INSTEP Magzine


instep analysis Turning the tide towards an intercity flow The significance of Deepak Perwani launching his ethnic line in Lahore Karachi based designer Deepak Perwani has created waves in Lahore with a major collection showing there. It seems that the fashion industry is looking to expand its business in cities within the country even as it prepares for reaching out to the world at large with Pakistan Fashion Week. By Zareen Rahman Photos by Faisal Farooqui

Deepak Perwani's first-ever ethnic line was introduced at a recent fashion show which came under the umbrella of a celebrated bank merger. And this wasn't the first time fashion has paired up with a multinational, a bank or an NGO to exhibit a designer's collection - HSY's bombastic CARE Foundation show at the governor house (in Lahore) was for a cause. But did the cause eclipse fashion? Think again. The same was the case with Deepak's show-stealing event. But what made his show any different from the usual fashion events that are hosted within the city? The show marked Deepak's entrance into the field of eastern wear, with the designer's very own, signature twist! What Pakistani fashion witnesses now, is a confetti of change. Rather than focusing primarily on 'going westwards', local designers have begun to realize the importance of exhibiting their work all over the country – be it in Lahore, Karachi, Islamabad, Peshawar or Multan. And that is why, Deepak chose Lahore – the city ripe with cultural heritage – to showcase his flare for ethnic wear.

The ethnic line, it must be stressed, had to be one of Perwani's most charming collections till date – and now after enjoying a nationally renowned zenith regarding Western attire style and cuts, Perwani has realized the importance of Eastern wear…and interestingly, he's managed to break through into it with flying colours. Known for his unusual, exceedingly diverse, non-run-off-the-mill designs - which are pretty ahead of their time, Deepak has once again proved his mettle (to the entire fashion fraternity) that he can do ethnic just as well as he does western wear.

So what really prompted the designer to showcase his eastern collection in Lahore – considering the fact that he functions primarily as a Karachi-based designer? Perwani's reply was rather interesting. He stated; "I have always related culture and tradition to Lahore and this collection depicted rich culture, so having my ethnic line shown in the city was mainly for the Lahoris!" Now that Perwani has managed to break into the mould of eastern fashion retail, he's bound to give his competitor's a run for their money. That being stated, the designer's eastern wear prices did however come across as somewhat steep – in comparison to other well-known designers' ethnic lines – and this, I sincerely felt could prove to be a bit of a drawback for Perwani – if reaching out to a large portion of the market is on his agenda

But what is truly exciting is that with the turf of Pakistani fashion getting more extensive, designers seem to be experimenting, and taking greater risks now, more so than ever before.

How you may ask? Well, look at it this way: Hassan Sheheryar Yasin's forte truly has been eastern wear… the man packs quite a punch in the bridal wear department, but his ever-so recent leap into western prêt wear ('BHSY' and 'R2W'), proves just this. And now with Deepak's launch into eastern wear, after years of being primarily western wear designer, fuels this very notion, that the Pakistani fashion industry is ready to experiment. That it's gotten a whole lot gutsier, stronger and consistent. And not just experiment via new cuts and embellishments – that too – but experimenting on a much larger, a macro scale. Experimenting on a macro scale? Yes, via trying out different markets - such as HSY's progression to Karachi and currently, Deepak's 'breaking into' Lahore's eastern market via a show displaying his first-ever eastern line. And the experimentation isn't just restricted to a national scale alone, scores of designers take their creations outside Pakistan – to India, Europe, the States, you name it, while others even operate branches overseas!

Look at 'Karma' (before the split) for instance; Kamiar Rokni and Maheen Khan would consistently exhibit their work at 'Bridal Asia' in India – and that's just one example of a sole fashion brand taking their creations across the border for a large-scale show. Imagine how many more countless, top-notch designers frequent other countries to put up their work on display for various events and fashion shows! So with the recent launch into eastern wear, will Deepak be showcasing an ethnic line at Pakistan Fashion Week in November? "No no not at all," stated Deepak, "I'll be showcasing my prêt line… and it's going to be very international."

But what about his consistency in the ethnic wear department, considering the fact that it's only now that he's officially brought it out into the open? Will he remain just as consistent with eastern wear as he has been with prêt? "Of course! I consider myself to be a pretty prolific designer and every year I'm going to churn out something new – not the same old thing again and again." After experiencing the designer's ethnic line at his topical show, one could notice that the exhibited pieces were done with great skill. Even though Perwani has set foot on a different turf, his cuts and silhouettes still mark his individuality. For instance, a number of stunning ethnic pieces depicted a revival of the vintage choori daar pajama, giving it a complete and modern, 'Perwani touch'.

Keeping in mind today's trends, the choori daar was given a pant-like cut to avoid the uneasiness and slight discomfort of the overall outfit – and surprisingly, it looked pretty good. And then, surprisingly, it was somewhat hard to believe that after almost a decade of extinction, gota kaam had made its way back into Pakistani fashion as Deepak had worked with and around it in an extremely charming, vintage way as it adorned some of his ethnic pieces. When asked what the experience of designing the ethnic line was like, Deepak stated very calmly that it had been relatively easier than what he had been doing in the past. "I learned a number of things while doing this line", he stated, "and it was a great experience overall" he remarked enthusiastically. With Pakistani fashion breaking boundaries and continuously bubbling with activity (mergers, splits, launches and rifts), one wonders what lies ahead. With less than two months left for Pakistan Fashion Week, many do seem rather pessimistic about PFW 'changing the way things operate' regarding local fashion. Yet, a majority of other hopefuls remain excessively optimistic. But staying in 'the game of fashion' should not be interpreted as staying in a constant state of limbo. Reinventions, experimentations, stepping on to national/international turfs, launching out into prêt, read-to-wear, couture and eastern wear should continuously be juggled – ambidextrously, and with skill. When funky Deepak Perwani went ethnic, he did just that!