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Suffering
the divide
With two fashion weeks hovering in the distant horizon, the
fashion industry should think long and hard about the consequences.
Instep gets you the low down from across the border that has a
similar situation
By Mohsin
Sayeed
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There
is a lot to learn about having a fashion week as soon we are also
going have our own – Pakistan Fashion Week. Despite being high
on the glamour quotient, a fashion week strictly remains a business
affair and, contrary to Pakistani popular perception, not a string
of shows, social events and photo opportunities.
On the organization front we seem to be sorted as IMG will be handling
it. Hence, more or less, Pakistan Fashion Week will be at par with
weeks held around the world.
However, the media management and PR sport a big question mark. At
LFW 2007, the role of PRs pushing their client designers was delightfully
limited as they mostly remained in the background. Genesis PR superbly
handled the event's media management. We need training in that area.
The PR staff ran to iron out creases, addressed media issues, pampered
temperamental media professionals and managed to get proper coverage
for their clients. But the biggest, most important lesson that one
learnt at LFW 2007 was the importance of 'unity'.
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Four
fashion weeks, two each season in Delhi and Mumbai are becoming a
bit much too handle for all concerned. From buyers to media, everyone
seemed to be falling victim to fashion fatigue. The divide is proving
counterproductive for the Indian fashion industry.
"The idea of two fashion weeks doesn't seem to be working,"
proclaimed Hilary Alexander, Fashion Editor for The Daily Telegraph
in the UK. "India should have one consolidated week. Perhaps,
one in Delhi and Bombay each season is a good idea. Two weeks are
having a slightly negative impact on the industry. It needs to be
bolstered." |
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Hilary
Alexander was exhausted having spent two days at Wills Lifestyle India
Fashion Week in Delhi before flying out to Mumbai for Lakme Fashion
Week.
According to her, there are so many weeks to attend around the world
and she just cannot give up two more weeks in the same country. "
I have to spend time in my office as there's so much to do. More importantly,
this phenomenon is not attracting the bulk of important buyers,"
she explains.
Bandana Tiwari, fashion editor Vogue India, also echoes Alexander's
thought.
"The media gets bored, buyers lose concentration and the industry
suffers as attending two fashion weeks back-to-back becomes cumbersome.
Fashion fatigue is what I call it, frankly," says Tiwari.
But young designers, who usually don't get a chance to show at Delhi,
are catapulted to the ramp in Bombay. Hence, it is good for them,
is it not?
"Well, they can be accommodated in a more practical manner. After
all Fashion Fringe is for young talent and it's a part of London Fashion
Week," she presents a solution. |
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Fashion Fringe was created in 2004 by IMG, under the creative direction
of fashion journalist Colin McDowell and with the support of Red Bull,
to re-invigorate the fashion industry in the UK. Fashion Fringe actively
searches out fresh fashion talent in the UK every year, selects four
finalists who then get to show their collections at London Fashion
Week.
Bandana Tiwari prefers to see groomed talent. "Frankly, we all
are not going to see a designer grow from the start. It would be tiring,"
she declares.
However, Indian designer Sabyasachi Mukherji hails LFW. "We are
here to lend support to the young designers. Another fashion week
had to happen. There was no space for young ones," he says. For
Sabyasachi, it's another great opportunity.
"Whenever there is a tussle, a host of opportunities open for
many. Secondly, it keeps us on our toes," he admits. But he agrees
that the divide has a negative impact on the industry.
"It has harmed everyone. They should get back together anyway.
Perhaps, to accommodate the young ones, something like Fashion Fringe
is a good idea," he says.
For Fern Mallis, Vice President IMG Fashion, LFW is very exciting.
She thinks young designers who show at LFW are getting hungrier and
interested in breaking the boundaries and what's happening all over
the world. She finds most of them in Mumbai. "Wherever I go,
and I go to quite a few place, the most frequently asked question
is 'what's new?' here I get the answer," she said. She finds
some collections at LFW A/W 2007 "dreadful", some "good"
and some with "potential"…just like any other fashion
in the world.
