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instep profile
Introducing Anisa Khan The tunic queen of Labels
The in-house designer at the multi-label boutique Labels, Anisa Khan has slowly but surely
carved a clientele and her target are 'working women'. Instep chats with this young designer who considers Stella McCartney her inspiration and who believes that retail needs to be rethought and reinvented in Pakistan.

By Ayecha Ahmed

 

Fresh graduates, though highly ambitious are careful and a little nervous of the real world. They want to make it big and know that the drill is inevitable thus they start enjoying it. With there dreams being the sole reason to keep them going these determined youngsters meet the challenges head on.
Anisa Khan, the designer behind Labels, is one such girl who considers herself lucky to get a platform early in life to make use of the talent in her and utilizes it completely. She is very well known amongst working women as she came as the savior with her innovative tunic tops. Meeting her for the first time at the relaunch at Labels she seemed a little uneasy with the attention she was getting yet enjoying it secretly, smiling and greeting people all the way.


One couldn't let go of a chance to get to find out about this latest addition to the fashion world and her aspirations. Days later, Anisa agreed to meet me at her work place, but a little reluctantly, as she thought she wasn't looking that great.

 
Moments later when one of the sales girls at Labels escorted me to the fourth floor of the building (I didn't know before that there was more to the place than just the display area) which is where all paper work is done; I was greeted by Anisa dressed immaculately. Not the least bit shabby. With kajal in her huge round eyes and bangs pinned up to give a neat look to her face and wearing ochre kameez on beige pants she looked like the kind of woman she designs for; Casual yet elegant. Gelling in well with her surrounding she seemed pretty much at ease.
 
The entrance of her work area has some great paintings, which catch the eye at once only to be distracted by the sunlight coming through the sunroof in the sitting area. The place serves as the waiting area to the offices. Stacked magazines around with a wide variety from fashion to economy suggest the people working under Labels give equal importance to the world around them.

Lying close to the couch, where we sat, was Vogue and that too the Indian edition. One couldn't help but ask Anisa Khan, the fresh designer, what she thought about it. "It's an effort, though it lacks what the English or American Vogue has," Anisa comments flatly. Next the eager fashion school graduate enthusiastically explained how huge Vogue really is, "The first few pages are enough to tell you what the trends around the world are, you don't necessary have to go through the whole magazine. The important things are summarized in the beginning." So why would we living just a border across not consider the Indian edition of Vogue important?
 

"Indians are nothing like us, they are a loud nation and that translates into their designing. Even the loudest amongst us would seem mellow compared to them and that's huge enough a difference. Our design inspirations cannot come from India, they don't understand what intricacy is. Besides Bollywood rules almost everything in that country and there fashion also comes under it. Yes, the kind of dresses we wear are quite similar but, call me biased but we have more style."

 
Anisa agrees that a lot of people living here admire the look of Bollywood actresses and want to copy without realising that that particular outfit was for a movie and will look different actually. The young designer is head strong about her believes and one gets the idea how she landed with Labels, but Anisa wants to relive the experience and one doesn't stop her.

"I was interning at Geo and came to Labels for a report. I got to speak with Mr. Zahir Rahimtoola, the mastermind behind Labels and he asked me to stop by once my degree at the fashion school is finished. After graduating I came here and he told me everything about Labels and I couldn't help but be part of it. All of this happened with in a week of my graduation," smiles Anisa describes herself a bit of a workaholic, "If my work finishes before time I feel useless, I try to do something else or go to the tailors downstairs and explain them things, going through a lot of drill at college has made me want to work no less than a machine and I like it," admits the latest newcomer in the fashion industry.
 

So was the journey easy? "People to this day think designers are darzis and I feel that might take a lot more time to change. I didn't face a lot of difficulties from my family. Initially they were a little unwilling, but after they saw how passionate I was about it, they were very supportive and that's been of a lot of help," sums up Anisa who made it to PSFD (Pakistan School of Fashion Design) but transferred to AIFD (Asian Institute of Fashion Design) because of personal reasons.

To her the two schools don't have much difference. She feels if PSFD has foreign qualified staff AIFD too has very dedicated teachers, who help you want to become the best. Although she has high regards for her instructors, she feels she isn't moved by any designer in the fashion industry. "Most of them have been very supportive, especially Maheen Khan, who is hard to please and very good at her job. Initially I was apprehensive about meeting the fashion gurus of the country, but all of them have been great."
So who is it that truly inspires this talented new designer of Labels?

"My inspirations come from Stella McCartney, it was her fashion show that I saw and decided that I have to be someone like that," says Anisa. "Other than her Valentino and Chloe are my favourites. As a businessman, it has to Ralph Lauren, the man expanded his empire to no limits. From making just a polo shirt he now has everything under the sun. That is inspiring and I hope to expand to that level some day. Right now is too early," she adds quickly. Here's a fashion designer who is aware of where she wants to be and what precisely is required to get there. Her start as the designer for Labels is a step in the right direction and she knows where to take not just herself from there but the label she is working under.
The design philosophy of Labels is very similar to what Anisa Khan wants to design, that is urban, trendy pret for the working woman. To say it is a match made in heaven won't be wrong. She wants to expand to menswear too eventually without giving up on quality. "We started off making tunics when no one in the country was doing it and they sold like hot cakes," Anisa informs as she gets all excited, thinking about the way she felt when her stuff got sold. "It feels great, one feels appreciated. It's been that way ever since then and I enjoy it."

Anisa is aware of the strength of bridal wear and its need but doesn't want to get into it. She doesn't want to be another one to get lost in the crowd. She seems to be the kind of person who has little interest in bridals or the heavily embellished evening wear.

"Ultimately I have myself in mind when I design and if there is something that I wouldn't like to wear myself I wouldn't make that," explains Anisa. She is a part of a new generation of designers who are rethinking the bridal formula for fashion success and a platform like Labels has enabled her to do that.
Zahir Rahimtoola, thinks the rough patch that Labels saw few years back can be easily erased from people's memory. "We wanted somebody who didn't believe in bridal concepts. If you look at all the fashion design graduates you will notice that all of them are busy trying to be the HSYs and Sana Safinazs. Anisa happens to be somebody who doesn't wants to play safe, she thinks out of the box. She is part of the team as if she always belonged here and is rightfully the queen of tunics," laughs the happy entrepreneur, who hired the fresh graduate on a gut feeling and hasn't been disappointed.

Anisa, though has no intentions of branching out as a fashion instructor, but feels if she ever teaches it would be the underprivileged kid. Not just that, this fresh designer is influenced by the political conditions in the country. Doing her bit as a fashion designer Anisa is hopeful of being part of the bright future of fashion that this country holds.

Check out Anisa Khan's deigns for Labels on style section