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instep In the
picture starbytes The music
critic as privileged consumer Musical
Notes Vibes foreign Style
watch Flash
Deconstructing Mehdi's Vanity Fair Being a PSFD graduate, Mehdi comes with an understanding of the craft of fashion but he is still struggling with finding an aesthetic to call his own. By Maheen Sabeeh Last week Mehdi held his first fashion show in Karachi. A
PSFD graduate from Lahore, this was an The beginning of the show had impact as a masqueraded figure (Mehreen Syed) walked in wearing a delicately embellished silver and bronze blouse paired with a fully blown organza skirt. The punch came with the huge Versace inspired mask that hid the model's face thus adding an air of mystery to the show. Unfortunately this mystery was never really solved. Mehdi went through a black segment, into beige, over candy floss pastels and landed pat on the bridals that he is popular for in Lahore.
After black, it was beige that took center stage. In this segment, few outfits really shone but one outfit that was simply gorgeous was a beige long skirt topped with dull golden top and a big collar. A chiffon skirt topped with a beige sleeveless top with minimal works on neckline and bottom worn by Iman was another good one. The fit and fall of both the garments was perfect. More hope came along when Iraj sashayed onto the ramp in a chiffon beige long jacket and dull pink pants. The jacket had long running sleeves and was worked very subtly with small beads and ornamentation. And then came the colours. Mehdi played with shades of
bright hues such as pinks, blues, and moved Unfortunately, wearable and gorgeous outfits were few and far between. The last segment of the collection was dominated by bridal wear that were overworked and mismatched in terms of colour combinations. For instance, why would anyone want to wear a light shade of teal with shocking pink? Moreover, the bridal joras had nothing new to offer. These outfits can be found all over Pakistan and that too at a much cheaper price. A few saris in the same segment were worth a second glance. Almost all of them had a perfect fitted blouse. When it came to pants, Mehdi was on the ball. The fitting and fall was again perfect. But sadly, these were the only highlights of an otherwise garish collection.
Mehdi played it safe with Vanity Fair. His use of embellishment shows that he is looking to cater to the bridal wear maket and therein lies Mehdi's problem. He has the professional credentials and the clout via brother Shahzad Raza, but Vanity Fair showed an obvious reluctance to defy the conventions of what people wear. Mehdi has not put his own thought into his collection. He's taken a bit of everything that sells and made a bunch of outfits accordingly. The collection was such a mixed bag that one fashion critic at the show rechristened it the Cassata Collection. If anything, the only consolation came with the fact that
Mehdi had some of his basics right. This man showed that he knows how to cut,
the importance of a perfectly fitted sari blouse and with those Now that Pakistan Fashion Week is the latest buzz in the fashion world, the focus of this collection should have been towards ready-to-wear. Minimal embellishment, experimentation and twisting tradition in a funky way would've made Vanity Fair a collection to remember. One has seen numerous PSFD designers do so; Karma and Nomi Ansari being two great examples. Mehdi is from the breed of new designers coming into the fashion field. It is imperative that he realize that kaam isn't the way to take fashion forward. Vanity Fair featured all the top models of Pakistan. Vinny, Iraj, Iman, Tanya Shafi - being the brother of Shehzad Raza definitely has its perks. Unfortunately for Mehdi, these perks come with a catch. Outsiders see Mehdi's success as a sign of his brother's name. This is where Mehdi has to draw a line. His brother should not define his identity as a designer. The make up done by Shehzad - the Gucci look, dark eyes, pale lips always works. The hair however was a blast from the past we would rather forget. Our mothers had bouffants and used fake hair pieces but at the show they were enough to make women in the audience resolve that the look would never come back. The hair was archaic and so was the music, which ranged from Schiller to Eastern classical.
