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eatingout
Eating with the fishes
The English franchise Mr. Cod opens in Lahore amid a flurry of publicity

By Jazib Zahir

 

Mr. Cod receives full marks for its marketing campaign; the city was abuzz about its much touted opening well in advance. Banners, the media and word of mouth all played their parts in ensuring that the food connoisseurs of Lahore knew exactly where and when to venture to sample this new culinary offering.

 
 
Restaurants that focus on seafood are few and far between in Pakistan, with fish not being the staple of living here that it is in some other countries like Japan. But Pakistanis are well acquainted with the concept of bundling fish and chips and the esteemed place of this snack on the streets of Britain. There was a popular misconception that Mr. Cod would re-create that kiosk experience here, serving fried fish wrapped in yesterday's newspaper. But the restaurant is really a fast food joint in its truest sense with a similar look and feel to McDonalds and Kentucky Friend Chicken, complete with trays and value meals.
 
 
I journeyed to the branch of Mr. Cod nestled in that mecca of restaurants known as M.M. Alam Road. After navigating through the tricky parking lot, I literally found myself on the high seas. The restaurant takes its aquatic theme seriously with relevant props adorning the outside walls. But you really take the plunge when you walk through the doors and are enveloped by a sea of blue interiors. Tassels of blue dangle from the ceiling and the helm of a ship hangs overhead. The windows mimic ship portals with the signature fish emblem of the restaurant etched into each one. The waiters don black sailor outfits and a narrow, convoluted staircase sweeps you into a lounge meant to simulate the deck.

This décor renders a refreshing sensation, perfect to escape a torrid summer afternoon. In fact the only aspect of the restaurant that does not contribute to the sense of serenity is the choice of music. It tends to be too loud and better suited to a dance floor rather than a serene fishing experience. I feel softer melodies would have fit the ambience here better.

But we must now cover the most critical aspect of the dining experience: the food. Cod fish occupies centre stage on the menu and can be selected as part of a meal complete with tartar sauce, chips and a drink. The alternative to this standard offering is the masala variation, no doubt conceived with the intent of satisfying the local palate. Other options include fish or chicken sandwiches as well as a number of side dishes like sausages and nuggets.

In its present form, the menu is somewhat more limited than I would have expected. Cod lovers seem to find it satisfactory but those who have tasted the equivalent in Britain point out that the local incarnation is somewhat soggier than the original. The masala variation has proven quite popular among visitors, many anointing it the feature attraction of the restaurant. Visitors also rave about the sausage side dish. The major non-fish item, the chicken sandwich, however, tastes suspiciously like fish and does not really match up well with its counterparts at rival restaurants. What disappoints most is the complete lack of a dessert option which would have added an extra dimension to the offerings.

The crowd that frequents the restaurant seems to tilt towards families looking to spend some quality time over a meal. The restaurant successfully baits younger children with its large play area and attractive décor. It is a sound choice for those looking to forego the usual suspects and try out a new fast food option. But whether it hooks you for a long-term commitment depends heavily on your love for fish since few of the other offerings are particularly unique. Those who take a fancy to the fish will be reeled in for repeated visits while those who don't may continue to prefer the alternatives. If Mr. Cod really plans to go head to head with KFC and McDonalds for market share, it will need to expand its portfolio of quality offerings and maybe consider foregoing its singular emphasis on the life aquatic to cater to the taste buds of a wider audience.

--Photos by Rahat Dar