instep

review

Deconstructing Mehdi's
Vanity Fair
Being a PSFD graduate, Mehdi comes with an understanding of the craft of fashion but he is still struggling with finding an aesthetic to call his own.
By Maheen Sabeeh
Last week Mehdi held his first fashion show in Karachi. A PSFD graduate from Lahore, this was an important show as not only was this his debut in Karachi but it was also a grand affair that began in Lahore, traveled through Karachi and landed its finale in Islamabad. After one hour and over 80 outfits later, the collection titled Vanity Fair, came across as a mixed bag.

instep
review
No message in this bottle

Dedicated to the colour red – the colour of love and revolution, Botal Gali is neither lovely nor revolutionary.

By Rahma Muhammad
An advertising man, Shahzad Nawaz knows how to sell his products in style. The attention to detail in packaging the invitation to Botal Gali was faultlessly meticulous. The invite came in a bottle, with a sheet that provided the run through of the plot and the main characters. Shahzad is also aware of the punctuality averse nature of the Pakistani audience.

In the picture
Yun Hota To Kya Hota***1/2

*ing Paresh Rawal, Ratna Pathak Shah, Konkona Sen Sharma, Jimmy Shergill, Ayesha Takia, Irrfan Khan.
Directed by Naseeruddin Shah
The fact that Yun Hota To Kya Hota is Naseeruddin Shah's directorial debut makes this film a must see without even going into the reasons why. And it doesn't disappoint. As different from the currently running box-office hit Kabhi Alvida Na Kehna as chalk and cheese, Yun Hota is just as riveting, perhaps more for people who wish to see cinema move beyond big budgets, expensive sets and exotic locations.

starbytes
Munna Bhai on trial
Sanjay Dutt is riding the wave of popularity these days - his latest release Lage Raho Munna Bhai is a mammoth hit getting raving reviews, described by the box office as a super hit. And yet the 'super' hero has decided to put his career on hold until he is cleared of the case that has run for over thirteen years, making it the longest-running criminal trial in India. Dutt is charged with possession of arms under the Terrorist and Anti-Disruptive Activities (Prevention) Act and the Arms Act. 

Musical Notes
Sain Zahoor beats out others at BBC World Music Awards '06.
This year at the BBC World Music Awards 2006, Sain Zahoor From Pakistan won an award in the category of Best Music - Asia Pacific. For the uninformed, Sain Zahoor hails from the breed of street musicians. Since his first debut performance at APMC (All Pakistan Music Conference) in 1989, Sain has never looked back.

Style watch
Deepak Perwani shoots off the mouth
In a televised interview with Munib Nawaz, Deepak Perwani literally shot from the hip about what he thought of "Lahore designers" and "Karachi designers". 

Flash
FASHION UPDATE
Paint it red
When has red lipstick not been stylish? This is probably one style that is a universal classic and is never out of fashion. But not many women are comfortable wearing it as supposedly red lipstick is considered very hard to carry. Where there might be some truth in that, it is not entirely the case. One just needs to be a little careful about how they wear it and with what.

 

instep
review

Deconstructing Mehdi's

Vanity Fair

By Maheen Sabeeh

Last week Mehdi held his first fashion show in Karachi. A PSFD graduate from Lahore, this was an important show as not only was this his debut in Karachi but it was also a grand affair that began in Lahore, traveled through Karachi and landed its finale in Islamabad. After one hour and over 80 outfits later, the collection titled Vanity Fair, came across as a mixed bag. It was interesting as well as confusing, well cut though unnecessarily over embellished and trendy in some outfits, though  far too commercial in most. In a nutshell, Vanity Fair running through various segments and a string of themes was a collection designed to attract every possible buyer in three different cities with three very different style sensibilities.

The beginning of the show had impact as a masqueraded figure (Mehreen Syed) walked in wearing a delicately embellished silver and bronze blouse paired with a fully blown organza skirt. The punch came with the huge Versace inspired mask that hid the model's face thus adding an air of mystery to the show. Unfortunately this mystery was never really solved. Mehdi went through a black segment, into beige, over candy floss pastels and landed pat on the bridals that he is popular for in Lahore. 

One saw Mehdi play with the classic black palette and with fluffy skirts, jackets and long sleek black dresses - Mehdi's experimentation came out in full force. It was apparent that he had control over the silhouette. However, it was the over embellishment of every outfit that took away the oomph. Where a black skirt - worn by Vinny - had a perfect fall, it was the odd attachment of a row of silver sequins that ruined it. The same error was repeated in a tomato red ensemble worn by Iman that seemed made from rows of tassles. It would have been cutting edge had it not been for the three silver circles embellished on the bodice.

  After black, it was beige that took center stage. In this segment, few outfits really shone but one outfit that was simply gorgeous was a beige long skirt topped with dull golden top and a big collar. A chiffon skirt topped with a beige sleeveless top with minimal works on neckline and bottom worn by Iman was another good one. The fit and fall of both the garments was perfect. More hope came along when Iraj sashayed onto the ramp in a chiffon beige long jacket and dull pink pants. The jacket had long running sleeves and was worked very subtly with small beads and ornamentation.

