Pakistan, at one point, was a dream destination for global tourism industry. After September 11, 2001, it all changed. Many tour operators have gone out of business. The porters and guides in Hunza have switched to other professions. The so-called war on terror, as if war was not terror, has cost the country more than the currency that international tourists bring for spending here. The real loss is the absence of encounters between many cultures of the world that used to take place in Nathiagali, Naran, Gilgit and Baltistan. The locals used to love to host the foreign tourists and liked the democratic, non-hierarchical approach of those who came from those societies where the domestic servants and serfs had disappeared. That kind of everyday people-to-people contact, with its syncretising influence on local customs, is gone now.

This special report is an attempt to revive the dwindling tourism industry by inspiring the local tourists to explore the places that deserve a visit. Local syncretism, the mixture of the Hindko-Pakhtun culture of Naran with the ways of life of the tourists from Lahore or Karachi, is a very feasible option for reducing the ethnic tensions in the country.

With the hope of encouraging an indigenous revival of conviviality, we asked our contributors to write about the places they are familiar with. The footprint of these writings stretches from Gawadar to Deosai plains but still there are many attractive places, some familiar others off-the-beaten-track, which we have not been able to explore here.

Sadly, there are many attractive destinations which are beyond the reach of ordinary Pakistanis because of the conflict between the promoters of informal violence and the armed forces trying to establish the writ of the present democratic government. Hopefully, when peace is restored, it will be possible to write on Mingora, Buner, Waziristan and other places.

We also hope that the IDPs are rehabilitated as soon as possible so that there is a possibility of people-to-people contact in the war-torn areas. Only people-to-people contact, conviviality, feasts and celebration will be able to bring sustainable peace in the country.

The local wonder list

Why not head towards the south-west of the country this summer and discover a relatively hidden tourist heaven? Yes, I mean Gwadar! Having derived its name from 'Gwa' (gushing winds) and 'Dar' (door), this coastal town -- apty called the gateway to winds -- provides the tourists with a unique opportunity to make the best use of their vacations.

So far the tourists would opt to travel upcountry for the ease of it and the colder weather there. They would simply reject the idea of braving the rugged terrains along the Makran coast and being exposed to the tropical heat associated with this long stretch of land. Besides, hardly anyone would even consider taking up this journey as the very name of the town remained unheard of for ages. But thanks to the hype created by the previous government and the lucrative deals offered by real estate developers, Gwadar caught great public attention. Besides, the construction of Makran Coastal Highway by Frontier Works Organisation (FWO) brought the travel time from Karachi to Gwadar down to 10 hours from 48 hours. Though Pakistan International Airlines operates flights from Karachi, Quetta, Panjgur, Turbat and Muscat to Gwadar, it's the town's accessibility by road that's making it a popular destination among the masses.

So, one can fly to Gwadar by air or travel by road along the scenic coastal highway. Having tried both, I would suggest others to travel by road as there's more fun and adventure en route to Gwadar and less once you are there. People from Balochistan can use other routes but those coming from upcountry can have a short stay in Karachi and then embark on this journey westwards. This also holds for the Karachiites.

One can rent a car, van or a coaster for this journey depending on the number of passengers and their affordability. Buses also leave from the Hub area and charge up to Rs 1,000 per passenger.

On your way to Gwadar, you can see sprawling deserts, awesome rock structures built by erosion, rivers and streams, seawater along the 600-km coast in shades of blue, Buzi Pass, mud volcanoes, Hingol national park and what not. Brief stops at Pasni and Ormara can help you stretch a bit and fill your lungs with fresh air.

Once in Gwadar, you can stay at a place of your choice. This again depends on your affordability. It can be Zaver Pearl Continental, a rest house or even a manji hotel. Even the PC Hotel offers good rates, mainly due to low-occupancy and the 40-year tax holiday announced for the town. Gwadar Tourist Motel offers double bedrooms for as low as Rs 1000 per night and an additional bed for Rs 100 only.