Yes, Ather-Shehzad are one of the biggest fashion
photographers in the country but the fact is that with the exception of Nomi
Ansari, no other designer from Karachi showed up. The first major show after
the Lux Style Awards, one could see once again the divide in the industry. It
was a far cry from the Saadia Mirza show earlier this year, when Karachi
designers had turned out in full force. Mehdi may find that working only with
his brother may close as many avenues for him as it Everything else about this show was worth a notice. Held at Marriott Hotel, as an event, the setting for Mehdi's debut in Karachi was almost perfect. Ushers guided people to their tables. Instead of a buffet that is common at fashion shows, this show boasted of an elegant sit down dinner. The ramp was straight, making it easier for people to get a good look at the clothes. The introduction by Sofia Shahid - Vice President of Media and Communications at Marriott Hotel left much to be desired. The length of her self congratulatory speech about Marriott was uncalled for, especially when she boasted that Marriott is reviving qawwali in Pakistan. Hotels can stake a claim over their events, but they really shouldn't go so far to claim the propagation of our culture. Just like designers shouldn't rely on their brothers to take them forward. If Mehdi wants to be a designer in the truest sense of the word, he needs to establish his own identity. And to do so it is imperative that he walks with others by his side than brother dearest.
instep Dedicated to the colour red – the colour of love and revolution, Botal Gali is neither lovely nor revolutionary By Rahma Muhammad An advertising man, Shahzad
Nawaz knows how to sell his products in style. The attention to detail in
packaging the invitation to Botal Gali was faultlessly meticulous. The invite
came in a bottle, with a sheet that provided the run through of the plot and
the main characters. Shahzad is also aware of the punctuality averse nature
of the Pakistani audience. Knowing people will not come on time, the invite The night's proceedings actually began at 9:15, when Aijazz Aslam, who plays one of the main characters in Botal Gali, came on stage to introduce the film. He thankfully, kept his part short and asked senior scriptwriter Dr Anwer Sajjad, who analysed Botal Gali's script to give the keynote address. The movie was yet to begin, as after the address the co producers and sponsors were called on stage to be given mementos. Obviously, all of them had a few words to say which were mostly praises for Shahzad Nawaz and his work. After endless thankyous, the audience began its journey through Botal Gali at long last. The film began with a sharp monologue by Anjum Shahzad, who is the conscience of the character Babu, played very well by Akhter Qayyum. So far so good, the opening credits were gripping, with excellent graphics and good Urdu prose. That impression, unfortunately didn't last long. Set in Karachi, Botal Gali's plot gravitates around a bootlegger, Shahid, played by Shahzad Nawaz (Shahzad actually joked that since he invested the most, he got the biggest character) and the people he has to work with in his trade. From corrupt policemen who actually provide him with imported booze when his supply falls short, to rich clients and a model-actress girlfriend, Shahid is the strongest link in the complicated web of a 34 member cast. He buys an unknown brand of Vodka, Dante's with the help of his prodigy Zahid (Aijazz Aslam) from an excise sub inspector Malik (Shehzad Ali Khan) who had actually confiscated it in a raid. The bootlegging duo start selling this newest entrant into the illegal market left, right and centre. Among their clients is
Mickey (Sohail Hashmi) an ad agency owner with a bored stay at home trophy
wife who are having a party to celebrate their wedding anniversary. Mickey
invites his corporate Like Daira, Shahzad Nawaz's debut, Botal Gali relies on shock value, but falls flat. The characters might sound interesting but they are not well etched out. As a result, they are reduced to little more than cliches. The rich housewife obsessed with the way she looks while her husband is having an affair. A real estate developer who likes the 'show' in showbiz and invests in TV plays to have access to actresses and models. The worst was probably the American photojournalist, Amy (Heather Mroczkowski) in great mental pain, questioning the hypocrisy of Pakistani society in general and the lifestyle of Karachi's elite and nouveau rich in particular. Desperate in search for that vague story, Amy finds herself being advised on Pakistani society by Sheikh Amer Hasan, who is basically playing himself, a man who lives in an apartment that he insists on