And then came the colours. Mehdi played with shades of bright hues such as pinks, blues, and moved onto darker shades such as red among many others. Short tops, cropped pants, long dresses - this was a very simple line. There was nothing new or fashionably groundbreaking about these clothes.  There were really few outfits that had a fresh feel to them. And the ones that did were too few. One outfit that stood out was a gray top - worn by Rubya Chaudry - paired with baby pink pants.

  Unfortunately, wearable and gorgeous outfits were few and far between. The last segment of the collection was dominated by bridal wear that were overworked and mismatched in terms of colour combinations. For instance, why would anyone want to wear a light shade of teal with shocking pink? Moreover, the bridal joras had nothing new to offer. These outfits can be found all over Pakistan and that too at a much cheaper price. A few saris in the same segment were worth a second glance. Almost all of them had a perfect fitted blouse. When it came to pants, Mehdi was on the ball. The fitting and fall was again perfect. But sadly, these were the only highlights of an otherwise garish collection.

One also saw a few menswear outfits in the collection. In simple words, they were bad. Transparent kurtas, deep necklines, heavy embellishment, golden and silver sequins and stones - it was too garish. In particular, a shocking pink kurta paired with blue pants and maroon shawl - worn by Emaad Irfani - was totally off. The kurta was too embellished and was simply tacky. Throughout the menswear line, this was apparent. It was as if there was no thought behind these outfits that could knit them into one cohesive collection. 

Mehdi played it safe with Vanity Fair. His use of embellishment shows that he is looking to cater to the bridal wear maket and therein lies Mehdi's problem. He has the professional credentials and the clout via brother Shahzad Raza, but Vanity Fair showed an obvious reluctance to defy the conventions of what people wear. Mehdi has not put his own thought into his collection. He's taken a bit of everything that sells and made a bunch of outfits accordingly. The collection was such a mixed bag that one fashion critic at the show rechristened it the Cassata Collection.

If anything, the only consolation came with the fact that Mehdi had some of his basics right. This man showed that he knows how to cut, the importance of a perfectly fitted sari blouse and with those jackets, it became clear that Mehdi has it in him to twist and experiment with clothes and churn out some very interesting and wearable clothes. Special mention must be made of his skirts, that were the fashion highlight of the evening.

Now that Pakistan Fashion Week is the latest buzz in the fashion world, the focus of this collection should have been towards ready-to-wear. Minimal embellishment, experimentation and twisting tradition in a funky way would've made Vanity Fair a collection to remember. One has seen numerous PSFD designers do so; Karma and Nomi Ansari being two great examples. Mehdi is from the breed of new designers coming into the fashion field. It is imperative that he realize that kaam isn't the way to take fashion forward.

Vanity Fair featured all the top models of Pakistan. Vinny, Iraj, Iman, Tanya Shafi - being the brother of Shehzad Raza definitely has its perks. Unfortunately for Mehdi, these perks come with a catch. Outsiders see Mehdi's success as a sign of his brother's name. This is where Mehdi has to draw a line. His brother should not define his identity as a designer.

The make up done by Shehzad - the Gucci look, dark eyes, pale lips always works. The hair however was a blast from the past we would rather forget. Our mothers had bouffants and used fake hair pieces but at the show they were enough to make women in the audience resolve that the look would never come back. The hair was archaic and so was the music, which ranged from Schiller to Eastern classical.

The show reeked of the sameness that comes with the dearth of new ideas and influences. The Ather Shahzad trademark of  making women look beautiful in a very Barbie comes to Pakistan way could be seen at the show. If Mehdi truly wants to make it big, he needs to diversify. And looking at the potential he has, it would be tragic if he becomes embroiled in the politics of the fashion wars raging these days.

Yes, Ather-Shehzad are one of the biggest fashion photographers in the country but the fact is that with the exception of Nomi Ansari, no other designer from Karachi showed up. The first major show after the Lux Style Awards, one could see once again the divide in the industry. It was a far cry from the Saadia Mirza show earlier this year, when Karachi designers had turned out in full force. Mehdi may find that working only with his brother may close as many avenues for him as it will open.

Everything else about this show was worth a notice. Held at Marriott Hotel, as an event, the setting for Mehdi's debut in Karachi was almost perfect. Ushers guided people to their tables. Instead of a buffet that is common at fashion shows, this show boasted of an elegant sit down dinner. The ramp was straight, making it easier for people to get a good look at the clothes.

The introduction by Sofia Shahid - Vice President of Media and Communications at Marriott Hotel  left much to be desired. The length of her self congratulatory speech about  Marriott was uncalled for, especially when she boasted that Marriott is reviving qawwali in Pakistan. Hotels can stake a claim over their events, but they really shouldn't go so far to claim the propagation of our culture. Just like designers shouldn't rely on their brothers to take them forward.

If Mehdi wants to be a designer in the truest sense of the word, he needs to establish his own identity. And to do so it is imperative that he walks with others by his side than brother dearest.

