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photofeature
By Yasir Nisar Sir Olaf Caroe, the
Governor of North-West Frontier Province (1946), described his initial
impression of Rohtas Fort in the following words "There it stands,
sprawling across a low rocky hill a few Though not known for any
special or historical event, Rohtas is still known all over the world for its
grandeur and sheer size. Spread over in a perimetre of alomost 6 kilometres,
the significance of the fort can be gauged from the fact that UNESCO has
included it in the world heritage list -- one of t Though a classic example of
Muslim heritage, the approach to Rohtas Fort was pathetic till a few years
ago with the road in real bad shape. If you are planning to visit a historical place or just want to go for a day's picnic, Rohtas Fort is a safe bet. Whenever you decide to go choose a day when the sky is clear -- to get a better idea of the grandeur of the fort. Take with you plenty of water and wear some sensible shoes as there is a lot of walking, and don't forget to take a bottle of sun block. You will enjoy and want to go back, just like I do.
The sparkling domes of saints' shrines in Badin town are conspicuous from a distance. The cult of visiting such shrines is deeply embedded in the local culture of Badin district. There are more than six popular shrines located in and around the city of Badin where one finds a large number of people at all times of the year. A neglected shrine of Shahabuddin alias Shah Badi is situated two kilometres northwest of the town on the left bank of Qazia wah (water canal). The necropolis where the dilapidated tomb of Shahabuddin exists is locally known as Shah Badi Jo Muqam (cemetery of Shah Badi). According to local accounts Shahabuddin was one of the descendents of Bahauddin Zikriya who is believed to have established a thriving Suhrawardi centre in his native town Multan. Many of his descendents, disciples and deputies (Khalifas) travelled to Sindh to spread their mentor's thought and ideology. The prominent shrines of Bahauddin Zikriya's disciples and deputies in Badin are that of Shaikh Nurio, Shaikh Zakariyo, Rajsen Soomrani, Jarkas Dinani, Garho Saddar (at Samaro, Umarkot) Ibrahim Nagorani (at Tando Jan Muhammad, Mirpurkhas), Haji Badruddin, Lakho Pir, Shah Billa, Pir Pathai, Mithrao Pir etc. All of these shrines are frequently visited by people. Badin was home to deputies and descendents of Shaikh Bahauddin Qureshi. Many of his descendents stayed back in the respective villages and towns where they were deputed to preach Suhrawardi teachings. Shahabuddin was one among the lot. Some local people hold that Badin carries his name as he was popularly known as Shah Badi. However, this claim is debatable since there are other stories about the source of this name. The graveyard contains a number of tombstones of his family members. Apart from them, it is dotted with many crumbling tombs of common people and dignitaries. At present the tomb of Shahabuddin Qureshi is in shambles and is not properly managed and maintained by his alleged descendents living in a nearby village by the name of Qureshan Jo Goth (village of Qureshis). Ironically, the tomb of Mian Ali which is located in the village of Qureshis is properly supervised and an annual religious festival is held at the shrine -- drawing thousands of people from all over Sindh. Apart from the shrines of Suhrawardi saints (Shahabuddin and Mian Ali), a shrine of Shah Qadri also dominates the landscape of Badin town. This shrine is greatly venerated by both Hindu and Muslims. Hindus of lower castes frequently visit the shrine in the hope of seeking the blessings of the saint. The real name of Shah Qadri was Shahabuddin Jilani. He belonged to Qadria Silsila (mystical order) of Sufism. His shrine always remains crowded with his devotees who come to pay homage daily. Shah Qadri, fourteenth century saint, is known to have converted many Jats of Badin and Thatta. Many people flocked to his Sufi lodge and enrolled as his disciples. The shrines of his disciples are located in different parts of Sindh and Kutch. He had family relations with Jilani pirs of Lakhpt in Kutch. Both the families of Jilanis played a very important role in the political history of Sindh and acted as mediators during the war. Furthermore, their advice was invariably sought whenever the