karachicharacter
Master of his life!
By Samia Saleem
Muhammad Shahbaz Hanif is a tailor in the famous Qurtaba market at Bahadurabad, and in a clothes happy season such as Eid, Kolachi could not but help but talk to Shahbaz about his life, and the madness that is unleashed upon tailors right before Eid! He is 27 years old, and although his family hails from Bahawalpur, Punjab, he has been living in Karachi since he was born. Years of hard work and precision have truly made him a master of his profession!

Karachi brings images of a city lit up by a million lights, beckoning everyone towards it with promises of advancement, a better, and to some, a more exciting life. The city holds a special place in Pakistani hearts as it is the birthplace, as well as the burial place of the Quaid.

Spread over 61 acres of land, in the middle of a city full of people and sound, the mausoleum of the founder of Pakistan is an iconic symbol of the country. The tomb as we see it today was not designed on the very first day. Ayub Khan, the first Pakistani military general to seize power through a coup, laid the foundation of the mausoleum in 1960, but this beautiful piece of architecture was completed in 1969, during Yahya Khan's regime.

The mausoleum is made of white marble with curved Moorish arches and copper grills resting on an elevated 54 square meters platform. The cool inner sanctum reflects the green of a four-tiered crystal chandelier gifted by the people of China. The park around the mausoleum is fitted with strong beamed spot-lights which at night project light on the white mausoleum and doubled the beauty of it. The location of the tomb is calm and tranquil which is significant considering that it is in the heart of one of the largest global megalopolises. The glowing tomb can be seen from miles away at night.

The mausoleum is not just a burial chamber, and apart from having become a cultural icon identifying Karachi, it has historical value as well; the mausoleum premises house a museum displaying the Quaid's belongings.

Quaid-e-Azam's mausoleum has also become a place to hang out for Karachiites. Deputy Project Director, Riaz Ahmed says, "More than 25,000 people visit the place daily in order to greet the Quaid, enjoy the fresh air and entertain themselves in the huge garden which surrounds the burial chamber."

Every evening the lush green lawns surrounding the pristinely smooth marble tomb are crowded with people; children make use of the wide open space to run about, while parents and families finally find a spot out in the open to breathe in some fresh air and lay back, or stretch their legs. The reason why the mazaar is such a popular spot to hang out for families is the fact that it is possibly one of the cheapest forms of entertainment available to Karachiites. Aijaz Ahsan, who was accompanied by the many children in his family, feels that the price is just right for low income groups with huge families, "the entry fee is just five rupees," he says, "which is very economical."

Aijaz Ahsan also pointed out that with such few parks in the city for children to play in; Bagh-e-Quaid provides not only a healthy, but safe environment for children to play in, as the area is protected by a boundary wall.

Quaid-e-Azam's mausoleum has always been touted as being in the 'heart of Karachi', and this is one of its greatest pulls for visitors. With travel time to every other recreational spot in the city doubling thanks to the heavy traffic, the roads to the mausoleum, though not light on traffic, are still close enough to every area in Karachi to be easily approachable.

Reasons for picking the Quaid's mazaar to visit run deeper than just 'to have fun.' As the country gains years, memories of the cause that led to the fight for a separate country dim, and younger generations especially feel removed from the struggle for independence. In a bid to put a personality to the stories, parents visit the mausoleum with their children to show them the Quaid's tomb. Mrs Sadia Razzaq, who is visiting from Lahore, says, "I've brought my children here to show them the tomb, before the visit, they had only read about the mausoleum in books or seen it on the television," the visit has proved fruitful, as, "it has coloured the picture in their minds."

The Quaid's belongings are showcased as memorials beside the tomb which are an addition in the visitors' attraction. These memorials were presented by the Quaid's sister, Shireen Bibi to the Commission of Enquiry for display purposes. The objects have been on display since 1984 after being tested for bacterial infections.

The museum greatly interests every one either above 60 years of age or below 10. The Quaid's cars, clothes, books, awards etc, seem to tell the story of his glorious life in different ways, including the stories of independence and the establishment of Pakistan.

Quaid-e-Azam's official and private cars, a 1947 Cadillac, and 1938 Packard transport people half a century back. It is through proper maintenance and devoted care that the cars look as if they have just been driven out of a showroom. The deputy director says that the place is cleaned on regular basis with proper care and concern.