 

instep
review
No message in this bottle

An advertising man, Shahzad Nawaz knows how to sell his products in style. The attention to detail in packaging the invitation to Botal Gali was faultlessly meticulous. The invite came in a bottle, with a sheet that provided the run through of the plot and the main characters. Shahzad is also aware of the punctuality averse nature of the Pakistani audience. Knowing people will not come on time, the invite said 8 o' clock, but the screening was actually scheduled for 8:30. However, the few who did arrive at the said time, could do nothing but curse themselves for doing so. The Arts Council Auditorium was empty. As people started trickling in to be received by the waiting camera crews, the man of the night who scripted, directed and produced the film played host to a mix of television celebrities.

The night's proceedings actually began at 9:15, when Aijazz Aslam, who plays one of the main characters in Botal Gali, came on stage to introduce the film. He thankfully, kept his part short and asked senior scriptwriter Dr Anwer Sajjad, who analysed Botal Gali's script to give the keynote address. The movie was yet to begin, as after the address the co producers and sponsors were called on stage to be given mementos. Obviously, all of them had a few words to say which were mostly praises for Shahzad Nawaz and his work. After endless thankyous, the audience began its journey through Botal Gali at long last.

The film began with a sharp monologue by Anjum Shahzad, who is the conscience of the character Babu, played very well by Akhter Qayyum. So far so good, the opening credits were gripping, with excellent graphics and good Urdu prose. That impression, unfortunately didn't last long.

Set in Karachi, Botal Gali's plot gravitates around a bootlegger, Shahid, played by Shahzad Nawaz (Shahzad actually joked that since he invested the most, he got the biggest character) and the people he has to work with in his trade. From corrupt policemen who actually provide him with imported booze when his supply falls short, to rich clients and a model-actress girlfriend, Shahid is the strongest link in the complicated web of a 34 member cast. He buys an unknown brand of Vodka, Dante's with the help of his prodigy Zahid (Aijazz Aslam) from an excise sub inspector Malik (Shehzad Ali Khan) who had actually confiscated it in a raid. The bootlegging duo start selling this newest entrant into the illegal market left, right and centre.

Among their clients is Mickey (Sohail Hashmi) an ad agency owner with a bored stay at home trophy wife who are having a party to celebrate their wedding anniversary. Mickey invites his corporate clients to a night of networking over expensive Dante's cocktails. The other guests at the party are also from the corporate-advertising-media circuit. There is a flirtatious video director, MT played by Sohail Javed, a hot shot marketing director Zaman (Humayoun Saeed), his bitter wife Kishwer (Sonya Khan) who can't stand his drinking ways, aspiring models Hina (Myra Khan) and Ruksaar (Ayla Haq) who have to socialise with men they wouldn't look at otherwise to get work. Also present is Roop (Saima Qureshi), Shahid's girlfriend, who is cheating on him with a host of men (his faithful assistant Zahid included). She also doubles as a mujra dancer for retired government officials and power brokers. Dancing on a white chandni, while many Mr Money Bags shower her with money, Roop is eyeing possible customers for the night. These men are a sharp contrast to those at Mickey's  party. They might not be at ease at the dance floor but prefer their traditional way of enjoying the world's oldest profession and intoxicant.

Like Daira, Shahzad Nawaz's debut, Botal Gali relies on shock value, but falls flat. The characters might sound interesting but they are not well etched out. As a result, they are reduced to little more than cliches. The rich housewife obsessed with the way she looks while her husband is having an affair. A real estate developer who likes the 'show' in showbiz and invests in TV plays to have access to actresses and models. The worst was probably the American photojournalist, Amy (Heather Mroczkowski) in great mental pain, questioning the hypocrisy of Pakistani society in general and the lifestyle of Karachi's elite and nouveau rich in particular. Desperate in search for that vague story, Amy finds herself being advised on Pakistani society by Sheikh Amer Hasan, who is basically playing himself, a man who lives in an apartment that he insists on calling a villa. One day she finally does come across a man with the perfect story, Babu. Babu is a disturbed former merchant in the city's botal gali who scavenges empty alcohol bottles, something he has been doing for eight years. He considers himself a saviour of these bottles, his only companions. Babu perplexes Amy when he refuses to be "an artifact for goras". When she offers him a hundred rupee note, Babu responds, "I am a citizen of this country, not a ruler that I need your charity," and tears the note.

The script is very strong and engaging at some points but mostly it fails to hold. There are some very witty jokes that were received with much applause. The highlight of the script was probably the scenes where three old friends Bazmi, Naushad and Sikandar, played extremely well by seasoned actors, Khalid Ahmed, Raju Jamil and Shehryar Zaidi respectively, discuss the business of drinking. Naushad is completely opposed to drinking and argues incessantly with his well-read friends. During the course of a brief drinking session, dinner and the ride back home the trio discuss it all - Bhutto's politics, the political imprisonment of Faiz and Ghalib's unorthodox belief.

