visit
An evening at Evernew
An American student’s research trip on Punjabi cinema to one of 
Multan Road’s busiest film studios, is loaded with surprises
By Gwendolyn S. Kirk
The beautiful decorative gate, its baroque wrought iron depicting a woman posing slyly for an old-style movie camera, was nearly lost in the chaos, swirling dust and slanted light of late afternoon on Multan Road. The rotund ‘chowkidar’ (watchman) ambled forward to open the gate for the car and we slid into the parking lot where we were greeted, to my great amusement, by a tall gate labelled “Central Jail, Peshawar.” Looking through the gate, on the first-floor veranda of a slightly crumbling office building, I could see Askari saheb sitting observing the comings and goings of the studio. It was my first trip to Evernew Studios and despite the torpor of the April afternoon I felt a strange excitement upon entering the studio compound.

MOOD STREET
A woman I met in the street
By Irfan Aslam
Life is dark and it gets darker if one looks at it more closely. The first time I saw her standing on the roadside on Wahdat Road, on my way back home from office at midnight, was when she was ‘burning the midnight oil,’ literally, in her own way. For me, the day’s work was over but for that girl (in a veil), it seemed to have just begun. And how. 
I just gave her a casual glance, albeit knowingly, and wondered what she was doing there. 

TOWN TALK
* Summer Farmers Market, a Khalis Foods project, comes back to Lahore at Greens Hall on MM Alam Road, on June 2, Sunday (today), offering fresh and organic produce, hormone-free dairy products, traceable meats, free-range and ‘desi’ poultry, healthy grains, baked goods and fresh juices. There will also be Live cooking for the visitors, aside from activities for families. 

disaster
Third in a row
The recent collapse of a pedestrian bridge on Ring Road could have easily been avoided if there was a single authority to initiate and maintain such huge engineering projects

By Arshad Dogar
Hasty projects with little or no regard for engineering prerequisites and formalities have put the lives of scores of road users in danger as the pedestrian bridges, especially on the Ring Road, have been collapsing one by one due to small collisions with overloaded vehicles.

By Mr & Mrs Kim
Udon House, a one-stop, quick-meal place, opens the Lahoris to Korean food
By Alefia T. Hussain  
For the Lahori meat-loving gastrocrat, this little eatery in Gulberg is too basic — oh well! It’s just an extension of the kitchen, not sconced and glossed. It’s not where she or he would smack the lips and blink a lot to hold the taste. It’s everything the Lahori food scene is not.  

Project clean-up
caption  
The area around Masjid Wazir Khan is being cleared of all sorts of encroachments by the Walled City Lahore Authority.

 

 

 

 

 

visit
An evening at Evernew
An American student’s research trip on Punjabi cinema to one of 
Multan Road’s busiest film studios, is loaded with surprises
By Gwendolyn S. Kirk

The beautiful decorative gate, its baroque wrought iron depicting a woman posing slyly for an old-style movie camera, was nearly lost in the chaos, swirling dust and slanted light of late afternoon on Multan Road. The rotund ‘chowkidar’ (watchman) ambled forward to open the gate for the car and we slid into the parking lot where we were greeted, to my great amusement, by a tall gate labelled “Central Jail, Peshawar.” Looking through the gate, on the first-floor veranda of a slightly crumbling office building, I could see Askari saheb sitting observing the comings and goings of the studio. It was my first trip to Evernew Studios and despite the torpor of the April afternoon I felt a strange excitement upon entering the studio compound.

Convincing my committee at the University of Texas that my dissertation research topic should be Punjabi cinema in Pakistan had been relatively easy. I outlined a brief history of the industry and explained why I found this cinema interesting over all others and why I believed it would be a particularly fruitful ground for ethnographic, linguistic and theoretical exploration.

There is relatively little academic work on the cinema of Pakistan (as compared to scores of books and articles on the cinema of India, or Iran, or of course western countries). Moreover, as a linguistic anthropologist, I found the position of Punjabi in Pakistan to be singularly interesting. How is it that the most common mother tongue in such a large country is almost entirely excluded from news media, education and the political sphere?

Of course, there is literary and academic work being done in Punjabi and even one or two newspapers, but the proportion is relatively small.

Cinema, however, has existed as a major site of Punjabi-language cultural production for decades. I wanted to learn the specifics of language in film production, for instance what languages are used by filmmakers, which varieties of Punjabi are used onscreen, and what are the characteristic ‘performative’ modes of the filmi Punjab? All of these seemed like reasonable, straightforward and obvious questions for a linguistic anthropologist to ask. Then I actually arrived in Lahore.