calling a villa. One day she finally does come across a man with the perfect story, Babu. Babu is a disturbed former merchant in the city's botal gali who scavenges empty alcohol bottles, something he has been doing for eight years. He considers himself a saviour of these bottles, his only companions. Babu perplexes Amy when he refuses to be "an artifact for goras". When she offers him a hundred rupee note, Babu responds, "I am a citizen of this country, not a ruler that I need your charity," and tears the note. The script is very strong and engaging at some points but mostly it fails to hold. There are some very witty jokes that were received with much applause. The highlight of the script was probably the scenes where three old friends Bazmi, Naushad and Sikandar, played extremely well by seasoned actors, Khalid Ahmed, Raju Jamil and Shehryar Zaidi respectively, discuss the business of drinking. Naushad is completely opposed to drinking and argues incessantly with his well-read friends. During the course of a brief drinking session, dinner and the ride back home the trio discuss it all - Bhutto's politics, the political imprisonment of Faiz and Ghalib's unorthodox belief. The story has exceptional potential but the excess of stereotypical characters and confused editing, make the two hour and 45 minute long movie an ordeal. Botal Gali fails to move even though it has all the essential ingredients to make it a hit. There is an excellent idea - the bootlegging business in a city where alcohol is banned but still flows excessively, a great sound track and an interesting script that has some very bright moments. Unfortunately, even with the best of resources at his disposal, Shahzad fails to produce a film strong enough to make a mark in Pakistani parallel cinema let alone a cinematic gem. The editing is especially poor, its the cut and jump style of filmmaking. The many storylines that run through the film needed clear and intelligent editing, which is not what they got. Credit is due for ideas and the high points of the script. Botal Gali must also be commended for portraying through a mass medium an interesting segment of Pakistani society, where the newly rich are trying to come to terms with the lifestyle of the already rich and famous. Having achieved cult status even before its release (thanks to smart marketing) one went with high expectations, even though Shahzad Nawaz's last (and only) directorial venture, Daira, left a lot to be desired. But yet again Shahzad fails to entertain, succeeding only as an excellent marketeer. In the picture Yun Hota To Kya Hota***1/2 *ing Paresh Rawal, Ratna Pathak Shah, Konkona Sen Sharma, Jimmy Shergill, Ayesha Takia, Irrfan Khan Directed by Naseeruddin Shah The fact that Yun Hota To Kya Hota is Naseeruddin Shah's
directorial debut makes this film a must see without even going into the
reasons why. And it doesn't disappoint. As different from the currently The Wife: The newlywed Tillotima (Konkona Sen) and Hemant
(Jimmy Shergill), have to part as Hemant must return to his work assignment
in the US. He leaves his bride behind to tend to his overbearing family,
applying for her The Illegal Immigrant: In another situation is Rajubhai
Patel (Paresh Rawal), a Gujrati businessman who assists in transporting men
and women over to America. He recruits all applicants in his faux dance
troupe and takes them in groups. A character bordering on greedy comic,
Rajubhai softens up when The student: Rahul, Khushboo and their group of friends
are stereotypical reps of an MTV generation, except for the eccentric
jokester (Imaad Shah, Naseeruddin's son) who is thoroughly patriotic. Holding
a scholarship to study in America, Rahul sets off after his ailing father
passes away and he is left The Fugitive: Running away from the betrayal he has suffered at the hands of his secret affair with the older Namrata (Suhasini Mulay), stockbroker Salim (Irrfan Khan) hastens off to New York before schedule when he witnesses the murder of a high profile cop and fears being caught as a suspect too. Haunted by images of seeing Namrata, an exotic dancer, with another man, he stands at an office window of the World Trade Centre as the aircraft horrifically swerves towards him. The characters are people most of us know, or have
crossed at some point in life. As a storyteller, Naseeruddin Shah has proven
himself as – Aamna Haider Isani *YUCK **WHATEVER ***GOOD ****SUPER *****AWESOME starbytes Munna Bhai on trial Sanjay Dutt is riding the wave of popularity these days -
his latest release Lage Raho Munna Bhai is a mammoth hit getting raving
reviews, described by the box office as a super hit. And yet the 'super' hero
has decided to put his career on hold until he is cleared of the case that
