological and natural wonder that is one of Italy's leading tourist attractions and a UNESCO World Heritage Site. Pompeii, located 24km (15 miles) south of Naples has the best preserved 2,000-year-old ruins in Europe. It was inhabited by the Greeks and the Samnites before it became a Roman colony. The volcanic eruption of Mount Vesuvius in 79 A.D. buried the city under many feet of volcanic ash and debris it and was lost for 1,600 years before its accidental rediscovery in 1700s.

The best way to visit Pompeii is to take the Circumvesuviana train from Naples to Sorrenta (via Pompeii). The site of the ruins is a 163 acre expanse of tremendous historical significance, that enables millions of visitors to experience one of the most striking legacies of the ancient world. Most of Pompeii's streets and buildings, including temples, theatres, shops, homes and public baths have been uncovered. There are also wall murals and floor mosaics depicting everyday life. Numerous artefacts unearthed from here, many of them now in museums, give travellers an accurate picture of life during the Roman era.

A great number of people making their way through the gates of Pompeii's ruins are first-time visitors. Depending upon the weather and your stamina for walking it is possible to explore Pompeii in a single day; alternatively, get a three-day pass and explore at leisure.

As soon as you pay the ticket price, you face a decision: take a guided tour, or walk around Pompeii independently? As a first-time visitor, it may be a good idea to take a tour, even though they tend to be expensive. The tours usually last an hour and if you feel comfortable doing so, it is customary to tip the guide at the end. Don't feel compelled to leave as soon as your tour ends; since you've paid a price to be in Pompeii take your time to wander around and revisit any spot that interested you earlier. However, if you decide to go it alone, you can pick up a free brochure that will direct you to a few sites you shouldn't miss.

The tour begins from the forum. In Roman times this was the epicentre of Pompeii's political, economic, religious and administrative life and served as a gathering place. Constructed as a large square with a podium, the forum is enclosed by colonnades and presents a spectacular view of Mt. Vesuvius. At this point of entrance there are slopes called Porta Marina, leading to the canal going down to the port. The Pansa House is situated here depicting the layout of a typical Pompiian house with an inner courtyard and a colonnaded garden. A must see treasure is the Villa dei Misteri (Villa of Mysteries), a superbly preserved aristocratic farmhouse built around gardens, arcades and courtyards. It has 55 rooms and is famous for beautiful paintings inspired by the Dionysiac mysteries that had happened here. Casa dei Vettii (House of Vettii) was our next stop. This house is full of very well preserved paintings, sculptures and various decorations and has magnificent rooms.

A peek into Roman family life is offered by the House of Apollo. The gardens are lovely, with frescoes of Ulysses and Achilles, and a little bedroom with a mosaic floor marks the exact position of the beds. Yet the most beautiful example of a Roman house is the House of the Faun, due to its elegant architecture and splendid mosaics. It is so called because it contained Pompeiiís most famous sculpture: the dancing faun. The sculpture in the courtyard is a copy; the original is in the Naples Archaeological Museum. This was the largest, and perhaps most refined house in town. As one explores, the luxurious lifestyle of the leisured classes becomes apparent, despite the passage of 20 centuries.

The Romans gratified their love for sports; the amphitheatre is an example. It is overwhelming and a befitting setting for the tearing apart of men and animals. Next to this is the huge sports arena Via della Palestra, where young men practiced discus-throwing and wrestling. It doubled as a slave market and barracks for gladiators. There are also the wonderfully preserved big theatre and little theatre, with seating for 5,000 and 1,300 respectively giving an idea of how seriously Pompeiians took their entertainment.

Finally, no Roman town is complete without its ancient baths! The Stabian Baths here have an outdoor pool for sports, and changing room with vaulted ceiling. The cold, warm and hot baths, are complete with murals and painted domes, with the most sophisticated heating system.

While walking around the grounds of Pompeii I tried to comprehend that this grand town was once completely buried by lava. Facing the storage area for artefacts proved to be the most disturbing part of my visit, as there are body casts of a pregnant young woman, a dog in agony, a couple lying together, and a mother holding her child. These castsí expressions narrate the horrifying and deaths they suffered on the terrible day when this bustling city was destroyed forever.