When asked about my research by my colleagues and acquaintences here, generally the responses were either of utter bemusement to a sad smile and a shake of the head at my outsider’s naivete. “Film industry to khatm ho chuki hai!” was the first reaction of more than one interlocutor. “No films are even being made anymore! All the studios have closed! There is no one left!”

Unsurprisingly, the people who made such comments were invariably the kind of people who had not even visited a cinema hall in the past twenty, even thirty years, and for whom Punjabi cinema had at best been a marginal phenomenon and at worst a kind of a joke.

Fortunately, I had a feeling that they were wrong, and it was not long before I was lucky enough to find proof that although perhaps its output had decreased, its audience had shrunk and cinema halls were fewer and far between, the heart of the industry had not stopped. There was still a pulse.

Through weeks of careful persistence and good fortune I had managed to contact a wide range of people in the Pakistani film industry. I was lucky enough to spend time with Syed Noor and Saima, his actor wife, had the opportunity to interview Hassan Askari and others, and I blushed like a tongue-tied schoolgirl when I met the very dapper Mustafa Qureshi. Who would have thought that the fierce Noori Nutt (from the 1970s’ phenomenally successful Maula Jatt) could be so soft-spoken and charming?

And, now I found myself entering the historic studio. Its rainbow-coloured compound was perhaps a bit worn and crumbling and certainly not as bustling as it had once been. Yet, it seemed at least to me that there was a magical aura about the place, that I had entered a different world.

I walked through the garden-like central courtyard, cool and spacious with mango trees, roses, jasmine bushes and a large fountain. I passed the large floors, the recording studio where, I am told, most of Noor Jehan’s hits were made, and the offices of a dozen producers and writers, groups of whom were sitting outside chatting. I asked one of them the way to where Askari saheb sits and he pointed me towards him but not before introducing himself. By coincidence, I had bumped into the director Pervez Rana.

After a few minutes of brief introductions he took interest in my research and offered to allow me to sit on his upcoming shooting as a sort of an honorary assistant director. Of course, I jumped at the chance, thus beginning the most productive phase of my research.

Sitting in the studio in the evenings, drinking tea with people who do every kind of work in the industry (directors, choreographers, editors, writers, music directors, actors, everyone) one thing is clear — that cinema is alive and even those sitting in their air-conditioned living rooms watching Indian serials on Star Plus etc, those who wouldn’t set foot on a Lakshmi Chowk theatre, cannot escape this fact.

Cinema is a space of infinite possibilities, where we simultaneously connect with each other and understand ourselves more deeply. Jean-Luc Godard famously stated, “If photography is truth, then cinema is truth twenty-four times per second.” Through cinema, the identities of nation-states are built and reproduced; even the most over-the-top, unrealistic movie still holds up a mirror to the face of society, offering new ways of understanding the world around us. Is it possible for such a powerful medium to ever be completely destroyed? No. Yet it needs help to flourish once again. Like any other art form, cinema needs patronage to grow and evolve.

There is much that the government can do to support the Pakistani cinema industry (and thousands of people who work in it). Moreover, it is important for the citizens of the country themselves to take an active interest in local cinema.

The writer is a student at the University of Texas, Austin

caption

There was a magical aura about the place. — Photos by the author

caption

The government should support the local cinema industry and, thereby, thousands of people working at the studios.

 

 

 

 

   

 

 

 MOOD STREET
A woman I met in the street
By Irfan Aslam

Life is dark and it gets darker if one looks at it more closely. The first time I saw her standing on the roadside on Wahdat Road, on my way back home from office at midnight, was when she was ‘burning the midnight oil,’ literally, in her own way. For me, the day’s work was over but for that girl (in a veil), it seemed to have just begun. And how.

I just gave her a casual glance, albeit knowingly, and wondered what she was doing there.

My second time was another chance ‘meeting.’ I had stopped my bike at around the same point, weeks later, in order to receive a call on my cell phone and saw her approaching me. Had she mistaken me for a ‘potential customer’?

My heart skipped a beat.

The lady sort of gestured to me, as if to ask if I was interested.

I anxiously pulled my bike to the other side and zoomed off.

Minutes later, curiosity got the better of me and I had an urge to speak to her — to at least know her story. So I drove back. But it was too late by then. She had been gone for a while.