The story has exceptional potential but the excess of stereotypical characters and confused editing, make the two hour and 45 minute long movie an ordeal. Botal Gali fails to move even though it has all the essential ingredients to make it a hit. There is an excellent idea - the bootlegging business in a city where alcohol is banned but still flows excessively, a great sound track and an interesting script that has some very bright moments. Unfortunately, even with the best of resources at his disposal, Shahzad fails to produce a film strong enough to make a mark in Pakistani parallel cinema let alone a cinematic gem. The editing is especially poor, its the cut and jump style of filmmaking. The many storylines that run through the film needed clear and intelligent editing, which is not what they got. 

Credit is due for ideas and the high points of the script. Botal Gali must also be commended for portraying through a mass medium an interesting segment of Pakistani society, where the newly rich are trying to come to terms with the lifestyle of the already rich and famous. 

Having achieved cult status even before its release (thanks to smart marketing) one went with high expectations, even though Shahzad Nawaz's last (and only) directorial venture, Daira, left a lot to be desired. But yet again Shahzad fails to entertain, succeeding only as an excellent marketeer.

 

The fact that Yun Hota To Kya Hota is Naseeruddin Shah's directorial debut makes this film a must see without even going into the reasons why. And it doesn't disappoint. As different from the currently running box-office hit Kabhi Alvida Na Kehna as chalk and cheese, Yun Hota is just as riveting, perhaps more for people who wish to see cinema move beyond big budgets, expensive sets and exotic locations. Yun Hota is a film that tells the story of several different characters as opposed to several different stars, bringing them together on the fateful day of September, 11 2001. The reality of the tragic ending validates the realness of the characters, making them victims of a story that has 'true story' proportions.

The Wife: The newlywed Tillotima (Konkona Sen) and Hemant (Jimmy Shergill), have to part as Hemant must return to his work assignment in the US. He leaves his bride behind to tend to his overbearing family, applying for her visa that should take a year. But as circumstances become more and more unbearable back home, Tillo reapplies, takes the sindoor out of her forehead for the visa interview and gets her passport stamped on the pretext that she is a single woman visiting relatives in the States.

The Illegal Immigrant: In another situation is Rajubhai Patel (Paresh Rawal), a Gujrati businessman who assists in transporting men and women over to America. He recruits all applicants in his faux dance troupe and takes them in groups. A character bordering on greedy comic, Rajubhai softens up when his old flame Tara (Ratna Pathak Shah) comes to send off her daughter. The dragon becomes a darling, he forgoes his hefty fee and takes the young girl under his paternal wing.

The student: Rahul, Khushboo and their group of friends are stereotypical reps of an MTV generation, except for the eccentric jokester (Imaad Shah, Naseeruddin's son) who is thoroughly patriotic. Holding a scholarship to study in America, Rahul sets off after his ailing father passes away and he is left with no reason to be tied down in India, except perhaps the love he quietly harbours for Khushboo. Leaving his impoverished life behind, he leaves for the land of opportunities.

The Fugitive: Running away from the betrayal he has suffered at the hands of his secret affair with the older Namrata (Suhasini Mulay), stockbroker Salim (Irrfan Khan) hastens off to New York before schedule when he witnesses the murder of a high profile cop and fears being caught as a suspect too. Haunted by images of seeing Namrata, an exotic dancer, with another man, he stands at an office window of the World Trade Centre as the aircraft horrifically swerves towards him.

The characters are people most of us know, or have crossed at some point in life. As a storyteller, Naseeruddin Shah has proven himself as brilliant as he is an actor and Yun Hota brings four very interesting though different short stories together for a united ending. But despite the flight of the film being smooth, the climax isn't as fulfilling as it could have been. Scenes of the actual incident have been hastened through, leaving emotions running high and left dry. So since the story is historical, it's the characters that one remembers in Yun Hota. By refusing to cast stars, Naseeruddin Shah has chosen the road less traveled in Bollywood – the tougher path – but it surely has the potential to become the road leading to Shah's success as a director.

 

– Aamna Haider Isani

 

*YUCK

**WHATEVER

***GOOD

****SUPER

*****AWESOME

 

Munna Bhai on trial

Sanjay Dutt is riding the wave of popularity these days - his latest release Lage Raho Munna Bhai is a mammoth hit getting raving reviews, described by the box office as a super hit. And yet the 'super' hero has decided to put his career on hold until he is cleared of the case that has run for over thirteen years, making it the longest-running criminal trial in India. Dutt is charged with possession of arms under the Terrorist and Anti-Disruptive Activities (Prevention) Act and the Arms Act. He is also suspected of entertaining gangsters Anees Ibrahim, brother of Dawood Ibrahim, and Abu Salem, when they visited his house on a January evening in 1993. Subsequently he is being linked with the 1993 blasts in Mumbai that killed over 250 people. He has denied the charges but may still land up in jail for anything ranging from life imprisonment to a minimum of five years. Dutt has already spent 16 months in jail and is currently out on bail. The verdict has started rolling in but it may be months before it is completed. Till then Sanjay has decided not to sign any new film and is busy these days completing the ongoing projects. "Sanjay has informed his producers that he can't shoot till the verdict is out. He is not in the right frame of mind. He has also decided not to sign any new films," said a source close to Sanjay. If Sanjay is in a dilemma, his producers are in a fix - especially those whose shooting is midway. There is an estimated 150 crore at risk in Bollywood if he is convicted. Fingers crossed, we hope to see the much loved Munna Bhai a free man.

