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heritage Exploring
the backwaters of Istanbul The memorial stones of great historical significance in Nagarparkar are being stolen and sent abroad By Zulfiqar Ali Kalhoro Journey through Nagarparkar
in Tharparkar is dotted with many Jain and Hindu temples as well as The memorial stones are erected for men who either died in battles or met with unnatural deaths and for Satis who immolated themselves either on the funeral pyre of their husbands or on hearing the news of their husbands' deaths in battle. The cult of Sati and hero worship is prevalent in Nagarparkar even today. Locally, these memorial stones are called Pariyo, Khambi and Khatri. Local community uses Pariyo only for the memorial stone of Jhujhars (headless hero) who died heroically such as defending a village against raiders or cattles against cattle-lifters or someone who died on the battlefield. Such stones have come to be called hero stones. Local people call these hero stones Jhujhar Jo Pario. Sati stones are called Sati Ji Khambi or Sati ni Khambi in Nagarparkar. "Khatri (memorial) is erected to honour those who died an accidental death, were murdered or for priests or heads of villages," explains Bheemo Rabari, a fifty year old resident of Mau Village, 5 km from Nagarparkar. Such stones are located at Khanpur near Nagarparkar town. The memorial stones
invariably face east and are divided into two sections; the upper featuring One also comes across the hero stones depicting camel riders. These stones unfailingly belong to the Rabari community, also a Hindu community. One such hero stone bearing camel rider is located at Sabusan. There are six hero stones at Sabusan. Barring one, all others depicting horse-riders belong to Seendal Rajputs. Only one hero stone bears the relief of camel rider and belongs to Rabari. The Rabaris are associated with camel breeding in Nagarparkar. The camel is also vehicle of Mammai, the most popular goddess of the Rabaris. Many temples of the Mammai goddess exist in different villages of Nagarparkar. However, the most popular is situated at Chanida village. The memorial stones also
bear many depictions of birds and flowers. The depictions of peacock are The depiction of lotus can also be found on various hero stones and Sati stones at Bodhesar, Surya Chand, Barerai, new Qasibo, old Qasibo, Ranpur, Mokrio, Berani, Churio, Veekasar villages. According to Mahraj, 64 year old camel-breeder of Sabusan village, 16 km from Nagarparkar "The lotus symbolises prosperity and fertility. Another symbol found on hero and Sati stones is Swastika -- a symbol of auspiciousness. Still another symbol sculpted on many memorials in Nagarparkar is linga, the phallic emblem associated with Shiva. "It shows that the deceased was the devotee of Shiva. One finds the symbol of linga on memorials located at Sura Chand, Rana Sar, and Hara Sar villages," says Mahio Rabari, a 51 year old camel-breeder of Sakhpur village. Sati can be seen holding
waterpot in one hand and rosary in the other. While on other stones, one "Sati-memorials sometimes have depictions of naked arm or an armful of bangles. The representations of raised arms with bangles are found on two of Sati stones at old Qasibo," says Anchal Singh Seedal Rajput, one of the elders of Sabusan village. There are two such memorials in Nagarparkar carrying the motif of raised arm and figure of Sati at Bodhesar and Khanpur near Nagarparkar. "At times the images of both Sati and her husband are seen on the same stone. The husband is shown as a mounted warrior on horse while Sati stands on his right with her hands joined, others are either holding pot or carrying objects. Such motifs can be found on one of the memorial stones commemorating both husband and wife at Khanpur near Nagarparkar town," informs Anchal Singh Seendal Sodho of Sabusan village. According to Ismail Kumbhar of Churio village, a warrior with a sword and shield riding a horse is most frequently depicted on hero stones in Nagarparkar. In the topmost panel of the stone, the sun on the left and moon on the right are depicted. Some of the memorial stones bearing the representations of horse-riding warriors are located in the villages of Adigam, Ranpur, Fethapur, Churio, Berarai, Sabusan I, Sabusan II, new Qasibo old Qasibo, Mokrio, Harasar, Veeksar etc. Khetoji Sodho of Oran Jo Wandhio village believes that usually the hero stones bear the