One can buy Iranian products, canned food and many other smuggled goods from local bazaars. People here prefer Iranian food as it's pure and reaches early through the border with Iran which is hardly 70 kilometres away. Gwadar offers one of the world's best quality fresh seafood, especially shrimps. It would be criminal for one to be there and not to satiate one's taste buds with these gifts of the ocean.

Activites in Gwadar may range from water sports, scuba diving, riding motor boats and scooters, desert safari, viewing sun-rise and set at Jiwani (a place close-by), visiting the fishing harbour and hanging out at the beach.

-- Shahzada Irfan Ahmed

Keenjhar Lake in Thatta district, attracts hundreds of people from Karachi -- students of different universities and colleges and a large number of local families -- who love to enjoy a holiday or a weekend at this lovely site in the culturally rich Sindh. The government plans to supplement the Lake with a recreational park spread over a 100-acre land, a few three-star motels and other facilities for picnickers. A floating hut is also on the agenda.

Other tourist attractions include Badshahi Masjid Thatta, constructed by the Mughul emperor Shah Jahan; Makli graveyard, Haleji Lake, Bhambhor, Gharo Filter Plant, and some other recently discovered archeological sites such as Moomal Jee Mari, Humayun Dero, where Mughal emperor Humayun stayed for sometime and Kala Kote (Fort) near the Keenjhar Lake.

There is a national highway that links Keenjhar Lake with all the historical places. Public transport from Karachi to Thatta and from Thatta town to Hyderabad is available till late night. Keenjhar has a variety of huts managed by the Sindh Tourism Development Corporation (STDC), a VIP Rest House by Sindh Irrigation Department, and a community centre built by Sindh Inland Fisheries.

At Keenjhar Lake you can have a variety of food items on order -- made from fresh water fish and vegetables. For this Noori restaurant is the most popular with the visitors.

Bhambhor is another interesting place along the Arabian Sea at the national highway right before Thatta. The very famous folktale of Sassi-Punhoon belongs to this very place. People who are aware of this come to the ruins, where an infant Sassi is said to have been put in a closed box and set adrift on the sea. She was found by the dhobi named Muhammad.

-- Jan Khaskheli

On Sundays, Karachi's Khayaban-e-Ittehad that connects much of the city with the Clifton beach is a picture of gaiety. Young motorcyclists are performing acrobatic feats such as lying reverse on running bikes or driving on one wheel as they head towards the Sea. Rental pick-ups laden with joint family cargo are also seen rushing up. Karachi Sea now categorically belongs to the masses. It is the answer to all their frustrations. The Karachi middle class looks forward to the sea to relieve the stresses of life.

The sea front at Clifton is now much developed. The portion before Seaview apartments is now flood-lit and the nearby Ibn-Qasim park adds to the setting. However, the upper class for some odd reason has shunned the sea except for the occasional visits to Hawksbay or the French Beach. They have turned to other places like high-street shopping at Zamzama or bowling alleys and cineplexes. Karachi is wholesome and takes care of all sections of society. The shopping malls such as Forum, Park Towers and Dolmen Mall have given a new dimension to the city shopping environment. These malls, though not as mega in size as some of the Dubai malls, have become a way of life with many Karachiites. They offer everything from food courts to exhibitions and are indeed the happening places almost seven days a week.

These days Karachi is very much about flyovers and parks too. It has become a more convenient city to travel than what was thought some five years back. The art scene is getting better by the day. Ever since NAPA came into existence, the Arts Council has started to regularly present quality plays at its aesthetically built new theatre. Despite the overall law and order situation in the country, the plays run to packed houses.

Karachi is vibrant since its people always have the heart to lift themselves up after every gloom. Like the Lahoris, the Karachiites love to eat and have fun. Food streets at Burns road and Clifton are flooded especially over the weekend. People give worth to their Sea and even enjoy their stock exchange.

It is this spirit that carries Karachi forward despite the everyday bolts of lightning.

-- Haroon Khalid

The provincial capital of Balochistan may have received some bad press for certain unfortunate incidents, but the city still retains its pristine beauty and tranquil peace, what with its beautiful lakes, a rich cultural heritage and the wonders of nature bestowed upon it.