country was undergoing political turmoil and chaos. Like their counterpart Suhrawardi saints, the Qadri saints also wielded great influence over the rulers of Sindh. Two eminent Qadri Sufis -- Shaikh Ahmed Baghdadi and Shaikh Muhammad -- are said to have come to Sindh with forty disciples to preach their teachings. Bakhar, Nasarpur Thatta and Badin were some of the important Qadri centres at that time. Sehwan also produced the famous Qadri Sufi, Mian Mir, a disciple of Shaikh Khizr Siwestani, who later on travelled to Lahore. The tomb of Shah Qadri is grand, built in a square plan and adorned with stucco indicating the aesthetic taste of the builder. It is believed to have been ordered by one of his descendents Pir Aali Shah whose tomb also stands next to Shah Qadri. The cemetery of Shah Qadri is home to thousands of graves of his disciples and ordinary people. During the time of mela, a great hustle and bustle is seen at the shrine. Another important shrine that dots the landscape of Badin town is that of Syed Abdul Nabi Shah alias Maha Wali. A splendid tomb is built over the mortal remains of Syed Abdul Nabi Shah. An inscription on the facade of tomb reads his name as 'Syed Abdul Nabi Shah Al-Hasni Al Huseni alias Maha Wali Jilani Qadri'. Syed Abdul Nabi Shah also belonged to the same family as Shah Qadri. Like other Qadri saints, he too converted many people and spread the Qadri silsila in many Indian villages and towns. Many people come to this shrine and pray that their wishes be fulfilled. The shrine of Syed Abdul Nabi Shah also attracts a large number of people during the mela (religious festival) time. The tomb of Burhan Shah which is located two kilometres south of Badin town has also become a place where people go every day. Burhan shah was not a saint or religious person. He was believed to be a Mughal administrator in Badin. Barring the shrine of Shah Qadri, the most renowned shrine in Badin is that of Khawaja Muhammad Zaman of Luari Sharif. The shrine of Khwaja Muhammad Zaman is located ten kilometres away from Badin on Kadan road. He was a disciple of Mian Abul Qasim Naqshbandi and Mian Muhammad Naqshbandi Thattavi. Naqshbandi sufis entered Sindh during the fifteenth century. The most notable early Naqshbandis were Pir Murad (died 1487) and his brother Ali Shirazi Kalan. During the lifetime of Khwaja Muhammad Zaman, Luari Sharif became a thriving and flourishing centre of Naqshbandi sufis. His name and fame spread far and wide making him the single renowned Naqshbandi scholar and saint of the time. Moreover, his disciples and vicegerents namely Abdul Rahim Girhori, Shaikh Abu Talib Aghami, Shaikh Haji Muhammad Saleh, Hafiz Hidayatullah and Shaikh Qazi Ahmed spread his message to common folks of the bucolic areas of Sindh. Nowadays, the shrine of Khwaja Muhammad Zaman is closed for devotees and general public due to a rift that arose between the two families of Gadi Nashins resulting in some casualties and closure of the shrine for an indefinite period. |
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miles
north of Jhelum. Its great ramparts growing from the cliff like the wall of
China, looking north a sandy stream bed to the low hills of the salt range
and beyond them, to the snows of Pir Panjal. The circumference is large
enough easily to hold a couple of Divisions of troops. As you appr
oach
the fort, the crenellations look like ominous rows of helmeted warriors
watching you with disapproval. It is an awe-inspiring sight."(from 'The
Future of Great Game' by Peter John Brobst).
he
reasons being its exceptional Muslim military architecture of central and
South Asia, which blends architectural and artistic traditions from Turkey
and the Indian subcontinent. It thus became a model for Mughal architecture
and its subsequent refinements and adaptations.
I
guess we owe special thanks to the distrcit government for now finally there
is a bridge over the River Gahan which earlier people had to cross on foot.
The fort is approachable from the main highway -- GT Road -- if one takes the
right turning from Deena, which is a railway station as well as one of the
busiest bus stops about 100 kilometres from Islamabad. At the time of Sher
Shah Suri, the GT Road used to pass by the fort but during the British period
it was shifted to its present route. That is why one has to make this detour
to reach the fort.