Having recently finished Louise Brown’s The Dancing Girls of Lahore and, earlier, Manto’s short stories about prostitutes, the curiosity was but ‘natural’.

The writer (or journalist) in me was suddenly too excited at the prospect of hitting upon a plot for a story or, perhaps, a theme for some poem.

I cursed myself for not having been prompt in returning to the spot where I had seen her. Though, I was still sure I’d get another chance to meet and talk to her.

I wasn’t wrong. The occasion came only a few days later. At past midnight, I parked my bike leisurely as I spotted her talking to somebody (a customer?) on one side of the road.

I saw her from a distance, apparently haggling over the amount. And when he refused to pay her that, she left him mid-deal(?) and started moving towards me.

“Five hundred rupees; at my place?” she asked me.

It probably meant that without the facility of the place, the amount would be far less.

I was shocked to know the price she had asked. I couldn’t stop thinking about how society must have forced her to come to this level where she perhaps had no other option left.

She got on behind me on the bike, giving me directions to her place. I was interested in talking to her and she was interested in her five hundred rupees. That’s why she refused my offer to go to any eatery or any other public place.

We both wanted to achieve our own targets. She even refused to tell me her name, not that it would have made any difference.

She guided me to a place she called “ghar” somewhere between Ichhra and Samanabad. Near a dark alley, hardly four feet wide, she asked me to pull off the bike. She asked me to follow her into a street, without making noise. We weren’t thieves, were we?

It appeared that nobody lived there, as it was silent like death. The gates were small and the street uneven. Perhaps, some daily wagers or labourers lived in the houses around.

The sound of a song from an Indian film came from a house. A few yards into the street, which had may small soundless single-storey houses with small doors, she whipped out a pair of keys and opened a door.

Inside, there was a small opening which led to a single room. The girl went in and opened another lock, before asking me to make it quick.

It was a dingy place with nothing else but a charpoy and no fan.

I told her that I only wanted to talk to her. She asked, “About what?” When I told her it would be about herself, she didn’t seem to understand what I meant. Perhaps, she was scared of losing her five hundred rupees.

She told me that she wanted her money under any circumstances and that I should not waste her time. She appeared to be in a hurry. It was obvious that she used that ‘venue’ only for business. I assured her that I would pay her double the amount but I wanted only to talk and that I was a journalist.

I decided to leave. I gave her a thousand rupee note, the most I could give her at that time, wondering what the price of dignity could be.

She was silent but I didn’t know if her silence was the outcome of surprise or satisfaction at having got ‘good’ money.

I came out of the place, kick-started the bike and drove back home, after what had been my first encounter with a prostitute.

For hours, I could not remove the smell that emanated from her when she was sitting next to me, and I wondered whether that smell had become a part of me.

 

 

 

 

 

 

TOWN TALK

* Summer Farmers Market, a Khalis Foods project, comes back to Lahore at Greens Hall on MM Alam Road, on June 2, Sunday (today), offering fresh and organic produce, hormone-free dairy products, traceable meats, free-range and ‘desi’ poultry, healthy grains, baked goods and fresh juices. There will also be Live cooking for the visitors, aside from activities for families.

* An evening with Nahid Akhtar, legendary playback singer of the 1970s and 80s, at Alhamra The Mall, on June 8. Time: 7pm.

* ‘Here and Now’, an exhibition of five contemporary artists — Mohammad Ali Talpur, Hasnat Mehmood, Mohammad Zeeshan, Adeela Suleman and Nausheen Saeed — continues at Lahore Art Gallery, 42, Lawrence Road, till June 22. Gallery hours are 11am to 7pm, except Sundays and public holidays.

* ‘Artists’ Talk “2D Performances” continues through July 2, at NHQ Gallery, Lahore College for Women University. Twenty-one visual artists from all over the country showcase their works.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

disaster
Third in a row
The recent collapse of a pedestrian bridge on Ring Road could have easily been avoided if there was a single authority to initiate and maintain such huge engineering projects

By Arshad Dogar

Hasty projects with little or no regard for engineering prerequisites and formalities have put the lives of scores of road users in danger as the pedestrian bridges, especially on the Ring Road, have been collapsing one by one due to small collisions with overloaded vehicles.

Poor surveillance and implementation of traffic rules by the Ring Road Police Force and City Traffic Police have further lessened the chance of survival in case of such disasters.