One can travel to the city by rail, road or air. If you want to see some beautiful scenery on your way, then train is the way to go, with direct routes via Rawalpindi, Peshawar, Karachi and Lahore. On the other hand, if you want it short and simple, travel by air. Quetta Airport has the added advantage of being only 15 minutes' drive from the city centre, so finding your way around is a cinch.

Upon arriving, you will be swarmed by offerings of taxis and bookings. But it's best not to believe the hype, so arrange a taxi yourself to the hotel of your choice.

If you are on a budget, then the best option is Shees Hotel, which is at M A Jinnah Road. It is centrally located, so it's a great place to drop anchor and travel around. The rooms are a good value, and the service is quite helpful. Another good option is Armani Hotel on Airport Road. On the other hand, if splurging is the name of the game, look no further. Serena Hotel Quetta is the main 4-star in the city, and much more!

Once you are ready to travel, opt for walking, since the city centre is small, and every step of the way there are dazzling sights, with a mountainous backdrop on all sides. Most sights can easily be seen in a day, including the famous Archeological Museum of Balochistan, and the city's well-known bazaars, where you can get anything from marble to electronic goods to Russian and Afghan handicrafts to fine carpets. They are also the best places for some great traditional foods. The stuff to try is the local tea, which you can get from old quaint shops in the bazaar, as well as Sajji, which is an absolute must. Try it out from Lehri Sajji House at Jinnah Road, and your trip is paid for already. Also try Mir Afzal Karahi and Khadi Kabab.

However, Quetta's finest sights are a few kilometres away from the city itself. Among the places to visit is the Urak Valley, situated just 20 kilometres away, and the fruit basket of the region, known for its scenic beauty and abundance of fresh succulent fruits.

A little further is Pishin Valley, known for its heavenly lake Bund Khushdil Khan, as well as its famous orchards.

However, the place to be is, undoubtedly, Ziarat. It's about 3 hours away from Quetta, and a sight to behold. With rows of beautiful Juniper trees and evergreen slopes, Ziarat is an ideal summer retreat, with tranquillity inundating your senses.

Another great destination is the Bolan Pass. It would be a tragedy to visit Quetta and not try the famed train ride through the mountains of the Pass.

-- Usman Zafar

Late mornings turn dark gray, the sun obliterated in choking slit of dust. The temperature plummets, air sodden. A downdraft sweeps dust in small edifying spires. That's how you know you've arrived in Multan: the city of saints, striated by the excess of heat and the blinding brilliance of the sky. Time is meted-out in spiritual incantations, as reverent history lines the streets of the walled city. History and spirituality are spliced together here in a synecdoche: the attenuating compression of culture into a palimpsest.

In the 4000 years of its existence, Multan fell to Alexander the Great; gave birth to Sanskrit Rig-Veda; boasted the magnificent Shiva temple; and became the first town of Punjab to be captured by Mohammed bin Qasim. Under the Mughals it became renowned for its architecture, ceramics, music and artistry. And while little remains of the ancient city, the esoteric charm of immersion still abounds its shrines. From the iconographic blue-tiled tomb of Shah Yousaf Gardezi, to the splendid domed mausoleum of Shah Rukn-e-Alam; from one of the oldest Sawi mosque to the washed-away Jamia mosque (built on the orders of Muhammad bin Qasim); from the Sun temple to the defunct Prahladpuri temple; Multan is a litany of spiritual urbanisation.

Almost a hundred kilometre south is the city of Bahawalpur. Formerly a princely state, its architectural history is adequately preserved in gated developments of its magnificent darbars and mahals. From Bahawalpur Museum to the Central Library (second largest in Punjab), from Darbar mahal to Dubai palace, the city is rich in indigenous culture, with the bustles of the bazaars giving it sonorous appeal. The place is almost surreal; an anachronism in the world of television, a vestige of the cultural ideal of a small-town stolid drawl. But if the city seems limiting in it area, hop off to some of the remarkable sights that are close by, where you can take in history and nature.