relief of a horse rider in Nagarparkar. Nawaz Ali Khoso is a 72 year old retired government employee. It is believed by many that no one knows Nagarparker better than him. When inquired he told the scribe that when two brothers or any two members of the family die together in the battle, their memorial stones are erected at one place. In this case, hero stone depicts two horse riders together. Such hero stones depicting two horse riders on the same stone are located in the villages of Sabusan, Surachand, Churio, and Mithi veri. The condition of the memorial stones located in different villages of Nagarparkar is pathetic. The stealing and whisking away of the monuments continues unabated. Of late, an attempted theft of memorial stones at old Qasibo went unnoticed and unreported like other such incidents. The culprits are either local people or outsiders who sell these stones abroad. Some of the hero stones at Oran Jo Wandhio have been damaged by local people. The broken hero stones lie at Sabusan, apparently damaged by local people either in an attempt of stealing or sheer vandalism. One also finds badly damaged Sati stone in Berani village. The broken pieces of the Sati stone are scattered over the site. The destroyed hero stones can also be seen near the pond in Adigam village. The least the authorities can do is appoint night watchmen to look after the memorial stones located in different villages. In this way, we can protect these pieces of heritage from theft and vandalism. Furthermore, they should renovate some of the monuments located at Sabusan, Sura Chand, Oran Jo Wandhio and old Qasibo villages which lie in pathetic condition and are fast falling to pieces. In order to check further decay and destruction of the visual heritage, the concerned authorities should chalk out a strategy as soon as possible.
Exploring
the backwaters of Istanbul By Masume Hidayatullah There are rewards aplenty
for getting off the beaten track in Istanbul -- city of golden light and Sights in this article come with a recommendation for a breezy pitstop and a cup of soothing Turkish tea served in an elegant glass cup. The tea-stop is an essential follow up to any discovery in Istanbul. Make eye contact with the waiter, have a chat. They have good English and want to learn more. Istanbul is a city of migrants. A brief chat with any Turk invariably reveals ancestry from Central Asia, Russia, Iran. The breeze is 'free' and comes in off the sea and is at its best in a shady piazza in the shadow of an ancient building. Kucuk Aya Sofya (the Little Church of Holy Wisdom) was commissioned in the 6th as a 'practice run' for the legendary Aya Sofya and its 98-foot diameter dome that is structural poetry for today's engineers and architects. It was converted into a mosque around 1500 and has been recently restored with more than a nod to its Byzantine origins -- its starkly white walls have frescoes splashed with Aegean blue. A similar blue has been used for the luxurious prayer carpet. Sunlight spills in and a refreshing sea breeze comes in through the front door; it is a place to meditate, contemplate or just enjoy the serenity of the space. Whilst it is a mosque for the local neighbourhood visitors of any denomination can visit and enjoy. Turkey is welcome to all to
celebrate its past and present. Shawls are available for women. There is Mimar Sinan paid tribute to his patron Suleiman the Magnificent with his greatest work of architecture Sulemaniye Mosque and complex. The Mosque straddles the highest of Istanbul's seven hills like a colossus, visible from miles away. In scale and location, it is a fitting tribute to the Sultan who took the Turks to the gates of Vienna in 1529, and whose legal codification and administrative skills ensured that his legacy survived 350 years after his death. Suleiman was Sovereign of Sovereigns, and Sinan was king of location and orientation. The views from the garden over the Golden Horn are breathtaking at sunset and the graveyard which includes Suleiman and Sinan's tombs is a very peaceful place to spend a few moments in the late evening sunshine. Locals come to take the air and children play in the evenings -- confirming the accessibility of Sinan's grandeur. The nearest tea stop is at either Daruzziyafe (a cafe located in the soup kitchen built for the mosque -- check out the huge marble 'freezers' from the 16th century!) or Lale Bahchesi -- a hangout for