has run for over thirteen years, making it the longest-running criminal trial
in India. Dutt is charged with possession of arms under the Terrorist and
Anti-Disruptive Activities (Prevention) Act and the Arms Act. He is also Karan Johar to judge beauties with brains From film maker to talk show host and now judging the
56th Miss World contest in Poland on the 30th
Kareena wants to marry Shahid! Kareena Kapoor in a recent interview finally declared
that she only wants to marry Shahid Kapur but Brad Pitt takes up the gay cause Brad Pitt is in the news again but this time it's
thankfully not for the Angelina affair but for saying Anna Nicole's son dies Anna Nicole Smith's 20 year old son, Daniel, died three
days after she gave birth to her daughter in
The
music critic as privileged consumer Fasi Zaka I remember for ages I
thought film and music critics had a God given right of determining what's
kosher for consumption or purchase. Partly, I just assumed they were
qualified for the job; so I just blindly After all, the newspapers gave the music critics a job, they would know right? Well the truth is most people who write about music will know much less than someone who attended one semester at a music school (me included). Mostly music critics are just fans who never grew out of their obsession for music and endlessly discussing it. Add to this a passion for writing and a modest gift for it; you get a bona fide music critic. And that's the real truth about being a music columnist or critic, he or she is just a consumer who has been given a voice through a medium, like this newspaper for example. This understanding of the critic as privileged consumer dents the notion that music critics are infallible arbiters of artistic merit. But still, in my own experience from interacting with viewers of OTF, you will get people asking you what kind of music is 'good' and what is 'bad'. What they are really asking is, what's the right opinion to have? Now frankly, that's sad. No one should tell you what opinion to hold, you have to come to your own conclusions. Generally I think it's safe to say we collectively allow others to make our decisions for us. The mullah, your parents, your teachers: everyone seems to think for you, except you. Behaviour like this is common in religious and patriarchal societies. Add to these common obstacles of thought the music critic to the list if you blindly follow their advice. But, a note of caution. This doesn't mean what the critic has to say is pedestrian either. In Pakistan we have music critics who weave together fabrics of analysis, like sociology and history. In some ways the articles actually become the first drafts of cultural anthropology. That's nothing less than fantastic. And, frankly articles about music or entertainment are entertainment. You read them to enjoy them, and in most cases you read to get a trusted opinion on buying something. So does this skinny on the art of music criticism actually forebode genocide on the value of such work? Not at all. This answers something most musicians get absolutely wrong when they try to discredit the work of those who comment on their work. The musicians retort to the work of critics is always about how little the critic knows, and most usually ask if they are qualified at all on writing on music. But that's precisely the value of the music critic. As an outsider the music critic is not lost to the myopia of musicians who become more and more inward as they reach greater heights. Stevie Wonder has spent years learning increasingly complex time signatures of jazz, and so much so he isn't producing music because nothing is good enough for him anymore. And to tell you the truth, the only people who will notice the difference of his musical mastery will be other musicians. That's why Pakistani musicians get so irked when the critics pan their work, especially if they are virtuosos on their instruments. The musician will only be satisfied if the reviewer is John Petrucchi, Vai or another prodigy. But even if that were the case I am sure if you looked at the playlists these guys have on their mp3 players it would be music most of us don't like. They would all marvel at something really difficult to play but not necessarily something that people would want to hear. There is no real musician's critic in Pakistan. But none have actually claimed to be so (I hope). Most are consumers who write about their passion, and some do so with an extraordinary precision and gift. Whenever a 'music players' magazine comes out, as opposed to the 'music' magazines we already have, that's when we will find that the musician's gripe about getting people qualified for the job of writing about music will be valid.