 

Karan Johar to judge beauties with brains

From film maker to talk show host and now judging the 56th Miss World contest in Poland on the 30th of September, it seems Karan Johar is becoming more and more versatile with time. He will be the first Indian filmmaker to sit in the judges panel, selecting the most beautiful woman in the world. Not to say he has no experience – K.Jo has been on the panel of judges for Femina Miss India a couple of times. In Toronto for KANK screening he commented, "I'm flattered to have been chosen. Although I've been quite a regular as a judge at beauty contests in India, this is my first brush with a global beauty pageant. I guess Indian cinema has gone global, and so have I. Suddenly we're being seen as part of a larger ground reality. I hope I can handle it," he laughs. Global it sure is, as Johar recently released Kabhi Alvida Na Kehna at the Toronto Film Festival and after Miss World will head from Poland to Germany for the German release of KANK and then to Japan for the Tokyo Film Festival where his film will be screened.

   

Kareena wants to marry Shahid!

Kareena Kapoor in a recent interview finally declared that she only wants to marry Shahid Kapur but they don't plan to tie the knot within the next few years. Speaking to the press, she commented, "I'll most definitely marry Shahid, I'm not the kind to jump from one relationship to another. For me, love is for keeps." Kareena and Shahid have also worked in films together but so far their onscreen chemistry has failed to ignite any fire as proven in the recent flop Chupke Chupke. These days, Kareena Kapoor is in news for her seduction scene with Shahrukh Khan in Don and winning the prestigious Smita Patel Memorial Award. Whether Kareena lights the fire or fizzles out remains to be seen but as long as she's not getting married (and that too to Shahid Kapur), there is hope for her – yet!

 

Brad Pitt takes up the gay cause

Brad Pitt is in the news again but this time it's thankfully not for the Angelina affair but for saying some very weird things. In a recent interview Brad declared that "Angie and I will consider tying the knot when everyone else in the country who wants to be married is legally able." There's been much scorn for Brad's sudden wave of social activism for gay rights. After all, will he also refuse to fly in a private jet because not all Americans have the privilege of that luxury? We just can't see Pitt flying commercial, now can we? Then he's been attacking fellow actors, making fun of Mel Gibson while pulling a stupid face for photographers at the Toronto Film Festival. Brad joked: "That's the picture that's going to end up when I have a breakdown or something, when I get arrested for a DUI late at night, make racial slurs or something." In another instance, he's been making great confessions of love for his three children, two of whom are adopted. He is saying that he won't let them see some of the films he's done for their violent content. "Oh my God," he said, "What did I do? What are they gonna see? Films from the past, I start making that list and it's like, 'Oh'. It definitely colours what I'll approach in the future. I'll try to be a little bit more mature about my decisions." We think he should also get a little bit more mature about what he says.

 

Anna Nicole's son dies

Anna Nicole Smith's 20 year old son, Daniel, died three days after she gave birth to her daughter in the Bahamas. He was visiting her in the hospital when he 'suspiciously' passed away. Smith woke up to find the boy not breathing and insisted on resuscitation efforts, despite the boy being pronounced dead. Daniel Smith was the son of Anna Nicole and Bill Smith, who married in 1985 and divorced two years later. The Playmate reportedly had to be put under heavy sedation as she suffered extreme shock and partial memory loss. Anna is now supporting a detailed probe into how her son died in the hospital. "She fully wants this process to take place and she wishes the public to not jump to conclusions and to wait for the conclusion of the proceedings," said Michael Scott, her lawyer. The boy was cleared of having drugs or anti-depressants in his system but alcohol he consumed on the flight to the Bahamas a night earlier is being investigated. Anna Nicole, recently moved to the Bahamas to avoid the intense media scrutiny in the United States and the father of her newborn has yet to be disclosed.

 

 

 

I remember for ages I thought film and music critics had a God given right of determining what's kosher for consumption or purchase. Partly, I just assumed they were qualified for the job; so I just blindly listened to them. Maybe there was some institute that helped teach to determine which kinds of art were halal for purchase and which weren't?

After all, the newspapers gave the music critics a job, they would know right?

Well the truth is most people who write about music will know much less than someone who attended one semester at a music school (me included). Mostly music critics are just fans who never grew out of their obsession for music and endlessly discussing it. Add to this a passion for writing and a modest gift for it; you get a bona fide music critic.

And that's the real truth about being a music columnist or critic, he or she is just a consumer who has been given a voice through a medium, like this newspaper for example.

This understanding of the critic as privileged consumer dents the notion that music critics are infallible arbiters of artistic merit. But still, in my own experience from interacting with viewers of OTF, you will get people asking you what kind of music is 'good' and what is 'bad'.

What they are really asking is, what's the right opinion to have?

Now frankly, that's sad. No one should tell you what opinion to hold, you have to come to your own conclusions.

Generally I think it's safe to say we collectively allow others to make our decisions for us. The mullah, your parents, your teachers: everyone seems to think for you, except you. Behaviour like this is common in religious and patriarchal societies. Add to these common obstacles of thought the music critic to the list if you blindly follow their advice.

