visit
On coaster along the coast

The highlight of the coastal highway remains the Buzi Pass, through which Alexander the Great is also thought to have passed
By Shahzada Irfan Ahmed
Initially, this adventurous idea was turned down by most of us. To travel all the way from Gwadar to Karachi by road, and that also in the month of June, was not a sane choice in our view. However, our tour leader was least moved and decided not to alter the plan. Besides, it was already too late to revise it as according to him an air-conditioned coaster had reached Gwadar from Karachi a day earlier. We had to board the same coach as those available in Gwadar. The reason for unavailability of quality vehicles in Gwadar is that though Makran Coastal Highway is complete there is not much movement of public to these places from upcountry.

A palace for a school
Bedi Palace is in a bad condition these days due to neglect and a 'couldn't care less' attitude by the authorities
By Ishrat Hyatt
One historical site not frequented by the average tourist, or those out on a sight-seeing trip, is the fort of Lord, Baba Khem Singh Bedi, a prominent Sikh spiritual leader of Kallar Syedan, who was knighted for "loyalty and invaluable services" by Queen Victoria. He hailed from Una Sharif in Hushiarpur, East Punjab and came to this region somewhere between 1860 and 1865. 

Initially, this adventurous idea was turned down by most of us. To travel all the way from Gwadar to Karachi by road, and that also in the month of June, was not a sane choice in our view. However, our tour leader was least moved and decided not to alter the plan. Besides, it was already too late to revise it as according to him an air-conditioned coaster had reached Gwadar from Karachi a day earlier. We had to board the same coach as those available in Gwadar. The reason for unavailability of quality vehicles in Gwadar is that though Makran Coastal Highway is complete there is not much movement of public to these places from upcountry.

When we woke up that day, the first thing we came to know about was that the travel plan was intact and the tour leader was about a deliver a speech to us. Soon we found him amongst us, trying to boost our morale. I can still remember the words that he said with sheer conviction. The words were: "What you're going to see on your way is something that you have never seen and will never forget for the rest of your lives." It was soon that we realised that he was absolutely right.

The journey started early in the day as the journey takes between 10 to 12 hours to reach Karachi. Minutes after plying on the coastal highway, the driver slowed down the coaster in front of a semi-built structure. All of us were amused to find that this was the famous sabzi mandi (about which we have repeatedly heard from Javed Miandad: it will be only such facility in Gwadar). The next stop was at a filling station where the driver got the tank filled to the brim. Unlike the filling stations in big cities, this one constituted just one machine with the pipe immersed in a small container called 'drum'. The other dissimilarity was that the products on sale were Iranian and the price tag much lower. For example, supreme quality oil was easily available at Rs 30 per litre.

Once the payment was made, the journey resumed. Our first proposed destination was Pasni -- some 208 kilometres from Gwadar -- where we were supposed to have refreshments.

The coastal highway is a two-lane road with all types of landscape along it. During the first half an hour of the journey, we could not get a glimpse of the sea but soon the beautiful coast and turquoise blue waters of the Arabian Sea were right in front of us. The coaster kept running along the coast for long. At places, the coast came so close that it seemed the water could splash across the coaster's body, especially during high tide.

The stay at Pasni was brief. We rushed to the local bazaar and found its shops flooded with Iranian packed food products. Canned green peas, chick pea and tuna were everywhere besides smuggled goods coming from every part of the world. A shopkeeper told us that it was more feasible to get supplies from Iran as it was 70 kilometres away from Gwadar as compared to Karachi that lay at a distance of around 700 kilometres from Gwadar. The "lenient attitude" of coast guard and customs department are other factors that have promoted this trend along the coastal belt, the locals say. Due to this easy availability of Iranian products in these coastal areas directly under Pakistan's administrative control, the saying "Andaa Iran ka aur danda Pakistan ka" has become popular.

After Pasni we took a break at Ormara -- a place where Pakistan Army has set up a naval base. This area showed great promise as a potential tourist spot with vast beaches to capitalise on.

The real amazement began once we left Ormara. The landscape that we came across was amazing especially that lying along the 75 kilometres-long Buzi Pass. We came across huge cliffs and walls made of clay, rocky terrains, sand dunes, and amazing rock formations that made us think that the area had probably been sea bed for ages.Historians say that Alexander the Great had also travelled through Buzi Pass area.

Hingol River, Hingol National Park and the rock outcrop resembling a lady are some of the major attractions. It is said that this rock outcrop was christened the 'Princess of Good Hope' by Angelina Jolie who visited these coastal areas in 2002.

The construction work against the rugged rocky terrains was awarded to Frontier Works Organisation (FWO) due to the complexities and difficulties involved in the project. FWO was able to meet the challenge -- something that's found written on many rocks with the help of chalk.

The coastal highway ends at a place called Zero Point near Vinder in Balochistan. From zero point one can either turn towards Quetta or towards Karachi. We obviously took the road leading to Karachi via Hub.

