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Will someone step up and make a shalwar that can sell at Barneys?
While Pakistani designers are busy trying to perfect the art of dress-making, its Marc Jacobs and Ralph Lauren who are putting shalwars and turbans on international runways!

By Aamna Haider Isani

 
Today, a shalwar could actually sell as a separate at Barneys.

And to understand how, one must follow the nine o' clock news…
 
 

Democracy has been restored in Pakistan and years of military rule may have left behind a lot to clear up, but one must stay optimistic that the climate will only get better up ahead. And under the world wide umbrella of recognition that the Taliban have created for Pakistan, the irony is that they have also paved the best time path for Pakistani fashion to take to the world's stage.

With baggy shalwars being fashionably rechristened 'genie pants' and giant turbans being created in gold lame by Philip Treacy and Patricia Underwood for Ralph Lauren, the Taliban have sure enough influenced global fashion. The inhospitable tribal areas of Northern Pakistan are exactly where these influences are coming from. God knows the world has seen enough of the Taliban on the nine o' clock news.

But fashion can actually find a very viable silver lining in all this hostility. All these years the world has identified saris with India and Islamic fundamentalism with Pakistan. All of a sudden, one notices shalwars and turbans being catapulted onto the runways - shalwars and turbans and fairie shoes (yes, khussas) and even kohlapuris (Jimmy Choo is making them) are actually up in the spotlight. But other than Ralph Lauren, Marc Jacobs and Philip Treacy, Pakistani designers need to be stepping forward as these trends originate here. Needless to say, the best way to do that would be through a Pakistan Fashion Week, and perhaps this is time it was resurrected.

Pakistani fashion truly has come a long way as far as trends are concerned. One can easily see a Sonya Battla, Maheen Karim, Sadaf Malaterre or Kamiar Rokni collection blend in with the Zac Posens, Diane Von Furstenbergs and Anna Suis of the world. There were some clothes on New York Fashion Week runways that almost bore the 'Made in Pakistan' mark, they were so close to home. While there are many successful designers in Pakistan who can do nothing beyond the bridal market, there are others like the ones mentioned above who are simply made for international runways.


What Pakistan needs right now is a grip on the business of fashion and production. But that needn't be such a big problem either. As Hindol Sengupta - fashion journalist for The Hindu, India - who recently was in Karachi said, "If Roberto Cavalli can get his luxury wear made in these regions then why can't our own designers make luxury goods that are at par with international standards too?"

 

 

He spoke sense, as India and Pakistan have been creating bulks of clothing for almost all the big fashion brands in the world, Roberto Cavalli included. Gap manufactures right here in Korangi, Karachi. Hindol spoke of "concentric circles of desire"; a small style snowballing into a massive trend. That has happened and this time the trends are radiating from this part of the world.

The second irony - if one can get over the Taliban putting Pakistani fashion on the map - is the fact that most of the best designers in Pakistan have had the most low profile. And one feels that only Pakistan Fashion Week can change that. It will be a nervous start for designers like Sonya Battla, Sadaf Malaterre, Iman Ahmad, Kamiar Rokni and Maheen Karim who are all immensely talented but work within limits that are restrained to small operations and one or two runway shows a year, if any at all. And it will also be a grand opening for the experienced generation of designers who have shown all over the world - that is designers like Nilofer Shahid who has shown at Paris Fashion Week, Rizwan Beyg who has shown in New York and Milan (at various fund raisers), Maheen Khan and Deepak Perwani who have shown at Malaysia Fashion Week along with prolifically all over the world. And it will give a homegrown platform to Faiza Samee, who is making her fabulous silk block prints into ready to wear ensembles.

One would say the fashion industry is ready to fly. And as Sonya Battla said after being part of the Pakistan Fashion Week showcase (in Bombay) for Lakme Fashion Week last year, "Fashion week was so simply put together in India that I realized this was something we could do too. It wasn't impossible."
So when that shalwar gets to Barneys, it should have a Pakistani fashion label on it, not a Marc Jacobs or Miss Sixty.