But, a note of caution.

This doesn't mean what the critic has to say is pedestrian either. In Pakistan we have music critics who weave together fabrics of analysis, like sociology and history. In some ways the articles actually become the first drafts of cultural anthropology. That's nothing less than fantastic. 

And, frankly articles about music or entertainment are entertainment. You read them to enjoy them, and in most cases you read to get a trusted opinion on buying something.

So does this skinny on the art of music criticism actually forebode genocide on the value of such work?

Not at all. This answers something most musicians get absolutely wrong when they try to discredit the work of those who comment on their work.

The musicians retort to the work of critics is always about how little the critic knows, and most usually ask if they are qualified at all on writing on music. But that's precisely the value of the music critic.

As an outsider the music critic is not lost to the myopia of musicians who become more and more inward as they reach greater heights. Stevie Wonder has spent years learning increasingly complex time signatures of jazz, and so much so he isn't producing music because nothing is good enough for him anymore. And to tell you the truth, the only people who will notice the difference of his musical mastery will be other musicians.

That's why Pakistani musicians get so irked when the critics pan their work, especially if they are virtuosos on their instruments.

The musician will only be satisfied if the reviewer is John Petrucchi, Vai or another prodigy. But even if that were the case I am sure if you looked at the playlists these guys have on their mp3 players it would be music most of us don't like. They would all marvel at something really difficult to play but not necessarily something that people would want to hear.

There is no real musician's critic in Pakistan. But none have actually claimed to be so (I hope). Most are consumers who write about their passion, and some do so with an extraordinary precision and gift.

Whenever a 'music players' magazine comes out, as opposed to the 'music' magazines we already have, that's when we will find that the musician's gripe about getting people qualified for the job of writing about music will be valid.

 

Musical Notes

Sain Zahoor beats out others at BBC World Music Awards '06

This year at the BBC World Music Awards 2006, Sain Zahoor From Pakistan won an award in the category of Best Music - Asia Pacific. For the uninformed, Sain Zahoor hails from the breed of street musicians. Since his first debut performance at APMC (All Pakistan Music Conference) in 1989, Sain has never looked back. Known as the 'King', he began his career at the age of 5. Today at 60, Sain Zahoor continues to travel and perform at international music festivals. Interestingly, he wasn't the only one competing from Pakistan at BBCWMA. Losing out to Sain Zahoor was Faiz Ali Faiz, another classical great of Pakistan. Coming from a family of qawwals, Faiz is known for his ability to sing with as much versatility as legendary Nusrat Fateh Ali Khan. Faiz will also be featured at this year's Ramadan Nights at Barbican Soul Festival. These musicians may not have pirate copies of their albums floating in the music market but they certainly know how to represent Pakistan. Just for that, hats off to them. For more on Sain Zahoor and his album Awazay, do check out www.matteela.com. In the meantime, our heartiest congratulations to him! And all you hipsters out there, if you don't know who Sain Zahoor is, your hipness is in peril.

 

Jawad Ahmad goes to Bollywood

Following the footsteps of fellow musicians (Ali Azmat, Atif Aslam, Strings, RFAK), Jawad Ahmad has also ventured into the Indian film industry ala upcoming film Woh Lamhe. But instead of a new composition, Jawad has let Pritam re-arrange his old song, 'Bin Tere Kya Hai Jeena'. Once again, Jawad Ahmad shines as a vocalist. The difference, however, in the two songs is crystal clear: the old version was very desi and had a very Pakistani feel to it, both in terms of video concept and sound. The new version is crisper and softer somehow but the melody has been kept the same. Smart move, why tinker with a winner? Where Jawad was the lead protagonist in the old video, this version shows him singing in a plain background with clips from Woh Lamhe being shown, that evoke romance in typical Bollywood ishtyle. We wonder if it's a coincidence that the film is named after the last great Pakistani hit by Atif... The video is new for Jawad. It is a far cry from his usual colourful videos that have a very rural sensibility to them. 'Bin Tere' remains one of Jawad's biggest hits to date. This song was from his first album, Bol Tujhe Kya Chahiye and established him as a man for the masses. These days, Jawad Ahmad is busy with USA tours but buzz is that he has started working on a new album. If this man goes back to the raw energy of Bol..., we will have regained a major talent.

 

Atif redoes 'Dosti' – but why?

Atif Aslam has definitely been working on his live performances and he is a crackler at them. With the uncanny ability to drive the audience crazy without channeling Ali Azmat is something most new singers don't know how to do. So one wonders why Atif has chosen to resing 'Yaaron Yehi Dosti Hai'. The video is playing on music channels now. A seminal classic, the song was Ali Azmat's break out song - it made him (if not The Jupiters) noticed. Then the Junoon rock version came out that every rock aficionado in Pakistan has memorized in his head. And now there is Atif, with tired vocals trying to rock. The song just doesn't work. It is a number that needs to be sung from the heart, it's not a piece that can be used to show off vocal gymnastics, which is exactly what Atif has done. We love you Atif, but your cover of 'Dosti' simply isn't working. Just come out with your own album dude and give us something that can top 'Aadat' and 'Woh Lamhay'. We're itching to see what you can do without Gohar Mumtaz!  

