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Marc
Jacobs
The American fashion designer whose work has always been largely previewed
brought the fashion week to an end with his second Label Marc. Jacobs
has been the creative director of luxury French fashion house, Louis
Vuitton since 1997. Marc Jacobs went his own way with the finale show,
closing eight days of previews of next season's styles. But he did
play with the pairing of opposites in proportion, a broader trend
throughout the week. Marc Jacobs turned New York Fashion Week upside
down. He created a runway that was more like a concert space -- complete
with Sonic Youth on the stage playing live while models made their
way around the rectangular space first to the photographers and then
up a set of stairs to an actual catwalk. And then there were the clothes
that didn't fit into any of the trends advocated by other influential
designers. There were no feathers, no purple and certainly no tweed. |
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Project
Runway
For the uninitiated, Project Runway is the reality TV series that
plays American Idol for fashion. American Idol winners find themselves
holding Grammys and Project Runway winners get a chance to show at
NY Fashion Week! It doesn't get bigger than that. Christian Siriano,
the contestant fans love to hate, was a tent favorite with an avant-garde
collection playing with feathers, oversized ruffles and curvy blazers
with wide shoulders and flared hips. Rami Kashou , a Jerusalem native
known for his dramatic draping and red-carpet gowns showed just that.
Jillian Lewis who uses art and the architecture of Gaudí as
inspiration showed standout sculpted coats. Chris March went for high
drama with velvet, beading and brocade. Kathleen "Sweet P"
takes her cues from Prada, John Galliano, Marni, Chloé, Phillip
Lim, and Balenciaga and went for a wearable collection of mustard
yellow, purple and exposed zippers. Victoria Beckham, Elle McPhearson
and Marc Jacobs were at the show. Not bad for a new designer, eh? |
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Zang
Toi
Zang Toi left home in Malaysia at 18 to pursue a career in fashion.
He traveled first to Toronto and then New York where he studied at
Parsons the New School for Design. In 1989 he opened his own label
with a bright collection of suits, dresses and sarongs. Zang Toi,
who is known for couture-level luxury, created several dresses that
featured an American Indian motif in deep red and black, in addition
to a magnificent floor length white parka with Mongolian lamb collar.Toi
has become an international success and is a favorite among stars
such as Ivana Trump, Sharon Stone, Eva Longoria, Debra Messing, Patti
Labelle, Farrah Fawcett, Angela Bassett and Fergie from the Black
Eyed Peas. Celebrity endorsement and showing at the most prestigious
Fashion Week in the world… sorry Paris, it is about numbers.
And when you've made it in New York, you know you have arrived in
the world. Let's see if he keeps this up or if he takes a backseat
like Indian design whiz Sabyasachi Mukherjee! |
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Ralph
Lauren
The world famous American designer presented a fall collection that
is very much for the chic city woman. There probably aren't many reasons
to pack a sexy cowl-neck gown in bright orange velvet for a weekend
at the hunting lodge, but there was a high-neck cocktail dress in
green plaid that would be a good candidate for holiday parties whether
you're here or there. But ultimately his show was about hats. It seems
that he was rebelling against the nonchalance that has come to define
the fashion of Marc Jacobs and so many others. Forget androgyny, this
collection seemed to say, women should be ladies! |
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Australians
encroach
Fashion has historically been Eurocentric, but after Australian Fashion
Week, talent from Down Under has been making inroads. This year saw
Kit Willow, Jayson Brunsdon and Sass and Bide hit the New York Fashion
Week runway. They may be names in Australia, but the whole world is
waiting.
As Sky News Australia duly noted in a write up: "Nothing compares
to exposure provided by New York fashion week with more than one hundred
members of the fashion industry attending the shows as well as global
broadcast and press coverage."
Building a brand is about being in the public eye. They made their
mark in their home country and now they are on to the world. That's
the way to do it in the fashion world! |
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