Sain Zahoor beats out others at BBC World Music Awards '06 This year at the BBC World Music Awards 2006, Sain Zahoor
From Pakistan won an award in the category of Best Music - Asia Pacific. For
the uninformed, Sain Zahoor hails from the breed of street musicians. Since
his first debut performance at APMC (All Pakistan Music Conference) in 1989,
Sain Jawad Ahmad goes to Bollywood Following the footsteps of fellow musicians (Ali Azmat,
Atif Aslam, Strings, RFAK), Jawad Ahmad has Atif redoes 'Dosti' – but why? Atif Aslam has definitely been working on his live
performances and he is a crackler at them. With the uncanny ability to drive
the audience crazy without channeling Ali Azmat is something most new Salman Ahmed gets an invitation from Bill Clinton
"I used to think anyone doing anything weird was weird. Now I know that it is the people that call others weird that are weird." – Paul McCartney Pakistani
1.
One Light Year at Snail Speed – Sajid and Zeeshan 2. Sun Re – Abbas Ali Khan 3. Chal Rein Dey – Sajjad Ali 4. Be The One – Omer Inayat 5. Jilawatan – Call Hindustani 1. Bas Ek Pal 2.
Kabhi Alvida Naa Kehna 3. Don 4. Omkara 5. Jaaneman Vilayti 1. Under The Iron Sea – Keane 2. Open The Door – Evanescence 3.
Revolution – Audioslave 4. Stadium Arcadium – Red Hot Chilli Peppers 5. Loose – Nelly Furtado Courtesy:
Laraib Music, Clifton Shopping Centre, Boating
Basin, Karachi. Piggybacking on the Brand India bandwagon Both Indian fashion and big business are waking up to the avenues the fashion week has opened for them and realise that even though they have come a long way, they still have miles to go. What is this rubbish?" Story has it that a Kazakh
buyer reacted thus recently after he was shown three creations of a 'budding'
Indian designer at Browns, London's famous design store. An exaggerated
reaction, you'd say if you belong to India's burgeoning fashion fraternity.
But the fact is that though Mumbai and Delhi have been on the global fashion
map for decades, there is no brand Between September this year and March 2007, 10 Indian designers, including Sabyasachi Mukherjee, Manish Malhotra, Surily Goel and Savio Jon, will take their collections to New York, London, LA and so forth, just as the country's largest fashion week, the Wills India Fashion Week (WIFW), begins in capital Delhi on August 30. "Showcasing Indian designers abroad is an important first step in helping define an Indian design aesthetic for global buyers and media. An exposure to such international events will help increase awareness about these designers abroad, and also help them get additional funding and business support at home," says Ravi Krishnan, MD, IMG/TWI-South Asia and senior V-P, IMG, which hosts the Lakme Fashion Week. Fashion weeks also translate into brisk business, claims Anil Chopra, V-P, Lakme Lever. "Big store owners, both Indian and foreign, place bulk orders with designers. Typically, at a week, 30 to 40 designers show their collections and the opportunity is huge," says Chopra. But challenges remain. Sangita Kathiwada, a buyer and owner of Mumbai's high-end store Melange, is distressed by the way Indian designers conduct themselves. "They lack discipline and are often not prompt on deliveries. They treat it as a cottage industry. But fashion is not about occasional dressing. You need sizes 8-16 to operate at the international level. It cannot be about one-to-one retailing to society women." Fashion consultant Meher Castelino agrees: "Indian designers don't have a planned programme of action. Exposure helps but that is not enough." Kathiwada says the excitement surrounding Indian fashion is limited to those who work for couture houses abroad. "You don't hear about them but they are the ones bringing in the bucks." If you skip the design aspect - it's still at a nascent stage - India continues to maintain its reputation as a hub for manufacture. Says Krishnan, "India is a very important production hub. Many international designers and retailers have supply lines to the region." This, however, also poses a huge challenge to Indian designers. "They need to be able to meet and supply major world retailers to grow their businesses or these retailers will simply develop their own lines, or buy designer lines, who are using the production prowess of the Indian market," adds Krishnan. Both Kathiwada and Castelino insist that Indian designers must shed their confusion - "and that two-inch label tag at the end of each garment" - about the market they want to