 

Salman Ahmed gets an invitation from Bill Clinton

Salman Ahmed may not be visiting Pakistan these days but his schedule is certainly full. Last week, the rocker received an invitation from former US President Bill Clinton to speak at the Global Initiative Panel in New York. Not only will Salman make a presentation on cultural bridges between Islam and the west, but his documentaries - The Rockstar and the Mullahs and It's My Country Too - will also be played at the three-day event. The event is being held to find solutions to the growing problems between Muslims and the west as well as other global issues. Prominent personalities attending include Bill Gates, Laura Bush, and Queen Rania among others. Sal is one Sufi who hangs out with glitterati - it may not be Sufi at all, but it is very very good for the softer face of Pakistan. Here's to one Sufi who is going places!

 

 

Pakistani

1.             One Light Year at Snail Speed – Sajid and Zeeshan

2.             Sun Re – Abbas Ali Khan

3.             Chal Rein Dey – Sajjad Ali

4.             Be The One – Omer Inayat

5.                Jilawatan – Call

Hindustani

1.             Bas Ek Pal

2.             Kabhi Alvida Naa Kehna

3.             Don

4.             Omkara

5.                 Jaaneman

Vilayti

1.             Under The Iron Sea – Keane

2.             Open The Door

– Evanescence

3.                 Revolution – Audioslave

4.             Stadium Arcadium – Red Hot Chilli Peppers

5.  Loose – Nelly Furtado

 

Courtesy: Laraib Music, Clifton Shopping Centre,

Boating Basin, Karachi.

 

Piggybacking on the Brand India bandwagon

What is this rubbish?" Story has it that a Kazakh buyer reacted thus recently after he was shown three creations of a 'budding' Indian designer at Browns, London's famous design store. An exaggerated reaction, you'd say if you belong to India's burgeoning fashion fraternity. But the fact is that though Mumbai and Delhi have been on the global fashion map for decades, there is no brand recall for a single designer from India. Not yet. This, for an industry projected to cross 8,000 crore rupees in the next decade. To be fair, the Lakme and Wills fashion weeks are doing their bit to prop up the industry. They are even facilitating shows abroad.

Between September this year and March 2007, 10 Indian designers, including Sabyasachi Mukherjee, Manish Malhotra, Surily Goel and Savio Jon, will take their collections to New York, London, LA and so forth, just as the country's largest fashion week, the Wills India Fashion Week (WIFW), begins in capital Delhi on August 30. "Showcasing Indian designers abroad is an important first step in helping define an Indian design aesthetic for global buyers and media. An exposure to such international events will help increase awareness about these designers abroad, and also help them get additional funding and business support at home," says Ravi Krishnan, MD, IMG/TWI-South Asia and senior V-P, IMG, which hosts the Lakme Fashion Week.

Fashion weeks also translate into brisk business, claims Anil Chopra, V-P, Lakme Lever. "Big store owners, both Indian and foreign, place bulk orders with designers. Typically, at a week, 30 to 40 designers show their collections and the opportunity is huge," says Chopra.    

But challenges remain. Sangita Kathiwada, a buyer and owner of Mumbai's high-end store Melange, is distressed by the way Indian designers conduct themselves. "They lack discipline and are often not prompt on deliveries. They treat it as a cottage industry. But fashion is not about occasional dressing. You need sizes 8-16 to operate at the international level. It cannot be about one-to-one retailing to society women."

Fashion consultant Meher Castelino agrees: "Indian designers don't have a planned programme of action. Exposure helps but that is not enough."

Kathiwada says the excitement surrounding Indian fashion is limited to those who work for couture houses abroad. "You don't hear about them but they are the ones bringing in the bucks." If you skip the design aspect - it's still at a nascent stage - India continues to maintain its reputation as a hub for manufacture.

Says Krishnan, "India is a very important production hub. Many international designers and retailers have supply lines to the region." This, however, also poses a huge challenge to Indian designers. "They need to be able to meet and supply major world retailers to grow their businesses or these retailers will simply develop their own lines, or buy designer lines, who are using the production prowess of the Indian market," adds Krishnan.

Both Kathiwada and Castelino insist that Indian designers must shed their confusion - "and that two-inch label tag at the end of each garment" - about the market they want to cater to. "There's a very big market in India but Indian designers are just not tapping it,'' says Kathiwada. Agrees Krishnan, "The key is in developing the domestic market for your rising middle class. Every American and European designer and department store is opening in India. Indian designers would do well to be very involved in this expansion." Says designer Ashish Soni, who's showing in New York immediately after the WIFW, vehemently: "Designers must know their targets. Quality consciousness is a must at the global level. Perhaps, it would be better if we had shorter fashion weeks, with the cream of Indian designers showing their best creations, rather than showcasing average lines that put off the buyers."