Saddar is the undisputed city centre of Karachi. It was designed and developed as such by the British during their stay which stretched over more than a century. Shopping is included among essential activities for which citizens flock to the city centre. Exclusive buildings and urban spaces are created in the city centre to facilitate these vital activities. The British developed many spaces and buildings to cater to these requirements. And the design and development of Empress Market was one of the significant achievements in this respect. Legend has it that the Empress Market was built on the site where several freedom fighters were blown from the mouth of canons by the British! In this reference, the market and its environs offer an opportunity for historians to discover the background details of the local episode of the war of independence fought in 1857.

Built in hybrid Gothic style, Empress Market was laid down on a simple rectilinear plan with a central courtyard space to facilitate retailing and circulation. In those days, most of the functional buildings were constructed across symmetrical plans along simple geometrical patterns. However the Empress Market also possesses an atrium which was a rare feature in the architectural compositions of those times. The 140 ft. high central tower is another crowning element that adds verticality of scale in the overall scheme. Fine stone detailing and facade treatment, all done by local craftsmen, was a worthwhile embellishing feature of the complex. Such was the workmanship of those times that the building and details are intact despite the present polluted surroundings and minimum maintenance.

The building was completed in 1889 and named as such to commemorate Queen Victoria, the then Empress of India. Many architectural historians describe this edifice as one of the finest buildings developed by Strachan -- the famous British engineer. At the time of its completion, the market was a posh space frequented by "mem sahibs" and "sahib bahadurs". For a very long time, Indians were not welcome in the market environs. It was the usual format of city planning and management in British colonial era. The European city, in which the Britishers lived and worked, used to be physically distinct from the old native city. Locals had their own daily life, cultural and social activities in the native city and its extensions. The European quarters were kept a quasi-restricted domain where the foreigners would hang out. Till partition and after, the same trend prevailed. The shops, stalls and kiosks in Empress Market -- which totaled over 300 in number -- gave a feel of a typical British setting even till the 1960s.

Locationally, Empress Market stands at the starting edge of Saddar area. Through Preedy Street, the edifice finds its connection to M.A. Jinnah Road. The other important streets that run on either side of the market are Dr. Daud Pota Road and Mansfield Street. A large bus depot, which was used by the defunct Karachi Transport Corporation, is located on the eastern flank of the market. Jehangir Park constitutes the western edge.

The market and its environs face several grave problems. Saddar has become a large transit camp where public buses, mini buses, coaches, wagons and different modes of para-transit converge. It has given rise to a drastic land use change in the surroundings. Hundreds of hawkers put up stalls and carts in different localities in Saddar/Artillary Maidan Quarters. Empress Market and its surroundings are also not spared from this change. Besides, the rising pollution has caused an increase in suspended carbon particles in the atmosphere, which also adversely affects the building facades. Pedestrian movement, social and cultural activities, access to Empress Market and the overall micro urban environment is negatively affected. In other words, the market and other elements of city centre seem to be losing their functional and architectural significance.

Some public spirited citizens have proposed several rejuvenation schemes in the past for dealing with the area's escalating problems. Empress Market Garden Project was created and mooted by Heritage Foundation in 1996 to develop an exclusive garden zone with pedestrian provisions only. Restoration and cleaning of Empress Market structure, re-routing of vehicular traffic, vehicular underpasses and lawns were some of the key components of this scheme. While the scheme was conceptualized on noble objectives, the approach and details were flawed. The most significant problem was the re-routing of traffic. More than half of city bus routes cross into Saddar/Empress Market zone. Unless a proper re-routing plan is worked out, shifting of hawkers or any similar attempt may not generate any result.

Empress Market and its precincts constitute an important status in the city centre as well as the overall city space. The area needs to be upgraded through an integrated approach. The structure and space of Empress Market must be restored under the guidance of a qualified restoration architect.