Furniture used by Quaid-e-Azam is presented in a way that it looks as if it is still in use. A visitor, Shahid Jan, upon seeing the dining table set with beautiful blue china and silverware, as though for a formal dinner, comments, "It feels as though the food is ready and about to be served to the Quaid and his guests." A lion skin rug is placed between the dining and drawing room settings, which appeals greatly to children.

Fahad Khan, an aged visitor from Larkana, was deeply touched, as he viewed the display, "the furniture and other objects have been arranged to perfection and portray the discipline of the owners' life and personality." He observed that the atmosphere of the study has been designed such that it evokes a desire in visitors to just grab a book, sit down, and start reading!

The management is making more efforts to provide new facilities to visitors. An audio visual room is under construction and expected to be completed within two months. The audio visual room is the brain child of the Resident Engineer, Mohammad Arif. The project is costing about 17.5 million rupees and the room has the capacity to hold 150 people. The size of the screen in the audio visual room will be 10 feet by 30 feet.

Documentaries revolving around the Quaid's life, construction of the mausoleum, etc will be available for viewing by school children every day. Mohammad Arif says that schools will be invited to register themselves for the audio visual programs after its completion, through advertisements. It has also been planned that environmental lectures will be delivered to the students and they will later be asked to educate visitors about what they have learnt either verbally or through actions.

Apart from the emotional value the mausoleum holds for visitors, the green, shady lawns surrounding the tomb are a spot picked by many couples out on a date. However, these couples are mindful of where they are and behave modestly. Dating on the premises is discouraged by the management though and guards can often be seen issuing warnings to the young and in love.

Meticulous maintenance is visible across all 61 acres of mausoleum premises, further drawing visitors. One can not find even the thinnest layer of dust on any of the objects on display in the museum. "Maximum efforts are made to maintain the place in order to avoid giving visitors a single chance to criticize the place," says Riaz Ahmed.

"Routine cleaning is carried out daily, but thorough maintenance measures are taken every six months," adds Riaz Ahmed, "the furniture is polished, clothes cleaned and the show cases sprayed in order to achieve the most pleasing look."

In a reversal of roles, the management of the mausoleum has several complaints against the public. Riaz Ahmed says, "Despite strict checking, visitors spit paan and guthka all over the place, chewing gum and paan are very difficult to clean but visitors are not concerned about this."

Riaz adds that the fountain gets so polluted within two days of cleaning that the base cannot be seen.

However, the development of the mausoleum doesn't just end here. "A number of other projects are in the pipeline which include a freedom movement museum, a central library and an auditorium," Resident Engineer Mohammad Arif tells Kolachi.

Quaide-e-Azam's mausoleum is a permanent landmark and monument in Karachi, but as is often quoted, there is nothing permanent but change. The well maintained and currently progressing mausoleum is a spark of hope for educating the masses about important historic and civic facts, and it seems that it will keep evolving, and along with it, will encourage the people who visit to constantly evolve as well.

Sindh is a province that has been neglected in several aspects. Not only has the potential of its natural resources not been fully realized, it has often been looted of some of the resources which are necessary for sustenance. However, one of the things that have been grossly unrecognized, is Sindh's rich cultural heritage, as a result of which much of it has fallen to decay. The archaeology department has allowed a number of historic monuments and buildings under its control to be reduced to rubble, convicting themselves of the crime of incompetence.

The tomb of the founder of Hyderabad and the Kalhoro dynasty, Ghulam Shah Kalhoro bears testimony to this incompetence and negligence. The tomb lies dilapidated; maintenance has not been carried out since 1987. Even when it had been, it wasn't done properly.

The Kalhoro capital was originally Khuda Abad in District Dadu and was shifted to the then Neron Kot, becoming its capital, later renamed after the Kalhoro dynasty as Hyderabad. The tomb is situated inside a complex (a boundary made up of bricks), Kalhoro colony near central prison in Hyderabad and was built by Sarfaraz Khan Kalhoro, son of Ghulam Shah Kalhoro, who initiated its construction in 1758 and completed in 1772. But the British rulers, who had destroyed hundreds of monuments after defeating the Mirs at Miani in 1943, destroyed its dome in their wrath. Some historians theorize that the British demolished the dome in search of treasure, as it was rumoured that gold ornaments were hidden in it, while others says that they had burnt the tomb therefore the appearance of the dome is charred.

