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q&a
"Semi precious gems are being mined
and sold by the kilo not carat in Pakistan. We want to play a
role in uplifting this trade through standardized branded jewellery."
– Amir Adnan
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The
House of Amir Adnan is perhaps one of the few design enterprises in
Pakistan that operates on a true corporate framework. He is selling
all over Pakistan as well as from flagship stores in Dubai. As a label
he is expanding, taking the brand from traditional menswear to corporate
clothing, FNKAsia, Amir Adnan Women and now jewellery. Instep talks
to the designer as he makes a debut at the Dubai Fashion Week…
Instep: Tell us about the latest brand expansions at Amir Adnan?
Amir Adnan: The latest expansion is jewellery design. We are using
silver as base metal with stones that are mined out of Pakistan. They
include precious and semi-precious stones. The idea is to utilize
stones and craftsmanship of Pakistan. Currently gems are being sold
by the kilos not carats. The trade is under utilized and I want to
help in reviving it. We have excellent gems mined in Pakistan, especially
quality emeralds and the rare pink topaz, which no one even knows
about. We want to bring that up. Ours is standardized branded jewellery.
Instep: Designing jewellery is much more technical than designing
clothes? How do you manage without the training?
Amir Adnan: I am a trained jewellery designer. I was trained in Dubai
by J.E. Austin in collaboration with the USAID who were working to
uplift the jewelry industry in Pakistan. It was a short training course
but I was trained by French and German experts. That has given me
the eye for quality control and the eye to look over the very experienced
kaarighars who I have hired.
Instep: So far the brand Amir Adnan has been all about ready to wear.
What motivated you to step into jewellery design?
Amir Adnan: I've always been interested in exploring stones. There
is a need for it in the market. When I say branded standardized jewellery,
it means the jewels are truly standardized. The grams of silver, ruby
and emerald, for instance, are fully defined. And it is all coded.
So if someone returns three years later for the same design, it will
be available. What happens here is that women go to jewellers who
they know and trust. That might mean a jeweller who is known to the
whole family. But it can be a hassle to go and look for the right
design and find out the details, negotiate and so on.
Instep: Will you also be taking orders on customized pieces?
Amir Adnan: Maybe. But the whole object is standardized jewelry on
the lines of Judith Ripka and John Hardy.
Instep: What is your target market?
Amir Adnan: I can't go into the demographic but the target is the
modern woman, a woman who goes out and is in tune with world. And
she may not have the time to go out and look for the right design.
Our designs are not traditional. They are contemporary.
Instep: Over to clothes and collections, why have you decided to participate
at the Dubai Fashion Week this year?
Amir Adnan: I'm participating at the Dubai Fashion Week because I
want to promote the brand in the Middle Eastern market. It is a special
line called Princess. The collection is geared towards that market
and not what we produce in this region. So it's important to show
at DFW.
Instep: You haven't shown in Pakistan for quite sometime. Why?
Amir Adnan: Yes, I haven't done a show in a while. I want to do one
but I want to do it systematically. I don't think charity and fashion
gels well together because fashion often takes a backseat. I don't
want to do a show just for the sake of doing it. If I'm showing an
Autumn/Winter collection, I want to make sure that it is available
in all my stores across the country. Every outfit from the collection
should be available at the stores. That is the purpose of showing.
Instep: How has the response been to Amir Adnan Women (his latest
brand that offers ready to wear trousseau and bridal wear)?
Amir Adnan: Amir Adnan Women is our line of prêt a couture.
It offers high value outfits over the shelf. We have multiple colours
and a variation in sizes. Everything is finished. It saves clients
the hassle of trials and appointments. And with our jewellery line,
one can find an outfit and the jewellery to go with it.
In the pipeline are accessories like shoes and bags. So it will be
a one-stop shop where everything is available.
Instep: As someone who's into mass retail, you've also suffered the
lack of general logistical infrastructure in Pakistan. Have you ever
thought of moving production to another country?
Amir Adnan: I have never thought about moving production outside Pakistan.
If I'm catering to the Pakistani market, it makes no sense to move
production. The problem is lack of industry infrastructure. The system
will develop when there are 200 more people like me in the industry
working on a mass retail scale.
Instep: Has the Trade Development Authority of Pakistan (TDAP) ever
assisted your business in Dubai?
Amir Adnan: TDAP has a scheme. If a brand such as mine is operating
outside Pakistan, they will subsidize 50 per cent of rent in the first
year, 25 per cent in the second year and ten per cent in the third
year. I have received two cheques from them. But it took two years
for the first cheque to arrive. Then the second cheque arrived much
later. The subsidy is for the rent, not the cost.
In my personal view, it is unreasonable and unrealistic to expect
the government to cover costs. Businesses should sustain themselves
irrespective of any help from the government. These schemes exist
to promote export. It is a sign of encouragement from the government.
But we also have to see that this is a developing nation and the government
has a lot on its plate.
Instep: What is your take on the Lux Style Awards?
Amir Adnan: I've won once. The last LSA I saw was the one in Malaysia.
It was sweet of them to fly all of us out there. And it was a great
show. I missed last year's show. But I believe that it is perhaps
the only platform where we are acknowledged. Everyone who condemns
the show must realize that to put up such a show is a monumental task.
They should try to do it and if they can't, they should encourage
the show. It's a wonderful thing they do.
–?Amir
Adnan was talking to Maheen Sabeeh
– Amir Adnan jewellery can be seen on Style Section.
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