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Will
someone step up and make a shalwar that can sell at Barneys?
While Pakistani designers are busy trying to perfect the art
of dress-making, its Marc Jacobs and Ralph Lauren who are putting
shalwars and turbans on international runways!
By Aamna
Haider Isani
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Today,
a shalwar could actually sell as a separate at Barneys.
And to understand how, one must follow the nine o' clock news… |
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Democracy has been restored in Pakistan and years of military rule
may have left behind a lot to clear up, but one must stay optimistic
that the climate will only get better up ahead. And under the world
wide umbrella of recognition that the Taliban have created for Pakistan,
the irony is that they have also paved the best time path for Pakistani
fashion to take to the world's stage.
With baggy shalwars being fashionably rechristened 'genie pants'
and giant turbans being created in gold lame by Philip Treacy and
Patricia Underwood for Ralph Lauren, the Taliban have sure enough
influenced global fashion. The inhospitable tribal areas of Northern
Pakistan are exactly where these influences are coming from. God
knows the world has seen enough of the Taliban on the nine o' clock
news.
But fashion can actually find a very viable silver lining in all
this hostility. All these years the world has identified saris with
India and Islamic fundamentalism with Pakistan. All of a sudden,
one notices shalwars and turbans being catapulted onto the runways
- shalwars and turbans and fairie shoes (yes, khussas) and even
kohlapuris (Jimmy Choo is making them) are actually up in the spotlight.
But other than Ralph Lauren, Marc Jacobs and Philip Treacy, Pakistani
designers need to be stepping forward as these trends originate
here. Needless to say, the best way to do that would be through
a Pakistan Fashion Week, and perhaps this is time it was resurrected.
Pakistani fashion truly has come a long way as far as trends are
concerned. One can easily see a Sonya Battla, Maheen Karim, Sadaf
Malaterre or Kamiar Rokni collection blend in with the Zac Posens,
Diane Von Furstenbergs and Anna Suis of the world. There were some
clothes on New York Fashion Week runways that almost bore the 'Made
in Pakistan' mark, they were so close to home. While there are many
successful designers in Pakistan who can do nothing beyond the bridal
market, there are others like the ones mentioned above who are simply
made for international runways.
What Pakistan
needs right now is a grip on the business of fashion and production.
But that needn't be such a big problem either. As Hindol Sengupta
- fashion journalist for The Hindu, India - who recently was in
Karachi said, "If Roberto Cavalli can get his luxury wear made
in these regions then why can't our own designers make luxury goods
that are at par with international standards too?"
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He spoke sense, as India and Pakistan have been creating bulks of
clothing for almost all the big fashion brands in the world, Roberto
Cavalli included. Gap manufactures right here in Korangi, Karachi.
Hindol spoke of "concentric circles of desire"; a small
style snowballing into a massive trend. That has happened and this
time the trends are radiating from this part of the world.
The second irony - if one can get over the Taliban putting Pakistani
fashion on the map - is the fact that most of the best designers in
Pakistan have had the most low profile. And one feels that only Pakistan
Fashion Week can change that. It will be a nervous start for designers
like Sonya Battla, Sadaf Malaterre, Iman Ahmad, Kamiar Rokni and Maheen
Karim who are all immensely talented but work within limits that are
restrained to small operations and one or two runway shows a year,
if any at all. And it will also be a grand opening for the experienced
generation of designers who have shown all over the world - that is
designers like Nilofer Shahid who has shown at Paris Fashion Week,
Rizwan Beyg who has shown in New York and Milan (at various fund raisers),
Maheen Khan and Deepak Perwani who have shown at Malaysia Fashion
Week along with prolifically all over the world. And it will give
a homegrown platform to Faiza Samee, who is making her fabulous silk
block prints into ready to wear ensembles.
One would say the fashion industry is ready to fly. And as Sonya Battla
said after being part of the Pakistan Fashion Week showcase (in Bombay)
for Lakme Fashion Week last year, "Fashion week was so simply
put together in India that I realized this was something we could
do too. It wasn't impossible."
So when that shalwar gets to Barneys, it should have a Pakistani fashion
label on it, not a Marc Jacobs or Miss Sixty. |
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