Flanked to the south is Lal Suhanra National Park -- one of its kind in the country due to its proximity. A little off to south-west lies Ahmadpur East. Once the state headquarter, it hosts the Sadiqgarh palace known for its innervating locale dubbed the Sleeping Beauty castle. To the west (some 75 km) is the town of Uch, with its solemn tombs rended with time. Sprawled beyond is the majestic Cholistan desert. In the heart of it lies the famous thirteenth century Derawar Fort: a silent metaphor of the somnambulistic distance you have to go to get away from the din of the city. A nocturnal drive across the desert lends a Blakian evocation of mood, where fireflies light up the skies like a twinkling semaphore. And as Baudrillard said of the deserts, "Nothing is further from pure travelling than tourism or holiday travel. That is why it is best done in the extensive banality of deserts … not at any stage regarded as places of pleasure or culture, but seen televisually as scenery, as scenarios. It is not the discovery of local customs that counts, but discovering the immorality of the space you have to travel through… It is this, together with the sheer distance, and the deliverance from the social, that count.

-- Hassan S. Gardezi

The Empress of Mughal India, Noor Jehan, once said of Lahore: "I have purchased Lahore with my life. By giving my life for Lahore actually I have purchased another Paradise."

If this is what one monarch had to say about the city nearly four centuries ago, one can imagine the intrigue tourists might have in today's day and age of revisiting old treasures.

The best part about Lahore is that it offers relics, preserved and un-preserved, in old Lahore, while offering visitors new types of experiences in the recently developed areas.

A visit to Lahore entails at least a basic understanding of Punjabi culture. In other words, food is everything, and everything is food. Beef up on all medicines that deal with the ailments of the digestive tract and set forth for the various food streets, first and foremost, the one in Gawalmandi. This is a street closed off at both ends where various vendors have set up stalls for everything from fried fish to kheer (rice pudding). If the food on this street doesn't suit your palette, head over to the food street on M M Alam Road in Gulberg. Higher end restaurants might be easier on your stomach, but not on your wallet!

While food might be an integral part of just about everything in Lahore, spare some time and energy for the numerous historic monuments. Start your day at the Shalimar Gardens, a relic of the city's Mughal rule, where fountains and streams flow along sandstone and marble lined paths, cooling not only the ground, but also the residents of the adjacent areas. Truly ahead of its time, the gardens are evocative of the Mughal Empire's splendour. Continue on to Anarkali Bazaar, where not only will you get lost in the alleyways of the huge market (and end up spending a fortune!), but you will also be charmed by Anarkali's mythical tale and perhaps consider a visit to Lahore Fort and Badshahi Masjid. For several generations, the Masjid was the largest in the world and the Fort protected the city from invading marauders. End the day with a meal at nearby Cuckoo's Den where you can learn who today's residents of the diamond district trace their lineage to while savouring food from the days of the Mughals.

-- Zeeshan Suhail

The environs of Kallar Kahar offer an excellent setting for an instant dose of vacationing experience. The denizens of Lahore or Islamabad, for instance, can easily organise day trips as it is about 250 kilometres from the former and 100 kms from the latter. When approaching Kallar Kahar via the M2 motorway, one has to be wary of the exit just as the highway skirts the local lake. Within a few minutes, after encircling the lake half way, the travelling party should arrive at the gangway for accessing the lake. The venue offers facilities for taking boat rides, either in motorised fashion or self-paddling, whilst taking in the splendid views of the surrounding hilly terrain.

Having had one's fill of boating and camel rides (yes, they have that too!) the holiday makers can head off to immerse themselves in a national heritage site that not only promises a history lesson but also manmade wonders. As one makes his way towards the city of Choa Saiden Shah, the road passes right through the Katas Raj temples that have been around for an entire millennium. Besides the fascinating carvings on the walls of the various structures, the highlight of the temple complex is the deep blue pool in the midst. What makes it more alluring is the myth attached to it that explains their creation. As the story goes, the Hindu deity Shiva wept so profusely over the death of his wife Satti that his tears formed two pools, one at Pushkara in Ajmer and the other at Ketaksha, hence the name Katas.

If the accompanying family members (if any) on this trip insist on staying the night as they are too tired or want to go boating again the next day, they have the option of staying in the TDCP resort that overlooks the Kallar Kahar lake right above the boating venue. The rates vary from Rs 1300 to Rs 2,700 a night.

