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What does fashion do in the face of pessimism and
uncertainty? It puts on a happy face and that's exactly what designers
did with their collections last week at New York Fashion Week. With
America's revered financial institutions wobbling; the hurricane
season shows no signs of blowing out and jitters about an election
too close to call, the designers sent out a united, singular message:
'relax'.
"Everyone talks about what's wrong with the world today - the
economy, the election - but I like to do something that changes
our spirit," said Michael Kors who presented a sporty, upbeat
collection which was extremely well received.
In the same kind of mood, Carolina Herrera said she was trying to
make "something so special" for the runway that no economic
downturn would stand in women's way.
"It's going to be a very feminine and romantic collection because
when the economy is not that good, we need to achieve, to do something
even more special," Herrera told The Associated Press. "Women
who buy your clothes have to be attracted with something so special
that they need to have it."
And so the collections were fluid in metallic themes - a hint at
a silver lining perhaps. They also strongly hinted at America in
the seventies, with boaters and polka dots reminiscent of the cha
cha cha. They played with nostalgia as a strong emotion. Collections
also brought forth two strong trends - one being the soft and relaxed
silhouette and the second being the outsized print.
In eveningwear many designers borrowed from an Asian influence,
with Ralph Lauren bringing in the turbans and accessories a'la rich
mughal jewelry. Designer Anna Sui's collection could easily be a
'Made in Pakistan' label for its liberal use of embroidery and embellishment.
From India, Sabyasachi showed to a packed house while from Pakistan,
Ali Khan proved that we are just as ready to make it big. Ali, a
young and relatively unknown designer from Lahore, made his debut
in New York, where he put Pakistan on the map.
Taking an extensive look at numerous collections playing out over
the span of fashion week, one realized that the global village is
indeed getting smaller and smaller, many of the designs put up by
biggies seemingly so similar to what our best designers are making
here in Pakistan. There were pantaloons strikingly similar to the
shalwar, there were huge floral prints so much like the prints we
see every summer and there was even traditional embroidery, a craft
that was refered to India alone. One feels this is the time that
Pakistani fashion should truly get out there and show the world
a thing or two!
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Ralph
Lauren
Ralph Lauren, took Harrison Ford's heroic, alter-ego as the inspiration
for his spring/summer 2009 collection. His models strode out, ready
to conquer every obstacle from evil Nazi agents to tarantulas, wearing
khaki jodhpurs and shirts, with battered 'Akubra' hats. Later in
the collection, the action shifted to India and North Africa, the
cue for exotic silk 'dhoti' pants, gold-beaded slinks and hourglass
gowns accessorized with gold lame turbans, designed by London-based
milliner Philip Treacy. It was a very colonial collection, with
repeated references to style that can easily be associated with
the sub continent as well.
Sabyasachi
Mukherjee
Sabyasachi Mukherjee's collection was full of covetable separates,
many with exquisite hand embroideries, quilting, and beading that
could only be done in India (or Pakistan, but New York is yet to
discover that) but have true global appeal. One of his talents is
to make seemingly prim silhouettes pop, so the uncharacteristically
too-short and too-sexy scalloped pieces hit a false note. But most
of his clothes were imbued with an almost French ooh-la-la, suggesting
that Mukherjee is becoming increasingly fluent in the international
language of fashion. This was his third showing at NYFW and he's
come back with good reviews and an invitation to participate in
the International Herald Tribune's "Sustainable Luxury"
conference in New Delhi this December.
Marc
Jacobs
It was as though the designer had taken the various elements of
immigrant America and transported them into a future where women
would wear tailored pants suits with sharp shoulders - à
la Saint Laurent in the 1960s - and where a snug sweater over a
full-sleeved blouse hinted at the 1970s. Jacobs has often used the
past to project into the future. But at a time when the U.S. election
has put a spotlight on the diversity of women, this show trembled
with intuitive reflections - literally, in the set with an infinity
of mirrors. Similar to Ralph Lauren, Jacobs' collection also gave
a savage echo of Africa.
Carolina
Herrera
Herrera presented her spring collection with feelings of civility,
sophistication and luxury. She consistently plays the chic, well-heeled
woman who has little interest in trends, yet the lovely dresses
with organza overlays or delicate ruffles fully played into the
casual elegance that has been a strong theme during the season.
Her palette was predominantly hibiscus pink, marigold yellow, teal
blue and persimmon mixed with graphic black, but she also conformed
prints, that will make a comeback next spring.
Diane
Von
Furstenberg
DVF celebrated the 'rock-goddess' in a rainbow-parade of floral
prints, diaphanous chiffons and sequins in her spring/summer 2008
collection, proving that hippy days are here again. The collection
was presented by 'flower children' - the models walking in with
silk roses, ribbons and feathers strewn through their hair. The
collection was a demonstration of the modern 'power-boho' whose
working wardrobe comprises a floaty chiffon smock, circa Woodstock
1969; chiffon harem pants tied at the ankle; and a hippie-trail
embroidered jacket, with golden wedge-shoes and a chunky, chain-mail
bag slung over one shoulder.
Badgley
Mischka
Mark Badgley and James Mischka scaled down considerably the bells
and whistles in their clothes and their runway show as well as the
number of looks but their collection was pared down yet pretty.
What it did highlight, however, was a delicate femininity through
chiffon floral prints, blossoms and beads. This print could easily
have been designed in one of our textile mills. |
