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Testing
the waters
Wardha Saleem makes her first splash
Splashing blocks of colours in her clothing and motifs that range
from animals to florals, Wardha Saleem has, within the last four
years, carved a strong and solid clientele for herself and she is
now entering the lucrative world of bridals. Instep meets with the
designer and finds out what's next for her…
By
Ayecha Ahmed |
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Although the roads in town have made commuting
very difficult, one was taken aback by the ease with which one found
Wardha Saleem's bungalow that also has her studio.
Fairly new to the fashion industry and operating without an outlet,
one really had to draw a picture in mind to the voice that explained
the way to her residence.
On arriving, the busy designer was still talking to one of her clients
on phone. Dressed casually in jeans and a cream coloured button
down shirt with her haired tied in a loose ponytail Wardha seemed
every bit like a professional woman who wouldn't want to waste even
her Sunday from her overly busy schedule. After putting the phone
down she led me to her studio.
Her studio is small with hot pink walls. One of them is covered
with a built-in wooden rack where her prêt and formal collection
is displayed. Across from it is the rack for unstitched block prints.
The little room is as funky and vibrant as the clothes that Wardha
designs.
Since one gets to see the unstitched lot first she began telling
about why she has block prints in the first place. "Block prints
are considered boring, generally and to an extent they are, so I
thought of refreshing the art and bring it out in such a form that
it would look stylish," explained Wardha who besides giving
life to this dying handicraft also introduced animal motif in the
stamps and is thrilled by the way it is taken by people.
"I didn't think the older generation would want anything to
do with animal or bird block prints, but I'm amazed at the number
of older women asking for it, I guess everyone wants to be different,"
concludes the designer who has been in the industry for the last
four years.
To this hardworking, head strong designer, the journey so far has
been a rewarding one and even though she has had her fair share
of difficulties, she admits that in the end, it has been a learning
experience. "Initially I would tell my customers very bluntly
about what will suit them and what won't. I am the designer and
I thought it was my duty to tell them about aesthetics. That made
me loose a lot of customers, but now I have learnt to put my aesthetics
across without offending theirs," remembers Wardha.
She has also had a tough time with her workers. "When I started
off I had a couple of people, who ran away with my money and blackmailed
me, but now I have a brilliant team and its fun working with them."
To Wardha, the hardships that she has endured are all part of growing
as a designer.
A workaholic by nature, besides being physically present in every
process of making an outfit, she also teaches in the Textile department
at Indus Valley School of Art and Architecture.
A graduate from IVSAA herself, she enjoys the process of teaching
immensely. "I enjoy it. Teaching opens up my mind. I think
being a professional doesn't mean one shouldn't refer back to books.
If I wasn't teaching I wouldn't be able to take myself out of difficult
situations while designing and along the process one gets solutions."
Teaching for almost three years now Wardha still feels its designing
that is her profession and not teaching. "If ultimately I ever
have to choose, my work will take priority,' cause that's my passion."
That said, she is a firm believer in education and feels that while
talent is necessary to make it, education polished that talent further.
Being part of the competitive fashion industry for four years Wardha
still doesn't own an outlet but that doesn't seem to bother her.
"I started off with three clients and today I have people coming
in every second day. I think the kind of attention and interaction
I can have with my clients individually won't happen if I had a
shop. Besides, I don't think I'd be more involved in the process
of designing an outfit, which is very essential to me. Going commercial
right now isn't my concern, but with time I do see myself having
an outlet. I want to take one step at a time."
She started stocking her clothes at Labels a year back but pulled
out, as things didn't work out there.
Wardha feels inspiration can strike her anywhere and the process
that she was taught while studying as a textile student at IVSAA
of sketching out her thoughts has had positive outcomes so far and
is something she never skips.
Known for her bright colours, she admits that colours are her strength,
"I was known as a colour wizard at college," she reminisces.
Block prints, which are part of her pret and semi-formal line, are
sold just as much as anything else she makes. Wardha believes that
people continue to wear block prints, simply for the love of it.
Handling them innovatively, she has made an effort to bring block
prints into focus. One has seen the growth of lawn in a rather dynamic
way with more and more designers venturing into it. We've seen new
ways of wearing lawns, letting imagination run wild. And for working
women, who opt for ready-to-wear, the effort of buying lawn and
getting them tailored is no longer a problem. With the availability
of designers taking orders, it has become easy, even if it means
dishing out an extra sum of money.
Block prints, on the other hand, have become redundant. But with
a designer like Wardha Saleem playing out new ideas, motifs, it
seems that fact is surely going to change. Her eye on trends, flair
for colour and young ideas, are giving block prints an exciting
edge.
Unlike other designers Wardha started out with her prêt line
and has just ventured into bridals. "Prêt was my forte,
I enjoy the fast process of making prêt wear. You get to innovate
a lot. When I started they were very cost effective for me. Bridals
and formals are one-offs and take a lot of time. Being of an impatient
nature it wasn't something I wanted to start with. I'm all set for
it now," informs the determined designer.
Like most designers in the industry, Wardha wants to do both, prêt
and bridals.
Wardha feels the industry that is almost new to her is very kind
and helpful. Although she is a firm believer in talent, she knows
having contacts is important and to make them one needs to have
strong work ethics and should market rigourously in this competitive
field.
For someone who never thought of being a designer, Wardha is passionate
about her profession and is quite satisfied with how things have
turned out. Currently designing for a couple of advertisements,
Wardha feels it's through advertising that the sense of style of
the masses has improved.
Wardha has behind her a lot of experience and has worked with designer
Nadya Mistry and has been an in-house designer for Khaamta and Threadz
before she finally ventured out on her own.
She may not have a retail outlet just yet but she does have convictions
and ideas that translate well into her clothes. Fashion is constantly
evolving and if anyone understands that well, it is Wardha Saleem.
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Wardha Saleem's collection can be seen on Style Section.
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