Two out of the three recent incidents of overhead bridges collapsing have occurred on Ring Road during the last one year, less than two years after it was constructed.

The entire government machinery is shocked. In any other country of the world, the project manager would be held responsible if such an incident had occurred but here, the issue has been put on the backburner as the officials resorted to blame game.

There is a lot of room for this ‘blame game,’ because a number of departments including the Communications & Works (C&W), Lahore Ring Road Authority, Traffic Engineering and Planning Agency (TEPA) and National Logistics Cell (NLC) are directly involved in constructing such bridges. This could have easily been avoided if there was a single authority to initiate and maintain such huge engineering projects.

On June 28, 2012, a truck (MNB-1591) was going to Niazi Shaheed Road and as it reached near Bholi Camp School the overhead-bridge collapsed on it. As a result, the truck driver Sajjad Amjad of Sargodha was crushed to death and his truck was completely destroyed.

A case was registered in the North Cantt police station against Khalid Rauf, the owner of Rauf Constructions, who was taken into police custody. The inquiry committee, constituted by the former Punjab chief minister Mian Shahbaz Sharif, put the entire blame of the incident on the driver.

On December 22, 2012, an over-head pedestrian bridge collapsed as a truck hit it near the Punjab University on Canal Road. The bridge had come down as a trailer hauling heavy machinery and exceeding the stated 16-foot height limit hit into it. The driver sustained injuries while other road users were luckily saved as the traffic at night was very little.

More recently, an under-construction pedestrian bridge fell down on the Ring Road near Defence, Phase IV, due to the criminal negligence of the construction company.

The bridge collapsed at around 10 in the morning of May 22 this year. No one was hurt, but the collapse led to a massive traffic jam. No legal action has been taken against anyone so far.

Sources told TNS that the Lahore Ring Road Authority (LRRA) engineers had asked the National Logistics Cell (NLC) to stop, short of its construction, by declaring it “dangerous” some eight months back as the beam section of the bridge had cracked while it was being shifted from Package-6 of the Ring Road Project to Package-17. However, the beam was not removed from the pillars that resulted into its collapse.

The Punjab government had ordered the installation of a steel bridge at Package-6, considering the conditions of the June 28, 2012 incident. However, the NLC officials were allowed to install the beam at a pedestrian bridge in Package-17. But during its inspection at the site in Defence, Phase-IV, the LRRA engineers detected the crack and asked the NLC engineers to pull the bridge down but to no avail.

Structural engineering experts have questioned the engineering authenticity of over 20 pedestrian bridges installed on the Ring Road and many others on the Canal Road besides scores of other bridges on major and small roads of the city. They suggest that these bridges should be reexamined in order to avoid future disasters. They also say that the authorities concerned should strengthen the structures, especially the girders, of these bridges for the safety of commuters.

A civil engineer told TNS that the authorities should go for steel bridges instead of concrete structures. He went on to say that the project managers have only put beams on T-shaped pillars and not adopted safety measures by screwing them up with bolts or welding.

He also said that the beams of the Metro Bus System Route (MBSR) should also be strengthened by giving proper protection to girders in order to avert any such disaster, as girders have been placed on the overhead bridges on mere T-shaped pillars.

A senior civil engineer says there is “no proper supervision during the construction of such bridges.”

He adds that the flaws in designs, which should be site-specific, also result in disasters of this kind. The NESPAK provided consultancy to the government for the construction of pedestrian bridges on Ring Road. The project manager should be questioned about the flaws which resulted in the current incident, maintains the official, while demanding action against those responsible.

Another senior officer of Punjab government says, “The government should also break the lobbies working just for the increase of the project costs by holding them responsible for criminal negligence in such incidents.”

He adds that the focus on “perfect engineering” would help to resolve such issues at a time when traffic engineering is almost absent from the city roads.

He warns that if the Punjab government and all departments concerned did not start self-assessment and accountability on the hasty projects, it could result in irreparable loss to the nation.

Moreover, there is no guidance for drivers ahead of underpasses and overhead bridges which otherwise can play an important role in avoiding crashes.

SP Ring Road Police Force Salman Ali Khan claims that gantries have been installed ahead of the bridges that mention the maximum height of the passing vehicles and action is taken against any violators by issuing challans to them.

However, the picture on ground is different as no gantry is installed ahead of the bridges and the underpasses in the provincial metropolis, especially on the Ring Road. A few signboards exist but no police is there to man them.