Rathi Vinay Jha, director-general, Fashion Design Council of India (FDCI), organiser of the WIFW, says that the industry will only grow exponentially in India. "In terms of exports, growth will be comparatively less. But the demands of the diaspora market and the Middle East will build up and have a positive impact," she clarifies.

Adds designer JJ Valaya, "Today, for any Indian designer, both domestic and international presence is important. The importance lies in creatively channeling our rich heritage of designs." That said, the fashion industry has been showing signs of change in the last three years. Chopra points at two major indicators: the manifold increase in the number of designers entering the fashion arena and the number of fashion weeks (four in a year at least). So, is there an overkill?

"Of course," says Pradip Hirani of Kimaya, a fashion week regular and big buyer. "This phenomenon will even out. The newness is still to wear off, though." There's also a change in the mindset. An independent research company, Indica Research, conducted a survey two months ago amongst a 'relevant and sizeable sample' in the four metros (Mumbai, Delhi, Kolkata and Chennai) and found that 68 per cent were aware of a fashion week in the country. The top of mind recall as far as designers are concerned were of Manish Malhotra (33 per cent) and Ritu Beri (27 per cent) followed by Ritu Kumar (11 per cent), Sabyasachi Mukherjee (6 per cent) and Rohit Bal (5 per cent). As much as 37% recalled the designer garments displayed by the models on the ramps and an unbelievable 68% were aware of the venue of a fashion week. Also, this is the first year that India is having separate Autumn/Winter and Spring/Summer shows. "Designers across India needed a platform to show Spring-Summer collections and buyers in India and abroad had given us positive feedback about this decision," says Jha. Will's Autumn/Winter show in April this year, which many opined had come too late in the day as most buyers had exhausted budgets, nevertheless saw about 90 domestic and over 70 international buyers, which is an indication that the global fashion fraternity is taking Indian fashion more seriously. As Soni says, this is too soon to judge India's place in the global market. By 2010, Soni has plans to have as many as 100 stores in his brand name globally. Given the pace at which fashion is growing in India, that may actually turn true sooner than later.

 

– Sudipta Datta, Sulekha Nair, Jyoti Verma & Suman Tarafdar for Financial Express

Deepak Perwani shoots off the mouth

In a televised interview with Munib Nawaz, Deepak Perwani literally shot from the hip about what he thought of "Lahore designers" and "Karachi designers".  "Most of the people selling in Lahore are not even qualified enough to be called designers," he commented, ending his observations with, "Aap apnee masjid bechain, hum fashion bechain gaye". This city based divide is escalating like never before, thanks to members of the fraternity who share Deepak's views. But at times like these, when Pakistan is heading towards an international face, we'd rather see a unification of designers instead of divided camps that seem intent on maligning each other rather than creating good fashion and good will. Who is a designer and who's not will very simply be decided in favour of whoever gets the orders. It's as simple as that and then no matter what Mr Perwani thinks, the designers will emerge from deals and not city based biases.

   

 

Mohsin Sayeed adds fuel to fire

In a televised interview with journalist Zurain Imam, fashion critic Mohsin Sayeed tried to wax eloquent about Pakistani fashion and the Lux Style Awards. However, with one statement, he laid to rest any weight his words could have carried. When asked by Zurain whether he does his brother, designer Omar Sayeed's PR, Mohsin said "I do PR for any talent that is out there." When asked to elaborate on the talent, the usual suspects came tumbling out, "Ather Shahzad, Asim Raza, Omar Sayeed, Mehdi, Vinnie and Iman." The camp syndrome has tragically got fashion by the jugular and Mohsin proved it by not naming Nabila, Tariq Amin, Maheen, HSY, Rizwan Beyg, Saadia Mirza, Karma, Nomi Ansari and countless other members of the fashion fraternity. He listed all the members of the camp he is accused of belonging to and by doing so ensured that the current status quo of 'us vs them' continues to dictate the way the industry is shaping up. Public spats may be a thing of the past, but the Cold War is on in the fashion world and public statements against the 'other' are unfortunately the order of the day. 

 

Paint it red

When has red lipstick not been stylish? This is probably one style that is a universal classic and is never out of fashion. But not many women are comfortable wearing it as supposedly red lipstick is considered very hard to carry. Where there might be some truth in that, it is not entirely the case. One just needs to be a little careful about how they wear it and with what.

The lighter the skin, the stronger the shade looks, but that doesn't mean dark shaded women can't wear red lipstick. You just have to be careful about the shade you choose. If your complexion is pink, you'll look better in plum shades, while girls with yellow tones are flattered by warmer reds that have a brown base. If you can't seem to find the right shade of red for your skin tone try experimenting with some of the colors you have. Adding a little brown to your red might work.  You will have tons of fun and create signature colors that are all your own.

Also try to keep the other make-up to a minimum. Go light on the eyes and the blush, otherwise you'll risk looking like a clown or worse. Here's how to do it: Skip the eyeliner and go only for mascara (black please), dust your face with powder and your cheeks with a soft blush. Always line your lips before applying color, making sure both blend in.

Having those perfect red lips really is simple and fun. Not to mention all the attention it will grab for you. And if you are very daring, then match that lipstick with red nails and look fabulous!

 

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