But when pressed for a candid reply on two fashion weeks, she was
clear. "In a perfect world, IMG, Lakme and Fashion Design Council
of India (FDCI) should get back together. It will not be as confusing
as this for buyers and uniquely better for the Indian fashion industry,
media and IMG," she confesses.
She hopes that the merger happens sooner than later. "I think
it's on everyone's mind. Designers have to realize that they are not
doing it for their egos. Two weeks are exhausting for media and buyers
alike. I hope common sense prevails soon," she explains. Asked
if she could put a time frame to this, she just says that she hopes
sooner than later.
While Fern Mallis remains non-committal and, in her own words "diplomatic"
about a time frame, Simon Lock, MD IMG Fashion Asia Pacific, was far
more honest and forthcoming.
"Over the next 12 months, I would very much hope," replies
Lock immediately. Although, he maintains that LFW has been successful,
but he maintains it could have been "more successful together."
"India cannot sustain four fashion weeks. It needs to come together.
Differences need to be put aside for the bigger collective goal,"
he says.
Geographically, commercially there has to be one fashion week. The
divide needs to be healed. We are here forever and unity is what we
are working for. In the mean time both fashion weeks will continue
to suffer."
Lock's honesty takes me by surprise.
"It's a good lesson for Pakistanis. We have got unity in Pakistan.
Just don't lose it at any cost," he warns Pakistan of the disadvantages
of a split.
Anil Chopra, VP Lakme Lever, who claims to be defining the future
of Indian fashion, is the only dissenting voice regarding the Delhi-Bombay
split. He seems completely satisfied.
"It's a business to business event and we are growing from strength
to strength. Of course, the learning curve is there every time we
do this week. I feel young designers should get a chance and here
they are getting it. Our Gen Nex show is a proof, which is growing,"
he claims.
When I ask him if he ever regrets split with FDCI, he sharply replies:
"No." For Anil economics, numbers have to make sense. "I
never felt breaking up with FDCI was not a great decision. It's easier
for others to say 'get back together'. The FDCI's demand for paying
24 crores was a rather steep when we knew that the event was not worth
more than 15 or 16 crores. We made this offer to FDCI," he explains.
For Chopra, after having invested in the fashion week for five years,
it was impossible to let go. "We were there right from start
as title sponsor. After building the fashion week brand, we could
not let go of it. We knew the money we offered to FDCI enabled us
to do out own fashion week. I walked away then," he defends his
decision.
However, Chopra does not rule out talks with FDCI for getting back
together.
"We are open to talk to them if the environment is good for equitable
business. You might be influential but it has to be a right business
decision. No one is going to sign a blank cheque. IMG did not,"
he says.
However, the most senior people present in fashion seemed to agree
with the disadvantages of a split. The Sunday Times senior fashion
writer Colin McDowell's opinion is still ringing in my ears.
"While four fashion week tell me that there is great vitality
in Indian fashion, it's too much for any country," said McDowell.
"There has to be one fashion city: Delhi or Mumbai. Just as it
happens all over the world, Paris, Milan, New York and London. We
don't have time to go to a country four times in a year."
If international buyers and media giants like McDowell get tired and
start choosing between the Mumbai and Delhi fashion weeks, business
will take a serious hit for designers on both sides of the divide.
And all the while I was thinking about Pakistan. If a split can be
so harmful for a country like India, which has a lot more designers
and sponsors and other professionals, imagine what it can do to us.
After getting the good news of the signing of an MOU between FDCI
and Fashion Pakistan, when Sabyasachi Mukherji told me he would come
to the fashion week in September I got a bit confused. Upon inquiring,
I was told that a Karachi Couture Week is being planned in the month.
Two weeks of fashion almost back to back in Pakistan between Karachi
and Lahore? I don't need to say anything. International fashion giants
and fashion professionals have said it all. Divisions translate into
opportunities lost for the business of fashion. |
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Expectations
from Pakistan
Simon Lock calls them 'internationals'. Influential journalists
and buyers that make the fashion world go round speak to Instep
about their first perception of Pakistan Fashion Week. |
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| Upon
hearing that I am from Pakistan, Hilary Alexander delightedly told
me that she is coming to Lahore for the upcoming Pakistan Fashion
Week (PFW). She sat me down and inquired about various regions of
Pakistan and trends in local fashion. She was very excited. |
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"Imagine
the first Muslim country to have a fashion week," she exclaimed
to Bandana Tiwari. "Oh darling, it's such grand news story. Everyone
has this impression that Muslim women are subjugated," she says.