-- Aziz Omar

The largest dams in Pakistan, Tarbela and Mangla offer spectacular scenic views and an overall scale and ambience that overwhelms your senses. Tarbela dam is located upon the Indus River a hundred or so odd kilometres eastwards from Rawalpindi. One has to travel along the GT road or N5 motorway that is going towards Peshawar via Hassan Abdal. Upon reaching the offshoot towards the left for the city of Attock, one has to keep on going for a few more kilometres on N5 and then take a turning on the right on the Tarbela road. After travelling for about 15 km along the Ghazi Barotha feeder canal, the road crosses it and joins the road coming from Hazro and Ghorghusti and leads towards Ghazi. Right before crossing the Indus River, a secondary road snakes off towards the right towards the actual dam and the grand reservoir. The surrounding imagery is quite picturesque and the tourists even have the option of dining on freshly caught masher and rao fish in one Abbassin restaurant on a hill overlooking the secondary reservoir.

Mangla Dam is accessible via an offshoot of the N5 GT road at Dina, about 20 km after the Jhelum River crossing en route to Islamabad. After travelling for about 16 km, one reaches the town of Mangla after which the dam takes its name. Going up the winding road, a whole panorama assaults the traveller. Upon arriving right up against the reservoir embankment, one has the choice of heading towards the boating club on the right or heading up to the Mangla lake view resort. Apart from the public picnicking spot on top of the hill, there is a very exclusive residential colony in construction that promises abodes a la exotic architecture such as Spanish and Marrakesh.

However, just one oversight can ruin the entire visits to both of these places. One has to have acquired a permit beforehand from the WAPDA Public Relations officer in charge of Tarbela and Mangla at Islamabad or Lahore.

-- A. Omar

Despite the recent violence in northern Pakistan, the nation's capital continues to reign supreme as Pakistan's newest tourism capital as well. How could one possibly go wrong by choosing Islamabad as a place to spend some much-needed time off when you have countless book stores, hills for hiking and numerous cafes and restaurants? Islamabad's climate is also much milder than that of its more southern Punjab cities and towns, adding more appeal for its prospective visitors.

Depending on the number of days you might have, a visit to the many bookstores in Jinnah Supermarket is a must. They are a popular haunt for Islamabad's thousands of readers as well as students. Take some time out for the various handicrafts and souvenir shops as well. Not only are they authentic, but are a great way to support local artists and merchants. A stroll in Saidpur Village affords the same opportunities, though in a traditional village setting, right in the middle of the city. For cultural activities, don't forget to visit the Pakistan National Council of Arts (PNCA). There's always something going on there, remarkably.

Contrary to public opinion, one does not need to go to the northern areas for athletic activities. Islamabad might not have ski slopes or steep mountains, but it definitely has the Trail 3 in Margalla Hills and the gigantic Fatima Jinnah Park. Morning or evening, hundreds of people take to the hills for a brisk walk, or a quick car drive to check out the scenic views of Islamabad. On a recent trip to Monal Restaurant (Shah Sharabeel and Kamran Lashari's brainchild), an exquisite eatery near the top of the hills at Pir Sohawa, I managed to see the pyramid-shaped Faisal Masjid, Rawal Lake and nearly all of Islamabad (something you can also do at Daman-e-Koh, 5 minutes before Pir Sohawa and a staple for all visitors to the city). While the electricity kept fading in and out, the moonlight shining on Rawal Lake provided more than enough light for the scrumptious food and plenty of fond memories that will keep me coming back to Islamabad.

-- Zeeshan S.

If you are sick of seeing the same faces all year round; if you need a break without becoming a recluse; if fun doesn't mean escape and, most importantly, if you hate peace -- Murree is where you should head to.

Incidentally, the Murree that our parents get nostalgic about died many years ago. It is not longer an elitist resort where families rented houses for months to escape the heat and rut of their lives back in the cities. It has becomes more of a popular spot with people from all corners of the country, literally. Many of your friends would advice you against it though. Reason: it is too cluttered, there are no hideouts, no sightseeing any more, and it has a very chichora (cheap) crowd. Incorrect. Murree still has many rest houses that come within the boundaries of the district yet without the noise and the humdrum -- that's the thing about mountains. Yes, people here come from everywhere but, then, what's the fun when you don't see 'real' people.