Soon we were back on congested and overcrowded roads. But most of us still thinking about the coastal highway. There was no doubt that the construction of this road was a landmark achievement. One can hope it will go a longway in uplifting the economy of the coastal areas as well as the country. Strange it may be, but it appears the government that has neglected these coastal areas for decades means business this time. May be it's the foreign element in the projects related to Gwadar port's development that has made the difference.


A palace for a school
Bedi Palace is in a bad condition these days due to neglect and a 'couldn't care less' attitude by the authorities
By Ishrat Hyatt

One historical site not frequented by the average tourist, or those out on a sight-seeing trip, is the fort of Lord, Baba Khem Singh Bedi, a prominent Sikh spiritual leader of Kallar Syedan, who was knighted for "loyalty and invaluable services" by Queen Victoria. He hailed from Una Sharif in Hushiarpur, East Punjab and came to this region somewhere between 1860 and 1865.

Bedi Palace is exceptional because of its construction and workmanship and has the typical look of palaces built in that era. Khem Singh, being a perfectionist, hired the best masons from Attock, well-known for their expertise in Mughal architecture.

The building, the biggest and tallest in the region, is made up of four stories with 45 rooms and two underground basements. Materials used in its construction include stone, marble, seasoned wood and baked bricks, while the plastering has been done with a fine paste of red clay and lime. It could be seen on walking through the rooms that they have been designed in such a manner that every part of the building is well-lit and ventilated. The walls are at least three feet wide, while the rooftop gives a fantastic, all round view of the whole area, both built up and lush green countryside. Of course many of these constructions have come up after partition, so the original view must have been greener and grander!

Bedi palace was previously surrounded by a large square, fortified by a boundary wall that also enclosed long rows of servant quarters and stables for the many horses that the Bedi family kept, since they were fond of riding and hunting, which were considered the sports of royalty. The large square is now, in part, a playing ground and part built upon area, where a government school has been constructed without taking into consideration the historical value of the site -- but at least further destruction of the building has been avoided.

The approach to the palace is appallingly filthy as you have to walk quite a long distance through narrow pedestrian alleys, with overflowing drains and garbage lying all around -- a result of young 'educated' household members now being ashamed to clean outside their homes, something which was done with pride in days gone by. This approach is a far cry from the levelled road that was built in 24 hours all the way from Rwat when the Viceroy of India visited the palace during the Second World War! He came to seek the assistance of the Bedi family in a difficult period and the family took great pride in welcoming him to the family retreat -- they had a very special relationship after this which came in handy later on.

This road, which would have given easy access to the palace, is now unusable for various reasons, one being that encroachments have taken over. It was interesting but heart-breaking to go around this small palace and inspect its architecture. It's in a bad condition these days due to neglect and a 'couldn't care less' attitude by the authorities who should be taking care of it. Used for many years by the government as a school for the children of the locality, its precious wall paintings depicting Sikh culture and mythology have been ruined by the students, who have scratched their names across faces and figures. White ants are running rampant in many parts of the woodwork, including the roofs and the beautifully carved windows and doors.

The front door, which is a marvel of craftsmanship, is cracking and in need of measures to save it from disintegration. Walls and floors are slowly but surely being eroded for lack of upkeep and repair. It is frustrating and a feeling of helplessness overcomes when you see the destruction taking place when it could so easily be stopped. If this building had been anywhere else in the world it would have been preserved as a treasure and made a tourist attraction.

Unfortunately, in Pakistan nothing is done to preserve and maintain historical monuments that are not only wonderful to look at but have a fascinating history as well. What are the people in charge of heritage doing? This palace needs to be renovated and refurbished to its original beauty and preserved as a heritage site.

Visitors from India, especially Sikhs, are interested in the palace because of its historical value to their community. Since the palace was built in a predominantly Muslim area, Khem Singh had the foresight to carefully plan a strong defence and fortify it against attack. Many of their forefathers were saved from massacre by Muslims during partition, when they fortified themselves inside its four walls.

With good weapons at hand and plenty of food to sustain them, everyone inside was kept safe until a contingent of Gurkhas sent by the Viceroy rescued them and provided a safe passage to India. They took along jewellery and personal belongings but everything else was looted or gifted to influential politicians and dignitaries. A chandelier studded with precious and semi-precious stones was auctioned for just over Rs 500!

Elderly people living in the area have many stories to tell about the family and the palace and a young boy who hung around as we toured the palace told how these stories have been passed down and become legends. This palace has the potential to become a big attraction for all tourists especially those interested in architectural sites of historical significance. A fee for entry into the premises can provide money for its upkeep, but only after it is restored.

Three school teachers are keeping an eye on the place as the school has been shifted to the new building mentioned above, while one of them is occupying a room in the building. Though they appear to be trying their best, they have neither the expertise nor the funds required for its upkeep 

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