The tomb was constructed of thin slabs of perforated stones and pillars at intervals. Its surface is made up of medallions and panel bands and according to archeological papers; it is in "fair condition". However, the apparent truth is quite different from this analysis. the tiles on the tomb are crumbling off, while the outer walls of graves of khalifas of Ghulam Shah Kalhoro, located in same premises situated on one acre piece of land, are falling apart.

Birds have built their nests inside the tomb, and its walls, already covered in spider webs have countless lizards creeping across them. As there is no artificial light available, the tomb looks rather creepy at night. Apart from suffering the messiness, visitors are also not provided with drinking water at the premises.

"The tiles and paintings in the tomb bear purely Islamic Art from the 17th century," Waheeda Bano Baloch, lecturer at the Institute of Arts and Design of Sindh University, tells Kolachi. She further says that monuments in Sindh are facing decay because the quarters concerned don't pay any attention to it, and added that while artists do foresee problems concerning the longevity of their art, maintaining such sites is the responsibility of the government.

These factors seem to have kept visitors away from the shrine of the founder of Hyderabad, while it also fails to grab the attention of citizens as it is at quite a distance from the city center.

Visitors include common people, tourists and also those who believe in the myths surrounding the tomb. The tomb is also popularly known as the tomb of machi waale baba. Before and after prayers and mannats are made at the tomb, visitors pay their respects in the form of fish and bread.

One devotee says that she had been declared infertile but after visiting and praying at the tomb of Ghulam Shah Kalhoro to regain her fertility, she gave birth to a baby, and she had returned to show her gratitude by offering fish and bread to the tomb.

"The government should take care of such important and sacred places, it has funds to develop the city, but why doesn't it have funds to maintain the tomb of the city's founder?" questions one visitor.

The provincial archaeology department shakes off the accusation, claiming that it had communicated with federal government time and again for provision of budget to renovate the tomb, but so far no funds have been released.

According to an official of the archeology department, the government allocated meager annual funds to preservation of historical sites, and it is very hard to maintain these sites within the given budget.

The mother of the tomb's curator, who lives on tomb premises, says that regular devotees are few and far between, and there are times when nobody visits for months. The authorities, she says, barely pay any attention to the tomb's condition, but do make the perfunctory monthly visit.

A resident of the area tells Kolachi that hardly anybody visits the site, and not many people are aware of the fact that the father of the city rests here. This lack of awareness is because these facts have not been recorded in books, and the authorities do not take steps to create historical awareness and interest. The provincial government had sought permission from the archaeology department to hand over many such heritage sites to the culture department, but the federal government has not taken any decision thus far, as this matter is not of priority.

But despite the dilapidated condition of the tomb, there is hope that the foundation of the tomb is still strong enough to survive for yet another 300 years, that is, if its provided with better conservation and preservation.

"There is a dire need to carry out a study within the entire complex. According to my observation, salinity is a major issue that might affect the durability of the tomb; and chemical as well as other analyses must be undertaken," says Professor Mukhtar Kazi, founding chairman of the Archaeology and Anthropology Department of Sindh University.

He told Kolachi after paying a visit to the tomb, that preservation and renovation of the tomb should be carried out at the earliest opportunity, and that there are skilled people available to get the job done.

He said that weather conditions are also affecting the tomb. Rainwater drips directly into the tomb from the ceiling, and there is no provision of drainage inside.

"Though our department has just been established recently, we will certainly conduct studies and propose a project to make this place more attractive for tourism, as well as preserving it for future generations," promises Professor Kazi.

Monuments such as the tomb of Ghulam Shah Kalhoro are considered part of the national identity, but it is sad to note that even the signboard indicating the tomb is in as bad a shape as the centuries old tomb. District Government Hyderabad has allocated some funds for the repairing of ancient and historic monuments. However, the amount allocated is quite mean, and needs to be increased in line with the demand of district council that has unanimously called for maintenance of historical monuments at the earliest.

