 Legs and shoulders: that's what you need to be fashionable these days. Legs to carry you into the new age of fashion as they kick convention in the shin. And shoulders to bear the weight of power dressing, the antithesis of both 'femininity' - a word that designers have loved to flirt with, time immemorial - and 'feminism' that fashion's adversaries have always loved to hate fashion with. In a stroke of brilliance, Sanam Agha conformed to neither without offending either.
Her debut collection was a lady's vision of a woman about town, a collection that strapped sky high Manolo Blahniks on Carrie Bradshaw and took her on time travel to twentieth century Manhattan in harem pants that could just as easily pass for bloomers. It was an all-western collection for men and women but in its diversity of pattern it traveled just as easily to contemporary Karachi, where knee high harem parts and dresses are fast becoming the order of the day (rather night) for party-goers.
Sanam Agha launched her label 'Sanam' with an exhibition several months ago but while exhibitions always aim to sell, fashion shows on the contrary aim to impress and that, this one certainly did. It won't be remembered as one of the best or biggest debuts ever, certainly not one of the most organized for it was unnecessarily delayed but what it will be remembered for is its brave approach towards throwing up fashion that has absolutely nothing to do with its commercial value. In that regard this was the bravest debut since Adnan Pardesy's last year.
It was a warm, windy evening in Karachi, planned to avoid the holy month in the nick of time. Sanam had gathered only media and friends - old and new - who were seated around the catwalk corridor as well as were walking on it as her models. And as the very real models walked out - Nomi Ansari, Shakila Hasan, Faizan Haque, Sajid Hasan, Tariq Amin and many others - wearing Sanam's first collection, it was very clear that fashion was as much a part of this young designer's life as the people who were modeling it for her. And the way she easily brought the two together indicated that she is ready to take her brand places.
And it's high time too, because very much like the dragonfly - leitmotif of Sanam's label - Sanam Agha has been treading a path of constant evolution. People might call it indecisiveness or instability but winds of change are so tempting when you're young that you easily float on drifting clouds. And Sanam has been wandering. She has shuffled through VJing on television, acting, modeling, event management (with Frieha Altaf at Catwalk) and maybe even more. But the good thing is that she had the sense to acquire a fashion degree from London Fashion School, something that came in extremely handy when she decided to finally settle down with fashion. It was the best decision she could have made because through everything else she has done, she has created an awareness that now connects her to fashion. You know you've done well when your peers and seniors give you a nod of approval and not only did the established lot lend her that support but one even ordered a pair of pants for herself. That's not a nod, rather a seal of approval. There was genuine camaraderie in the front rows, eager cheers and applause to give this young designer the encouragement she deserves.
 Sanam's women's collection established a very distinct signature within the first few minutes of the show. It was all about luxurious, sensual clothing that had an unexpected edge at the same time. The salmon pink satin had a luxe fifties feel to it, and as the colour palette shifted between delicate pinks, blues and shades of white and white, so did the silhouette. One minute there was a blacked ruffled dress fit for a ball and the other a white column shift that was a day dress that could easily have passed off for sexy sleep wear. It was sexy without being overtly raunchy. Very Dolce and Gabbana. Defining lines were conveniently softened out and the only thing they pointed towards is strength. It was a collection that did not succumb to femininity or embellishment, rather it was structured to make a strong statement in style.
Sanam managed a younger spin on dresses unlike most of the bejeweled items many designers attempt to create and then call fusion (confusion would be more like it). Her lowers were diverse, with harem pants/bloomers to skirts, tights and longer pleated trousers lending ideas to eager eyes. This was western wear as it should be: created as separates with the flexibility for adaptation.
A special round of applause to Sanam's celebrity models who easily translated her sense of fashion from 'reel to real'. That said, Angeline Malik would be better off kept away from the catwalk.
 Sanam's men's collection was mostly restricted to two piece suits, some of them worn shirtless, thankfully only by male models (as well as the just as well toned Munna Mushtaq). They were rather simple and straightforward, the quirk frequently happening on the lapel but not in a very desirable way. Sanam's technical training in London has taught her how to cut a suit to perfection but there was nothing terribly innovative in the designs and one feels she will have a tougher time developing a signature for menswear. The recurring dragonfly motif of course was eye catching and promised further evolution and creativity in its symbolism.
A special mention to Nomi Ansari and Faizan Haque, both of whom were first time models who took to the catwalk with ease. They can easily find a parallel profession in celebrity modeling. Of course, they'd have to keep their shirts on for it!
So legs, shoulders and most definitely guts is what it takes to be fashionable these days. And Sanam Agha proved that she has what it takes. In hind sight there have been several new kids on the block this year, but not many who have made such an impression. With this debut show, fashion opens its doors to another young designer who perceives fashion in a contemporary light, exactly the way it needs to be seen.
Photography: Kohi Marri and Ayaz Anis
Hair, makeup, styling and choreography: Tariq Amin
Event management:
Wow Factor |