students from nearby Istanbul university. Misr Bazaar or Spice Bazaar has been the place for spices since the 1660s -- so named for the exotic cargoes arriving from Egypt at the port. Located at the transport hub of Eminonu, it's a buzzing place at any time of the day. Local housewives, commuters on their way home, tourist groups all come through here. Each year, the main drag of the Bazaar gets less 'spicey' and more tourist-oriented in its wares -- the remaining spice sellers have high prices. The shops where Turks are buying their provisions are slowly edging out of the main bazaar. Go in through the main entrance, advance into the market and take the first right to exit out of the Bazaar along Hasircilar Caddesi toward the Rustem Pasha Mosque. The second right off Hasircilar leads to Kahve Dunyasi on the waterfront which has outside tables screened by plants... enjoy an iced coffee and the sea breeze coming off the Golden Horn. The government ferry service called Bosphorus Ferry plies its way daily up the Bosphorus to Anadolu Kavagi. It is one of the most relaxing ways to spend a day in Istanbul. It takes about 90 minutes each way and stops on both the European and Asian sides along the way. The passengers are a mixture of relieved tourists who managed to dodge touts selling tourist excursions and residents of Istanbul taking a day out. The open plan seating promotes friendly conversations, not just between tourists but also with local residents. There is a tea station on the boat (the waiter comes around with a tea tray) -- enjoy a 'cuppa' on the open upper deck. Anadolu Kavagi is a small town with a few streets. The best fish restaurants are nearest the dock -- the seafood is very fresh. There is a hilltop fort just outside the village affording splendid views; the fort and lunch will require at least a three hour stop, requiring an early start from Eminonu. The return ferry to Istanbul stops at beautiful villages en route. however, the best plan is to stay on the boat all the way to Eminonu (stops are not included in the ticket price). Getting off the tourist trail in Istanbul can be a highly rewarding experience. Leave the guide book at home, follow instincts not road maps. During daylight Istanbul is a safe, vibrant and enjoyable city, best enjoyed from the vantage point of a tea shop with a view and a light breeze.
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memorial stones. These stones are objects of veneration for Hindus living in
the area. Most of them belong to Sodha Rajputs who ruled over Nagarparkar.
carved motif and the lower bearing a brief inscription. Mostly, the memorial
stones in Nagarparkar have the sun and the moon carved on their upper
sections. The sun is carved with distinct rays, and occasionally has a human
face, while moon may be represented either full or crescent-shaped and
recumbent. Sun with a human face is depicted on one of the hero stones
located at Khanpur near the Nagarparkar town. The interpretation of these
carvings, according to the locals, is that as long as the sun and moon
remain, these people will be remembered thus symbolising eternity.
also found on some of the memorials, particularly those located at Qasibo and
Mithi Veri villages. Apart from that, one also finds the depictions of
peacock on the memorial stone of Rawoji at old Mondaro. Rawoji Sodho was the
husband of Phool Bai Sati whose memorial stone stands close to Phool Bai.
Peacock representations can also be found on many memorials located at
Sabusan, Kharerio, Sura Chand, Ranpur, Oran Jo Wandhio and a Sati stone at
Bodhesar villages. "The peacock is a symbol of beauty and
prosperity," says Devo Rabari, 60 of Mondaro located about 10 km from
Nagarparkar.
only finds women holding waterpots. "It stands for their spirituality
and righteousness," believes Bhoro Rabari of Lakhar Khadyo village. Such
depictions are found on sati stones at Khanpur near Nagarparkar town, old
Qasibo, Bodhesar, Mokrio and old Mondaro villages.
sparkling blue waters. The Istanbul A-list is Aya Sofia, Topkapi Palace
complex, the Blue Mosque, the Grand Bazaar. Each A-lister has a parallel
listing, a less touristy way to get closer to Turkish people, their history
and culture.
a shady courtyard (formerly the mosque complex of madrassa, hamam) with a tea
garden and artisanal workshops; dappled sunshine and a magical sea breeze
from the Sea of Marmara combine to perfect this secluded spot.