cater to. "There's a very big market in India but Indian designers are just not tapping it,'' says Kathiwada. Agrees Krishnan, "The key is in developing the domestic market for your rising middle class. Every American and European designer and department store is opening in India. Indian designers would do well to be very involved in this expansion." Says designer Ashish Soni, who's showing in New York immediately after the WIFW, vehemently: "Designers must know their targets. Quality consciousness is a must at the global level. Perhaps, it would be better if we had shorter fashion weeks, with the cream of Indian designers showing their best creations, rather than showcasing average lines that put off the buyers." Rathi Vinay Jha, director-general, Fashion Design Council of India (FDCI), organiser of the WIFW, says that the industry will only grow exponentially in India. "In terms of exports, growth will be comparatively less. But the demands of the diaspora market and the Middle East will build up and have a positive impact," she clarifies. Adds designer JJ Valaya, "Today, for any Indian designer, both domestic and international presence is important. The importance lies in creatively channeling our rich heritage of designs." That said, the fashion industry has been showing signs of change in the last three years. Chopra points at two major indicators: the manifold increase in the number of designers entering the fashion arena and the number of fashion weeks (four in a year at least). So, is there an overkill? "Of course," says Pradip Hirani of Kimaya, a fashion week regular and big buyer. "This phenomenon will even out. The newness is still to wear off, though." There's also a change in the mindset. An independent research company, Indica Research, conducted a survey two months ago amongst a 'relevant and sizeable sample' in the four metros (Mumbai, Delhi, Kolkata and Chennai) and found that 68 per cent were aware of a fashion week in the country. The top of mind recall as far as designers are concerned were of Manish Malhotra (33 per cent) and Ritu Beri (27 per cent) followed by Ritu Kumar (11 per cent), Sabyasachi Mukherjee (6 per cent) and Rohit Bal (5 per cent). As much as 37% recalled the designer garments displayed by the models on the ramps and an unbelievable 68% were aware of the venue of a fashion week. Also, this is the first year that India is having separate Autumn/Winter and Spring/Summer shows. "Designers across India needed a platform to show Spring-Summer collections and buyers in India and abroad had given us positive feedback about this decision," says Jha. Will's Autumn/Winter show in April this year, which many opined had come too late in the day as most buyers had exhausted budgets, nevertheless saw about 90 domestic and over 70 international buyers, which is an indication that the global fashion fraternity is taking Indian fashion more seriously. As Soni says, this is too soon to judge India's place in the global market. By 2010, Soni has plans to have as many as 100 stores in his brand name globally. Given the pace at which fashion is growing in India, that may actually turn true sooner than later. – Sudipta Datta,
Sulekha Nair, Jyoti Verma & Suman Tarafdar for Financial Express
Deepak Perwani shoots off the mouth In a televised interview with
Munib Nawaz, Deepak Perwani literally shot from the hip about what he
Mohsin Sayeed adds fuel to fire
Paint it red When has red lipstick not been stylish? This is probably one style that is a universal classic and is never out of fashion. But not many women are comfortable wearing it as supposedly red lipstick is considered very hard to carry. Where there might be some truth in that, it is not entirely the case. One just needs to be a little careful about how they wear it and with what. The lighter the skin, the
stronger the shade looks, but that doesn't mean dark shaded women can't Also try to keep the other make-up to a minimum. Go light on the eyes and the blush, otherwise you'll risk looking like a clown or worse. Here's how to do it: Skip the eyeliner and go only for mascara (black please), dust your face with powder and your cheeks with a soft blush. Always line your lips before applying color, making sure both blend in. Having those perfect red lips really is simple and fun. Not to mention all the attention it will grab for you. And if you are very daring, then match that lipstick with red nails and look fabulous!
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