When I object to this statement, she clarifies: "We don't know.
The political situation in the world creates a different perception
of your country. PFW will break so many barriers. I am extremely delighted,"
she explains where her perceptions come from.
Naturally, I ask her what she is expecting to see at PFW. Hilary Alexander
wants to see something different that she has not seen in her 20 years
of fashion week hopping across Europe, US and other regions. "I
certainly don't want to see watered down versions of international
brands like Prada, D & G and others," she says.
"I want to see Pakistani designers individuality, creativity,
a bit of |
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if I may say so." Alexander explains that she is interested to
see differences. "I hope I will be able to see innovative use
of Pakistani fabrics and embellishments, Central Asian influences,
your hidden fashion treasures. Fashion must resist globalization.
This is the only way to keep national and traditional identities intact,"
she explains. |
If she is invited, Bandana Tiwari promises to come to Lahore for PFW.
And she is in sync with Alexander. "I know that Pakistan and
India are very similar, but I would like to see cultural differences
between the two. I am looking for a distinct Pakistani design sensibility,
colour palette and motifs," she offers her take.
Pakistani fashion need not worry here as we do have a distinct design
sensibility. However, the interpretation, presentation and technical
skills pose a major problem.
"It's not easy to keep the spirit to make clothes for the world,"
says Colin McDowell. He would like to come to Pakistan and see what's
happening here.
"I don't know anything about there. I travel around the globe.
I come to India, Sri Lanka but have never been to Pakistan. I would
love to come for the fashion week," he says.
According to McDowell, the secret of having fashion is based on two
principals.
"By understanding the culture and how it can be used for fashion.
Next is how to give this fashion to the west, or the world in general,"
he explains.
McDowell thinks that East is moving forward. "It's one of the
most exciting regions in the world. India, China, Singapore are witnessing
a renaissance of talent. All have strong and proud cultures,"
he declares.
For McDowell, the west needs an injection of new cultural influences.
"The west has very little new to say now. Here, you have drama,
colour and embellishment. These are all dramatic places. High creativity
and high drama grow from intensive cultural beliefs," explains
McDowell.
While McDowell gives his expert advice on what to do in terms of amalgamating
cultural influences to attract a foreign eye and buyer, Albert Morris,
buyer for the exclusive store Browns, who is responsible for introducing
Sabyasachi to the west, offers more technical advice for a successful
fashion week.
"It has to slick, clean and neat. Not hanging threads, broken
heals, loose buttons. Designers have to focus on details. If a designer
manages to offer 10 looks, that is great. A collection has to be tightly
edited. A total of 25 outfits are more than enough. Also editors and
buyers always remember the first and the last. The rest is often a
haze, " he says.
Morris expects a beginner fashion week to have growing pains. "It
takes time to perfect a week. It's a slow process, however, designers
should be very focused on what they want to achieve. East or west,
it could be any look, the important point is that it has to be individualistic."
Morris repeatedly emphasizes on sharp editing and minute details.
"Details, detail, detail…you get that right and you are
sorted," he concludes.
Sabyasachi hailed the signing of MoU between FDCI and fashion Pakistan.
"It's wonderful as we have very thin cultural borders,"
he says. He confesses drawing a lot of inspiration from Pakistan.
"I did a collection on Heera Mandi girls for Bridal Asia without
having been there," he discloses.
He thinks that a good synergy is coming into shape this year. Will
he participate in PFW? "I may a couple of times, but it's no
use going to a country regularly with no trade. For this MoU (between
the Indian and Pakistan fashion councils) to matter, trade has to
open between Pakistan and India. Otherwise, it will remain a showcase.
In the long run nothing will happen till business begins," says
Sabyasachi.
And for the business of fashion to begin, it is imperative that Pakistan
carves out a definitive slot for itself on the global fashion week
calendar.
-- Mohsin Sayeed |
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