The tomb of the founder of Hyderabad is not just a national monument, but a treasure in terms of art and architecture. Letting it fall to pieces simply out of apathy is a complete shame, and with so many competent people eager to jump on board to preserve it, there is no reason to further delay the preservation of this historical site and several other like it across the country.

The street I live in is neatly sandwiched between two of the most frequented shopping areas in Karachi. When we had first moved here, it was a relatively barren street with a convenience store down the road, a ceramic tiles shop and a bridal outfits shop. The view from our balcony too was unfettered by anything and on any given day one could look out onto the Clifton Bridge, and enjoy the azure sky, gold hued sunlight and the softly salty breeze that defines Karachi weather.

As the years wore on, the street became a prime target for businesses big and small; the convenience store was replaced by a bigger, glitzier supermarket, an upscale shoe store opened on one end while the bridal shop expanded. The most popular mall in the area started expanding vertically, cruelly slicing the bridge out of sight. As with many construction projects in the city, the construction of this building got severely delayed, and for nine odd years, all one could see was a dreary concrete structure covered shoddily in green cloth.

Suffice it to say, with so many shops involving clothes, shoes and accessories in one area, it became a favourite amongst eager shoppers. And somehow that eagerness doubles, triples and quadruples during Ramadan. The ladies all break out their sturdiest shoes, (all the better for marathon shopping), biggest handbags, (to tuck under their arms away from pickpockets peppering the malls), and best bargaining skills to win the annual race against time: shopping for clothes and getting them to the tailors way before Eid.

Like most shopping districts in the city, this one isn't exactly well planned either. In fact it would be fairest to say that the least amount of thought has gone into taking into consideration the fact that these malls and shops are the honey to every woman's Pooh. Hence, as Eid draws closer, cars, mini vans, taxis and rickshaws from every corner of Karachi zoom into the area, and find that the only viable place to park in, is my street.

Walking to the mall can be a pretty enriching experience in itself. The streets leading up to it had been dug out for two years, but now have been rebuilt and re-carpeted, with a newly installed drainage system, which may I add, actually works. The brutal, cyclonic rains earlier this year had almost no effect on the area, which for once did not remain flooded for weeks.

City planners might never have foreseen the unexpected popularity of this area, but smart corporate brains quickly registered it and anticipated further glory. Thus two fast food chains opened up across from each other on the street, to bask in the reflected glory and shoppers at the malls.

It was then that things went absolutely berserk. Previously hesitant mothers now had a place to leave their children in as they haggled and spent to their heart's content. Those who did not want to do that could drag their kids along on their expeditions, dangling the promise of burgers after the ordeal in front of them.

With Eid right around the corner, frenetic shoppers flow in and out of the area from noon to well past midnight. Trying to get to my own house takes 30 minutes longer than it normally would, and I often find myself wishing I lived somewhere else.

But humans are creatures of habit, and Eid would not be the same if this constant flow of strangers didn't invade our space every year. Neither would it seem as special minus all the festivities that suddenly erupt in the area during the last ten days of Ramadan. The normally busy, noisy street and adjoining areas become busier and noisier still. The entire area is festooned with fairy lights soap bubbles dance against a starry, yet somehow murky sky, and the fast food geniuses bring out their play pens which can be seen rollicking from side to side from a distance. From that distance, as a child, I found the street look like something out of an urban fairy tale.

As the years have gone by, street that I live in and the areas surrounding in have evolved. The green cloaked building now houses a school of fashion design, an old building has been taken down and a brand new mall is being erected in its place, new faces are walking alongside the old, and one can't help but bow down to the law of change.

The area is growing up, as is the rest of the city. The children walking the streets are wiser and more aware than ever before. Everyone knows that the winds of change blowing across the country will touch their lives, and perhaps ruffle their feathers too.

With this chaotic Karachi year almost ending, the sense of being part of something bigger than oneself is rife. However, neither the change, nor the suddenly more obvious sense of unity amongst absolute strangers seems to be a bad thing. The times we are living through, are strange, scary, but exciting. And suddenly, knowing that there are ties that bind us all permanently make the area I live in seem a small, but still significant part of the mechanism running with the country.

