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Hotsteppers of the week
Sana Hashwani and Safinaz Muneer

 
Come summer and the word 'voile' brings on a deep sigh and a big smile for women in Pakistan, for this is what a massive 51 per cent covets and hoards en masse. That's a huge number and it justifies the droves of women who pile into exhibition halls to stock up for the year. But while lawn prints come a dime a dozen, there are some names that hold much more credibility than others and Sana Safinaz would top that list. This is their eleventh year in the voile business; they have worked with Al-Karam, Firdous and finally Lakhany Textile Mills and with every collection they have helped diversify the concept of lawn in Pakistan. In fact Sana Safinaz have become so successful as lawn designers that last year their prints sold out during the exhibition and did not even make it to the market at large.

"We advised them (the mill owners) not to flood the market," Safinaz tells Instep. "It's good to be a little exclusive and keep women yearning because when every woman ends up wearing the same print (which is usually what happens with most brands) then the print loses its value."

Sana and Safinaz have had incredible vision in conceptualizing the progress of voile in Pakistan and for that they are hotsteppers of the week. Safinaz speaks to Instep about the lawn phenomenon and how it can be furthered…

Instep: As successful fashion designers, your forte has always been bridal, trousseau and formal women's wear so how do you think your foray into fabrics has benefitted your business? What are the basic advantages of designing voile for the masses?

Safinaz: Oh the benefits are tremendous. For one, designing lawn provides the general public with the feel of designer wear. Whenever a designer comes in, there is more thought process to the prints. They become more artistic and in a way that changes the way all those women who wear the shalwar kameez look. That translates tremendously well because your name then is known by the masses as well. From a business point of view, designing prints is lucrative to us because we have been doing it for so long, otherwise it really doesn't have many monetary benefits. We don't do lawn as a money making ploy.

 
Instep: How would you say this year's prints are different from the previous?

Safinaz: Basically we broke the market years ago when mills were only putting out big prints in loud colours and combinations. We brought in the softer pastels after which the trend caught up and everyone started doing that. This year we have reverted back to strong, monochrome tones. It's what is happening all over the world. Then we were also the first to start embroidered fabric, which everyone is doing now. We introduced the lace number last year and will be repeating it this year as well. But year after year we have been playing with the concept of designer fabric, adding new concepts to it. Lace, I feel, is a well received idea because it makes an ordinary outfit a bit more formal. When it comes with the print, women are saved from the hassle of matching etc and they pick up fabric which is ready to be stylized.

Instep: Don't you think that also restricts their individual creativity in getting the fabric stitched according to their taste?
Safinaz: I think women just love that. They love the extra touches of lace and embroidery. They look forward to designer expertise. It doesn't constrict their individuality at all because they don't exactly want to be hugely original. That is exactly why the prints on the billboards or in the catalogues are the first to sell out. We go to the extent of experimenting with our lawn shoots so that women can borrow ideas on how to put their outfits together. When they buy designer fabric, women are looking for designer vision.

Instep: You are gradually bringing women closer to designer clothing by defining the way the outfit should and will look. Do you see textile mills getting into ready to wear voile clothing in the near future?
Safinaz: Only Gul Ahmad has managed to take fabric that one step further into ready to wear, that too because they have a massive infrastructure and they have their own retail outlets. Otherwise, it's not a feasible idea. It is quite complicated. Plus the darzi culture is huge in Pakistan and that's not going away any time soon. 51 per cent of Pakistan's women wear the shalwar kameez and they love going to the tailor. There's plenty prêt, bridal and diffusion happening already; the shalwar kameez is tailor galore.

Instep: Nevertheless, your ready to wear collection has been much anticipated ever since you showed at the Ensemble Avenue last year. When will you begin stocking?
Safinaz: We're aiming for March 20, after which our ready to wear will be available at six outlets: our studio in Karachi, Ensemble Karachi, our studio in Lahore, Melange in Islamabad, Soiree and Designer's Lounge in Dubai.

– Safinaz was talking to Aamna Haider Isani
– The latest Sana Safinaz voile collection can be seen on Style Section