Murree has now become a city -- albeit full of mountains -- and it is the best place to stay if you want to see the adjoining places such as Patriata, the Galiats, Ayubia, Bhurban (and even Abbottabad and Kashmir) since all these places will be packed during the summer season. And that's what makes Murree crowded. Many prefer to make it their overnight stop and take off to -- of course -- Nathiagali, Jheeka Gali, Ghora Gali and even Mohra Sharif at about an hour's drive from Murree.

Finding a place to stay in Murree is not a problem if you are not an eleventh-hour person. From Rs 10,000 a night to Rs 1,500 a night, it is not tough. But, yes, finding a place in the outskirts of Murree is a little hard because they are costlier and booked many months earlier. And if money is not a problem, buying a flat in Murree could be a good investment.

Unlike far North, it is very easy to get to Murree. If you are in Islamabad, it's a piece of cake. There's the ever dependable Daewoo shuttle service that will take you straight to Murree's famous Sunny Bank stop from Islamabad and Rawalpindi.

-- Sarah Sikandar

Backpack your stuff, including your tent, and get on a bus to Islamabad, which will take four and a half hours. From there you board a bus to Mansehra that will cover the distance in about four hours. From Mansehra, a van or bus will drop you in Kaghan in less than three hours. You might feel like camping there for the night after having covered enough distance for a day's travel.

You can camp almost at any hotel that has a lawn. However, Pine Hotel or Green Hotel are tried and tested ones. There are no fixed rates for camping but it shouldn't be more than Rs 300 for a night this season.

You get up early and move on to Naraan, which is an hour from Kaghan by van. From there you track for the day to Malaka e Parbat base camp and set up your tent there. Apart from enjoying the beauty of the valley from a nomadic perspective at the base of high peaks, there are storytellers by the lake who can tell you about the legend of a prince and his love, only after you pay their fee. The inhabitants of these valleys are very tourist friendly. In fact, tourism is a major source of income for many. Every year, in summertime, these valleys see an influx of domestic and international tourists.

The next morning, hitchhike or get on a shared jeep back to Naraan and then to Babusar Pass, which is three to four hours by jeep from Naraan. These mountains are the footsteps of the Himalayas that boast the world's highest peaks.

Babusar Pass connects with Chilas further up north. If you happen to be there in August, then try not to miss the polo festival, where some of the teams from Shandoor compete with teams from the local valleys.

-- Naeem Safi

Coming up the road from Skardu in jeep it was pretty but not beautiful -- and then we rounded the curve above the tiny blue lake that sits at the edge of the Deosai plateau. We stopped; I got out and stood in wonder at the sheer jaw-dropping beauty of the sight before me. I had been living in Gilgit-Baltistan for several years, and was 'used' to the beauty of the area, but had never ventured across the Deosai. Friends and colleagues had talked about it, I had said 'yeah…yeah…one day…' and done nothing about it. Then I did on that sparkling day in June 1997 and it remains, twelve years later, one of my most memorable day-trips in Pakistan.

We took lunch by the lake, lying on a carpet of wild violets. Vast fields of flowers stretched on all sides, some fragrant. Butterflies were hither and thither. Fish broke the mirror of the surface of the water. The plateau is high…around 14,000 mostly, and you can feel the catch of 'thinness' in the air at the back of your throat. It is surrounded by mountains on all sides, home to bears and marmot and all manner of fish in the streams that criss-cross it. There is a single rough jeepeable track running between Astore and Skardu that is only open for five months of the year. The track crosses wide shallow streams, often without bridges and where they are bridged on planked suspended structures that have seen better days. You don't need to be especially fit to cross the Deosai, but you do need the spark of adventure in you. There are good hotels in both Skardu and Astore for those who like their comfort, and jeeps are easily hired. Deosai is truly the jewel in the crown -- one to do before you die.

-- Chris Cork