Chief Traffic Officer, Capt (r) Suhail Chaudhry admits the fact that there are no gantries ahead of overhead bridges and underpasses to guide the drivers. He also says that the engineers should design projects keeping in view all necessities of citizens.

He is of the view that it was financially difficult for the traffic police to install signboards ahead of all bridges.

However, Capt (r) Suhail Chaudhry suggests, if the government installs gantries at only four entry places of the city i.e. Shahdara, Ravi Bridge, Thokar Niaz Baig and on Kasur Road, the traffic as well as the district police would be able to properly man the places and no such incident would happen in the future.

arshad.dogar182@gmail.com

 

   

 

 

 

 

 

By Mr & Mrs Kim
Udon House, a one-stop, quick-meal place, opens the Lahoris to Korean food
By Alefia T. Hussain

For the Lahori meat-loving gastrocrat, this little eatery in Gulberg is too basic — oh well! It’s just an extension of the kitchen, not sconced and glossed. It’s not where she or he would smack the lips and blink a lot to hold the taste. It’s everything the Lahori food scene is not.

Udon House, which lurks just off one of those busy Gulberg streets and is camouflaged by the upscale Xinhua Mall and Noodle House, is all details. It’s good. Really good, in concept, because it is managed by fewer hands and caters to only a few, about 10 to 12 at a time.

Udon House is also the answer to the mystery that has bothered me for long: when will Lahore open up to Korean food? Most of the oriental cuisine is presented here which surely has a hungry, restaurant-sustaining population. Korean food, though, had been conspicuous by its absence. This was a pity because, as Udon House has proved, it is can be enticing. The only problem was where to find it in Lahore.

Korean food has caught on the world over as a spiced-up version of Japanese food. Unlike in Japanese food where soya sauce features prominently, the Korean variety tastes of garlic and chilli, and no meal is complete without a kick of kimchee, the chilli-hot pickle of fermented cabbage.

The restaurant that opened in March this year is run by D.H. Kim and E.R. Chang, a South Korean couple who like to be simply known as Mr & Mrs Kim.

They are not new to the city. Both moved to Pakistan more than 20 years ago, as employees of textile companies. Mr Kim worked for a US-based textile company in Karachi but later moved to Lahore and set up his own textile unit. And, as for Mrs Kim, “I worked in Lahore for a textile company too, a joint venture of Pakistan and Korea,” she says, when as a side business she decided to open a small accessories’ shop at Centre Point.

“The shop flourished. I decided to stay on,” she smiles and adds, “and at which point I met Mr Kim.”

Both decided to marry and make this part of the world their little home.

What took them 20 long years to offer Korean food to Lahore? “Oh, my husband was busy with his business and I was busy raising my two children. Now our kids are older and independent and we have more time to do food,” Mrs Kim talks in English, choosing every word carefully.

For Lahore, this is no ordinary marriage. It has turned out to be a meeting of authentic Korean food cooking with a little understanding of non-Korean customers.

The menu is limited to 16 items, including cold drinks and mineral water, with a couple of extra ones mentioned on the blackboard. “We add items gradually. One or two every few weeks,” says Mrs Kim standing behind the counter that separates the little kitchen from the sitting area. Every now and then she turns to the wok, dribbles soya over the meat and vegetables, sautés… and leaves the rest to her helper.

“Although I have trained a cook, I prefer to add soya sauce and spices myself. Also, all the purchasing is done by us from the best meat shop and supermarket in town to ensure freshness and quality of food.”

Time to select some authentic Korean specials. When at a loss with what to order, and how much, Mr Kim is there to help you. He recommends Bulgogi, a wonderful plate full of tender strips of grilled beef and boiled rice, and Bibimbab, served in a bowl of warm white rice and sautéed vegetables and meat, topped with fried egg, all mixed together with more than a dash of chilli sauce.

Spicy chicken and a variety of noodles are also there to tweak your appetite but must wait for another time.

After this delightful meal, you won’t need a dessert which is fine since there aren’t any on the offer.

Udon House is a one-stop, quick-meal place, best for bankers and corporate professionals during their one-hour lunch breaks. “The first two months were very busy. Now I have developed a regular clientele with which I’m very pleased,” says Mrs Kim.

   

 

 

 

Project clean-up

caption

The area around Masjid Wazir Khan is being cleared of all sorts of encroachments by the Walled City Lahore Authority.

 

 

 

 

 

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