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"I want people to think and not buy fashion blindly."
Feeha Jamshed, heir to the massive Teejay fashion brand, talks about reinventing her father's business and bringing in a new perspective to his vision.

 
Feeha Jamshed is what the next generation of fashion designing in Pakistan is all about. She's someone who lives fashion without being brand conscious. Even when she walks in today, wearing white denim under black boots and a warm, white jacket accessorized by a red checkered keffiyah and silver jewelry, she waves off a question about the brands she can identity with and confirms that most of her favourite pieces (including the boots and jacket) are from Karachi's infamous Itwaar Bazar. It's all about putting the right things together, and it's this perspective that she's bringing to the house of Teejays.
 
One of Tanveer Jamshed' s four children, Feeha and her brother Mohammad Ali are the only two involved in the clothing business. And Mohammad Ali has very clearly said he wants to stay away from the fashion side of it, Feeha laughs. So while he handles administration, she handles design and creativity. Teejay himself now plays the role of a godfather as he doesn't keep the best of health these days and has had to disassociate himself from the demands of the competitive business. But one has to say that with Feeha, it appears to be in good hands.

She stepped into the design department a year and a half ago, with an Eid collection that was an instant hit and one year on she very clearly demarcates western wear as her focus in prêt a porter or ready to wear. In this quick conversation with Instep, this is what Feeha also known as Feejay had to say…

Instep: What is your vision for taking Teejays forward?
Feeha Jamshed: My philosophy is the same as my dad. He's always been affected by what's happening around him and it'll stay that way. In Zia's time the dupatta did come in; fashion changes according to what's happening around us. And for me, prêt now is about western wear.

Instep: Do you think the people will be open to accepting western wear in their daily wardrobes? French collars and jumpsuits (featured in Feeha's spring/summer 2009 collection) aren't exactly what people see or wear in Pakistan?
FeeJay: They might not accept it at first but I believe that when something is constantly being put out, then people will eventually be interested in it. They might walk past a shop window displaying western wear once or twice but they will be intrigued the third time. I don't necessarily want them to accept it anyway. The idea is to give them choice and encourage them to think. Because I feel that our nation has become a bit too 'accepting' about everything that is thrown towards them. We lack the thought process; we have become zombies. I want people to think and not buy fashion blindly.

Instep: Do you think the fashion industry is hospitable terrain for newcomers?
Feejay: One has to take the good and the bad in one's stride. I try and take the negativity and channel it into positivity. That said, struggle is important and it makes a man feel alive. And everyone in this industry needs to struggle, whether they are new or old. Even the established designers need to struggle. The fashion industry has grown and I always say it has grown with the good, the bad and the ugly.

Instep: Will you be hiring new fashion graduates at Teejays?
Feejay: We will be hiring eventually, though not now. I know we're at a standing where we can but right now we're just getting things back in order.
Instep: How important do you think any designer's personal image is to his brand?
Feejay: I wouldn't say it is terribly important per say but we all need to promote our collections or what we are designing it and talking about it or wearing it is part of marketing it. It's up to each individual. You should speak your product, adopt your baby.

Instep: What are the three things you think necessary for Pakistan's fashion industry to take off in any substantial way?
Feejay: Unity, faith and discipline. I think we all need to abide by these three things on an individual level and then on a national level. International will automatically follow. Ego is the downfall of anyone.
But unity, faith and discipline is what the industry needs. Two to three people going abroad for shows every year doesn't change an industry. Even if we don't get along with other people, it's a must to come together in order to move forward.

Feeha Jamshed was talking to Aamna Haider Isani
– Her new collection for Teejays can be seen on Style Section