On any normal day this area cannot be described as ordinary. There are the constant shoppers and hawkers crowding the narrow lanes around it, speaking in multiple languages. There is the smell of freshly baked corn mingling with that of a burst sewage line. There is the permanent flow of bodies that never recedes and even at its very worst, this street looks, smells and sounds like home.

By Samia Saleem

Muhammad Shahbaz Hanif is a tailor in the famous Qurtaba market at Bahadurabad, and in a clothes happy season such as Eid, Kolachi could not but help but talk to Shahbaz about his life, and the madness that is unleashed upon tailors right before Eid! He is 27 years old, and although his family hails from Bahawalpur, Punjab, he has been living in Karachi since he was born. Years of hard work and precision have truly made him a master of his profession!

Kolachi: Since when has your family lived in Karachi?

Shahbaz: My family has lived in Karachi for a long time, after my father moved here, he used to work as an engineer.

Kolachi: Why did your family move to Karachi?

Shahbaz: They moved to Karachi because it was growing fast and was considered a big city, having all the resources to support a prosperous living, even decades ago.

Kolachi: Since when have you been working?

Shahbaz: I have been working as a tailor master for the last ten years.

Kolachi: This is not your father's profession, how did you take it up?

Shahbaz: It was my own wish to learn this work; I realized it was both respectable and profitable to work as a tailor.

Kolachi: Whom did you learn it from? Was it easy or difficult to learn?

Shahbaz: I spent about four years of my life in Bahawalpur and it was there that I learnt this skill. Yes, initially it was very difficult not only to learn but also to settle in work, but with time I grew to know more and established myself. Now I think I am experienced enough to sew and design any kind of clothes.

Kolachi: Are you happy with your choice of profession?

Shahbaz: Yes, this is what I chose to be; and since I do my work well, my customers don't complain, plus I earn a good living with it, I am happy.

Kolachi: Are the earnings enough to support your family properly?

Shahbaz: In a profession as this there is not much profit now, but Alhamdulillah I earn well enough to meet all the needs of my family.

Kolachi: Tailors are the "most wanted" workforce in Ramadan, so tell us how the Eid season is for you?

Shahbaz: The Eid season is really tough. The workload and demands of people increases tenfold and we work from afternoon till sehri to get done with the heaps of work we are given

Kolachi: What kind of customers do you get?

Shahbaz: The customers here are really demanding, they want us to replicate designer clothes and produce all kinds of 'mod con' dresses. This is not so with the customers in other cities, otherwise by nature, the people here are really good.

Kolachi: Your shop is in a busy reputed bazaar, where there are many others like you offering the same services; does it affect your work?

Shahbaz: No not at all, everyone here has his own customers and we don't woo each other's customers, all the shopkeepers are friends here, and we have no competition or envy amongst ourselves.

Kolachi: Do you have any complaints against the customers?

Shahbaz: Well they are good, but sometimes they become too noisy about slight differences in stitching. They should try to understand that we try our best to give them exactly what they have asked for; and if by error we make some mistake, it may be because of some misunderstanding. We always rectify our mistakes for them but they get irritable and fussy about it. Sometimes they bring less than the required amount of cloth for sewing, and we have to work against the clock to produce what they want. Still at times they disregard our feelings.

Kolachi: What is your motto for work?

Shahbaz: I take only as much of work as I can do and try to satisfy my customers to the utmost. I never overload myself otherwise the quality of my work would be affected and my customers would complain. I take care of my customers and thus have happy customer relations.

Kolachi: Having lived in Karachi for almost all your life, what are the difficulties that you face here?

Shahbaz: Since we work with machines, electricity is a big problem because load shedding delays our work; and traffic off course is the principal dilemma of every Karachiite.

Kolachi: What do you like best about Karachi?

Shahbaz: I like my work the most, and the people of Karachi. It is my work and family here that makes Karachi special to me.

The beautifully outfitted maidens in Karachi extract many compliments from people, and it is to the skillful wand of tailors such as Shahbaz that we owe this credit!

Like many Karachiites, he does not ride life like a roller coaster. Having lived almost all his life here, he does not find life too fast or too tough in the city of lights. Karachi to him is his first home, and the land of rewards for those who work hard; and such is the life of this Karachi character!